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Daily Driver s52 Sedan. The Silberbullet.

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    How hard is the cruise install? I'm waiting on my cruise set up to show up from Guten. Awesome build!
    91 318is M50 swapped
    05 Honda Pilot

    24V swap thread
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302524

    Comment


      Well cruise control has been quite complicated for me.. but the install of the inside cabin went very smoothly. You just simply install the separate harness in and connect at the correct spots. I used this:

      http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/ele...l_install.html

      The correct cruise cable from the servo to my OBDII throttle body has been very hard to find. I posted about it here:

      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=326905

      SO updates for my car are: still no cruise control. But I have fixed my steering wobble I believe (new e36 rack went in as well), installed lugs, and fitted an m20 air box. I also had the dent fixed from under the passenger door from PO. Here are some pictures in no particular order.





      And here is the dent before:



      And after a buddy of mine fixed it;



      Thanks for the comments and help as always.
      View my build thread. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=287724

      Comment


        Any details on that air box fitment? What did you do to clear the alternator
        1990 332i, 4 door
        2008 KTM 990 Superduke
        2018 Golf R, 6spd manual (Pending delivery)
        2017 Mazda CX-5 GT
        2007 Z4M Coupe - Sold to very nice people

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          Cut a big hole in the box and made sure to keep the cut under the filter. Not the cleanest, but you can't see it when its mounted and the k&n was sucking the same warm air so I wasn't concerned with air temps. I wanted a higher quality filter, more OEM look and the ease of a $12 filter when I want a new one.
          View my build thread. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=287724

          Comment


            I bought this from Link last week and am going to continue (ahem, hijack) the thread. Neveriending stooooooooryyyy.

            Dropped the rear subframe today to rehab subframe bushings and RTABs. Thought I was gonna get lucky with a smooth R&R – started off well, thanks to airtools – but the subframe bushing is badly seized to the subframe. Rubber came out… but not the sleeve.

            I don't have the special tool so I worked something up… ended up with a whole stack of bent washers and no progress after ~8 hours. Gotta get it done today though… so it looks like I'm headed to Harbor Freight in the morning for a pittman puller and some grinding bits to make this.

            Man I hope the RTABs go a bit more smoothly…

            Anyone around that has the real deal tools?

            Comment


              I just cut a slit in the sleeve and then hit them with a chisel and hammer to get them out. Are you putting OEM rubber bushings in or poly?
              For all things 24v, check out Markert Motorworks!
              Originally posted by mbonanni
              I hate modded emtree, I hate modded cawrz, I hate jdm, I hate swag, I hate stanceyolokids, I hate bags (on cars), I hate stuff that is slowz, I hate tires.

              I am a pursit now.

              Comment


                Originally posted by orangechicken View Post
                Anyone around that has the real deal tools?
                I think someone in the PNW rents the tool. Post the question in the chit chat thread and Im sure someone else will know

                How much did you pick the car up for?
                Simon
                Current Cars:
                -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

                Make R3V Great Again -2020

                Comment


                  Glad to see you found the thread. Keep the Silberbullet alive and moving forward. It is a great car. I picked up a 2005 Subaru OBXT Limited Wagon. Ill check on the thread occasionally!
                  View my build thread. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=287724

                  Comment


                    Congrats, Link!

                    I got the RTABs and subframe bushings R&Red (…an orrrrrdeal that I don't want to relive now… lesson learned: buy/rent/borrow the special tools.

                    @Roysneon: They were OEM rubber.

                    @Link: Did you install the CSB backwards? There's confusing info online regarding the orientation of the CSB, but I think that might be the source of that vibration. It seems to be offset in the opposite direction (towards the driver's side) than the diff is (towards the passenger side). I'm going to flip it and see if that clears that up. Then I'm going to retime that cams (special tools!) to see if I can get rid of that Mechanical Jamming code.

                    Comment


                      CSB was definitely backwards (an understandable mistake given the amount of confusing information caused by the change in CSB style midway through the production years).

                      Tried to remove it to flip it, but ended up destroying it in the process. So I ordered the E30 CSB kit from Pelican Parts. Unfortunately, I learned that, because the E36 M3 driveshaft has both u-joints on the back half, the splines go the opposite way through the CSB and the support plate / dust covers from the Pelican Parts kit won't work.

                      So I ordered the ones from the E36 and got everything patched up tonight. Definitive answer (that I've spammed elsewhere) for late model E30 318's (at least) using an E36 M3 manual driveshaft (at least) is:

                      1. Buy the E30 CSB for your year car. These late model E30 318's (among others) have an offset carrier.

                      2. Install the CSB in its stock orientation – not backwards – with the offset towards the passenger side.

                      3. *Don't* buy the dust covers / support plates for the E30 CSB, however. Instead, buy the E36 versions (part #s 26 11 1 226 552 & 553, IIRC). Circlip is the same for both, I believe.

                      4. Don't forget to preload the CSB!

                      Now I have no more shudder under heavy acceleration in first and second! I still have a vibration when I coast (even out of gear) between 45-55mph but goes away when I put any power down. Ideas?

                      Comment


                        Sounds like you are slowing chasing down all the little problems I was learning to live with for the time being. I hope to someday get a ride in the Silberbullet again, she is a champion of a daily driver.

                        Is the vibration in the steering wheel or the seats/car itself?

                        As far as car price I will leave that up to the new owner to disclose if he wants to, I'd say he got one hell of a deal for the time/money/work put into the car.

                        Reading this thread brings back so many memories.

                        Keep up the good work though, and add some pictures here and there!
                        View my build thread. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=287724

                        Comment


                          The vibration was definitely in the driveshaft. I took it to Drivelines NW to have them rebalance it and learned that two u-joints were shot so I instead got to have them rebuild it ($550 vs $100… blergh).

                          Unfortunately, they must've got the wrong CSB or else it's a manufacturer defect, because the carrier is the correct orientation but the rubber mount part is backwards. So now the vibration under acceleration in 1st and 2nd is back! The vibration between 45 and 65 is gone, so at least I can drive it until I get a chance to take the driveshaft off and back to them again…

                          I'm hoping that once that's fixed that I'll be done with driveshafts for a while. I just had to replace the front driveshaft on my wife's Land Rover Discovery II. Thankfully that one's both cheaper ($350 on sale) and easier to access and swap (all of 8 bolts).

                          Then it'll be onto solving that CEL. I think it's the timing (since the BMW code being thrown is Mechanical Jamming…)

                          Comment


                            The Silberbullet is mine again...
                            Last edited by Link; 06-30-2019, 12:24 PM.
                            View my build thread. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=287724

                            Comment


                              Where to begin (or continue)… the car is mine again. I tracked down orangechicken who owned the car for the last 5 years and 50,000 miles. He was willing to part with the car after months of persistent requests.

                              The car came home and needed some quick love. I spent the last two weeks tearing apart the interior and suspension to freshen the car up. It got a new carpet and better set of sport seats from a donor car I bought to daily while the Silberbullet under went operations.

                              I'll be sure to post pictures here soon. I have a set of new wheels for the car in the mail along with more goodies. It has felt like the holidays here with endless packages arriving.

                              I am having an electrical issue... posted about here https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=431586

                              I sure would appreciate any help. I am a very happy person to have my old project back.
                              View my build thread. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=287724

                              Comment


                                Congrats to you, sir. Welcome back.
                                '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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