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HELP e30 m3 s52 swap - Runs but - Coolant Temp Gauge not working... toltally stumped.

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  • r4esh
    replied
    Yes it's an m20 sensor. And it was re-threaded by Market Motorworks to fit into the old throttle body coolant line hole on the block for the swap.

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  • dreamchasin
    replied
    Are you using an m20 sensor? And you shouldn't have to take the intake off to get to the sensor..I never did..

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  • DTM190
    replied
    I have the same issue, sub'd to see how you go and if I find anything that sorts mine I will let you know

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  • e46s54dr
    replied
    Its not necessarily the actual gauge but its the contact point where the gauge meets the board.

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  • rlddlr53
    replied

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  • r4esh
    replied
    Thanks "e46s54dr" thats helpful. I wish I saw this before I put the cluster back in today... I tried "tightening the nut" method. I'll drive it tomorrow and see if that works, if not, then I'll be trying this next. Its not wiring. Its more than likely not the new sensor, so that pretty much leaves the cluster / gauge. I guess I could get a new gauge if your link method doesn't work.... at that point I'm completely lost on this...

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  • e46s54dr
    replied
    I had similar problems in my e30 and spent tons of time trouble shooting the sensors and wiring only to find out it was a ground in my actual gauge cluster. I went head an attached a link that may be helpful for you.

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  • r4esh
    replied
    Ya I'd be surprised if its the sensor, I'm not convinced it is.

    The gauge worked before.. but I read something about them getting a loose ground over time. So I just finished the process of removing my instrument cluster to take a peek.... I don't know what I should be looking for, everything seems fine, do I have to take the whole back panel off to see?

    Lastly: When I turn the key to the ON position, nothing happens... if I TAP on the glass of the instrument panel, then the needle will bounce up to the cold position and stay there. Strange, no? if the car gets hot it wont rise from there, but it needs that initial "tap" to move at all.

    I tried grounding the harness side wire and the needle wouldn't move, BUT my test light will light up indicating the wire has power, so I'm NOW leaning toward an issue with the cluster and not the sensor or wiring. Next step is to use the multimeter and see how MUCH power its getting... maybe not enough? Thoughts?

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  • /\/\ III
    replied
    I'm double checking my work since we are on the same project more or less, I've already started tracing out my wires. Thanks.

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    Is the single wire going into the connector matching up with the single pin on the sensor? If the gauge doesnt budge at all then its not making a good connection to the sensor somewhere.
    Ill eat my own shoe if the sensor is borked. I test all of em before they go out ;)

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  • r4esh
    replied
    Ya I can send it. Why do you need it? I have it all written down so I just need to type it up. Anyone have any other thoughts on this? I'm headed out there in a min to ground out harness cable and see if the needle spikes. - Will report back.

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  • /\/\ III
    replied
    ha...hilarious...who wouldn't

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  • Mr.SWISS
    replied
    Originally posted by /\/\ III View Post
    @r4esh, can you send me your x20 / c101 pin spreadsheet?
    Damn you want naked pics of moms too....

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  • /\/\ III
    replied
    @r4esh, can you send me your x20 / c101 pin spreadsheet?

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  • 502M3JOHN
    replied
    had same problem buy a e30 318i temp sensor should fix it

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