S50 running issues

[Danny]

I sent it to a shop. They redid the wiring harness and did away with the adapter which was installed. I also replaced my vanos with a rebuilt unit and new vanos actuator. I believe it was al wiring related.

[Sladek]

I know its been a long time, but did you even find out the issue?

this sounds similar to my issue with my obd1 s52 that im having so im also curious if this ever got figured out

[m3boost]

I know its been a long time, but did you even find out the issue?

[Danny]

Oh yeah I tried unplugging the fan again, didn't work. I'm pretty sure it is wiring related though.

[Mr.SWISS]

Fuse number 11 is the fuel pump, it is rated at 7.5 amps. I have an idea that my jerry rigged fan wiring could be causing issues with electrical interference. My fan is currently plugged into the main relay's switched 12v blade.

Y?

I think you found the problem.

If you deemed the quality of repair as " (insert racial or ethnic slurr) rigged"
Then you knew it was dumb when you were doing it....

So what's wrong with using the existing wiring and putting in a lower temp switch? That way if temps rise you can kick the fan on low speed with a quick depression of the A/C button.

This thread is too long for a problem this small.

[Danny]

Fuse number 11 is the fuel pump, it is rated at 7.5 amps. I have an idea that my jerry rigged fan wiring could be causing issues with electrical interference. My fan is currently plugged into the main relay's switched 12v blade.

[e30user]

So here is a bit of fun info for you. I have a 15 amp fuse in my place of my 7.5 amp fuel pump fuse. The car runs like shit when the fuse is in place but if I pull the fuse it runs beautifully, until it dies of course. If I put the correct 7.5 amp fuse in, the fuse blows.

I'm really confused about this. How long does the car run beautifully for, before dying? Is there enough fuel in the system to see if the throttle response is also cured? I don't have a list of all the fuse specs with me but are you sure 7.5A is the correct rating? If so, maybe try to find out why it's blowing. 328ijunkie could be right that even 15 is too low, but I don't recall ever having to put in stronger-than-spec fuses in my swap. Are there multiple fuses with different ratings related to the fuel pump? Again, I'm not sure what the expected rating is for the fuel pump fuse. I'm guessing this fuse wasn't constantly popping when things were running ok during your week after replacing the fuel pump, even with the 7.5A.

Can you say which number fuse you're looking at? I'm curious to check what I'm running on mine. After googling there's some interesting and varied reasons for dealing with fuel pump fuses repeatedly blowing. Is there a way to verify that the new fuel pump is still indeed good? I may be overthinking what you described, but it seems like an interesting lead.

[Danny]

Correct, it was not a sporadic type of movement. It was controlled and responded only to the change in engine RPM.

[Ryann]

Okay but the needle motion was smooth, no? Not bouncing rapidly?

[Danny]

Carb cleaner won't show you much. I use water mist out of the DIY car wash wand. Was the vac gauge needle steady at 15 or was it bouncing?

Well the RPM was fluctuating and the gauge followed suit.

[Ryann]

Carb cleaner won't show you much. I use water mist out of the DIY car wash wand. Was the vac gauge needle steady at 15 or was it bouncing?

[Danny]

Just replaced it with a brand new one.

[giantkeeper]

ECU Coolant temp sensor plugged in correctly?

Yep, its plugged into the correct connector. Cluster temp works fine.

Faulty ECU coolant sensor?

[Danny]

Yep, its plugged into the correct connector. Cluster temp works fine.

[328ijunkie]

ECU Coolant temp sensor plugged in correctly?