AHHH ive tried everything... still not running right

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  • Boosted E30
    replied
    Is this a known good engine?
    Did it run properly before the swap?
    Have you done a compression check to make sure all the cylinders are good?

    Leave a comment:


  • samiam3356
    replied
    Had this same thought this morning. Matt you do have a fpr in place since the obd2 rail doesn't have one?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.SWISS
    replied
    Originally posted by MattM
    Ok, i pulled the intake mani off, tightened up all hose clamps, and checked all the wiring again.. EVERYTHING WAS GOOD

    put it all back together and it ran no different(no surprise here)

    so then i started playing the the coil packs

    - all 6 have spark, checked each one.

    - if i unplug the 3 assumed dead ones, the engine runs the SAME

    - if i unplug the 3 assumed good ones, and have the dead ones plugged in, the engine RUNS THE SAME, and the other header gets hot.

    So now i am 99% sure its a fuel pressure problem... question is.. how do i tell if its the pump or the regulator??
    Are you running the obd2 rem fuel pressure reg or the obd1 rail vac regulator?

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  • MattM
    replied
    Ok, i pulled the intake mani off, tightened up all hose clamps, and checked all the wiring again.. EVERYTHING WAS GOOD

    put it all back together and it ran no different(no surprise here)

    so then i started playing the the coil packs

    - all 6 have spark, checked each one.

    - if i unplug the 3 assumed dead ones, the engine runs the SAME

    - if i unplug the 3 assumed good ones, and have the dead ones plugged in, the engine RUNS THE SAME, and the other header gets hot.

    So now i am 99% sure its a fuel pressure problem... question is.. how do i tell if its the pump or the regulator??

    Leave a comment:


  • MattM
    replied
    2) my engine did that when i had huge vaccuum leaks. Try to rev it to keep it from dying, after a minute or so, does it idle steady? If so, you messed up some hoses, check all. specially those connected to the Idle control valve. Hell that could be the cause. BTW, if you're running obd2, you can't just get another ecu.. you'll need key and ewsII module as you probably already know.

    No, it usually sputters out and stalls after i let off the throttle.


    3) Do you even get even firing or does it sound like a v-twin?

    its very uneven on the exhaust, i put my hand over the exhaust pipe and i can pretty much feel each cylinder fire.

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  • MattM
    replied
    yeah, i played around with the O2 sensors a bit.

    im going to go through the vacuum and electrical system tonight.

    I do have GT1 running on my laptop, so i can re align the EWS to another computer.

    Leave a comment:


  • luckysnafu
    replied
    Originally posted by bimmerteck
    Make sure the O2 sensors are installed into the correct banks. ;)
    If he can read codes there would be multiple codes thrown for having the O2 sensors switched. I had that problem when I installed new ones. The car still ran/idled and drove, just not very well.

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  • etxxz
    replied
    1) ^^ yes.

    2) my engine did that when i had huge vaccuum leaks. Try to rev it to keep it from dying, after a minute or so, does it idle steady? If so, you messed up some hoses, check all. specially those connected to the Idle control valve. Hell that could be the cause. BTW, if you're running obd2, you can't just get another ecu.. you'll need key and ewsII module as you probably already know.

    3) Do you even get even firing or does it sound like a v-twin?

    Leave a comment:


  • bimmerteck
    replied
    Make sure the O2 sensors are installed into the correct banks. ;)

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  • MattM
    replied
    well, sounds like im going to pull my intake mani off tomorrow and go through everything! If all is good ill assume the ECU...

    Leave a comment:


  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Originally posted by MattM
    im almost 100% sure the harness is correct, i spent about 3 days in the ETM's marking and labeling everything, and writing a pinout for the x20
    I am always like this......but multi-meter tells the TRUTH.

    if 1/2 the cylinders are not running (as your symptoms seem to show) then 1/2 the cylinders are not getting fuel or spark.

    if hand can touch headers, than those cylinders = not working.

    I have always found some idiot simple mistake when I am 110% uuber sure of my self :P

    last time I connected my Crank position sensor to oil level by accident and thought the DME was bad...
    Last edited by Wanganstyle; 08-29-2011, 10:49 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattM
    replied
    Originally posted by Wanganstyle
    Code reader won't help u diagnose improper wiring mistakes, only useful for 100% original car to diagnose broken sensors etc

    Code reader is close to useless in many swaps, it cannot tell you if the harness is physically wrong.

    Multi meter or even a simple test light would show u the end of the tunnel....
    im almost 100% sure the harness is correct, i spent about 3 days in the ETM's marking and labeling everything, and writing a pinout for the x20

    Leave a comment:


  • ExViTermini
    replied
    My obd1 m50 acted this same way. Twas the ecu.. :(

    Leave a comment:


  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Code reader won't help u diagnose improper wiring mistakes, only useful for 100% original car to diagnose broken sensors etc

    Code reader is close to useless in many swaps, it cannot tell you if the harness is physically wrong.

    Multi meter or even a simple test light would show u the end of the tunnel....

    Leave a comment:


  • MattM
    replied
    i have a code reader, the only code i am getting is fuel tank pressure sensor... its not hooked up

    Ill try some of this stuff tonight

    Leave a comment:

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