looks like this.
shortening the rod and notching firewall wasnt to hard but I give you props for something different
Alternative to brake booster modification
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No modification is needed on the E32 booster IF you are using the spacer between it and the fire wall.
If you choose to get rid of the spacer, so you can run the reservoir on the MC, then it does need to be modified.Leave a comment:
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Yeah I bought the booster and mc from white325is back in March. He even said I would have to extend the rod a hair. When I first put it together the brake pedal was to the floor. So I just took the pedal out and modded it. It only took me like 45 min. I Just wanted to share a different approach rather than extending the rod.Leave a comment:
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agree with jahnaboi, this seems unnecessary.
I used the 25mm master cylinder with 7-series double stacked booster. thinking that I needed to do machine work (because I read up on it), I brought both my stock booster and the new booster to my school's machine shop, went to measure them, and discovered I could unthread the adjuster from my stock booster, and thread it onto the 7er booster, no modifications, welding, tapping, threading, or cutting required! proper length is maintained and it went in without a hitchLeave a comment:
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First your conception of "instead of extending the rod," (using a e32 brake booster/master cylinder) is misleading. No modification has to be done when using the 735il double stack booster/master. The only modification (if using the correct double stacked booster with 25mm master cylinder) is chopping the adjuster that bolts to the rod about slightly less to 1/4 inch to have proper brake pedal adjustment. That's it.
Are you sure you're using the right booster?Leave a comment:
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Alternative to brake booster modification
While doing my S50B30 swap in my 1985 325e I used an e32 brake booster and master cylinder. Instead of extending the rod, I modified the actual brake lever instead.
-First I cut the original mounting bracket off with a cutoff wheel starting with the sides then across the face.

-The next two pictures show the mounting bracket completely cut off.


-once cut off, re-install the pedal.
-Next take the mounting bracket that you cut off and attach it to the rod with the original pin. (booster should be already mounted).
-Then hold the pedal to the desired height and hold the bracket against the lever so that it can be marked.
-Once marked. Weld the bracket back on to the brake pedal lever in new position and re-install. (don't forget to remove the plastic bushings from the lever before you weld)
Thanks for looking.Tags: None

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