Euro S50 and Brake Boosters

[1990m3]

beautiful! Do you ever make it out to the track? I'm in your area and would love to see your setup sometime.

[Mike B.]

It is a boosterless setup. The kit comes with bracket, dual master (spec'd for your car/brake setup), clevis, NPT to metric adapters, and firewall gasket.

Please PM or email me for pricing.

[nmlss2006]

This runs with no booster? What's the pricepoint?

[FredK]

Wow. That thing is so shiny, it makes me want to go out and buy an S50B32 just so I can install it! :mrgreen:

[Mike B.]

Here are some more photos of the dual master cylinder setup which mounts to the stock pedal cluster with no modifications. These are now available on an "as needed" basis if anyone wants one. I can also adapt your stock brake pedal on an exchange basis to change the pedal ratio from 4:1 to a more favorable 6:1.

[Mike B.]

Matt, I have a drawing of the mounting surface for the booster if you need exact dimensions. All you would have to do is get the spacing for the master cylinder mounting stud and you would be good to go. Send me a PM.

[matt]

Stock e30 MC with no boost and slightly more leverage from the pedal would probably be OK. I need to look into making a plate like that...

[Mike B.]

If the master cylinders are properly sized, the pedal should be pretty good. But you are right, a non-boosted 25mm master with a 4:1 pedal ratio would feel like a concrete block.

Trent moved the pickup up on the brake arm to increase the pedal ratio.

[FredK]

Well, I was futzing around on the internet, and I saw this:



It is similar in principle to Trent's setup. I assume it would be similar to stepping on a cinder block in terms of brake feel, though.

[Mike B.]

Tilton is kind enough to spec master cylinder size if you provide them some specs of you setup (piston size, pedal ratio, car weight, wt. distribution, etc...). They will give you a firm and soft option on sizes.

I was spec'd 19mm masters for my setup and the pedal is firm, but not like Lee describes above. Similar to the feel of an E21 booster on a swapped car. I spec'd both cylinders the same size and kept the E30 bias valve. You can add adjustable bias by installing an adjustable bias control valve (Tilton / Wilwood) in the rear line.

It should be fine on a RHD car as it was designed to mount in the stock location and incorporate the stock pedal mounting point. I assume the mounting points are the same for both LHD and RHD cars.

[Massive Lee]

Hi Josh

If you go boosterless, then I'd recommend either small masters, or big pistons in the front calipers (1.75" or 1.62")

This summer, I drove an old style Mini with dual masters that were not properly sized and it made braking more of an on-off technique. Maybe I was not used to it though.

But if you run an e30 chassis with S14, then you can work with the e30 brake booster. Then get a 25mm MC with front 1.75"/rear 1.12" pistons, or stock MC with 1.38" front pistons and rear stockies. The pedal will be shorter and firmer when using stock MC and 1.38" front pistons but will offer a very balance braking with stock rear set-up.

Lee

[tubby17s]

Mike will this will be able to run on a right hand drive car?

Lee do you have any input on how well this would work with your willwood race kit? I didnt end up getting the M3.. just got the engine

Would i need to change the pedal ratio for this to work perfectly?

I am very interested as im not 100% happy with the golf Mk1 GTi brake booster set up.

Please provide as much information as possible. Sash (Mr_Saz) and i both live in sydney australia and we would really liek to get oen each if this turns out to be a good solution.

If you would like to email my email is raceasyoudrive@hotmail.com i think you should show you product here for everyone to see..

Josh

[MR_SAZ]

sounds good looks good....

Thanks Josh for the link, i think we should get the kit!

[Mike B.]

Where? Through me. You can send me a PM or email me at mike at motomotions dot com. I will probably build them on an as-needed basis and I am having my welding (my skill suck) create a jig, so they can be cranked out quickly as necessary.

They will be around $350 - $400. This depends on my welding cost and if I make the brackets out of aluminum, stainless, or mild steel (powdercoated). The price includes the bracket, master cylinders, metric brake line fittings, and clevis.

I can also have the mounting holes moved up on the bracket if you are willing to relocate the mounting point on the pedal to improve the ratio.

[tubby17s]

so mike B..... where and how much do we get these????