Euro S50 and Brake Boosters

[Mike B.]

It is an Ate cylinder, but it's got the wrong bolt pattern. The car I am getting has an upgraded 25mm M/C, do you think this would be a good match, or will I have issue with it's length?

[ian332isport]

I think the later cars mostly used Girling cylinders, and as you have found, they have the wrong bolt pattern to connect to ATE boosters (vacuum or hydraulic).

I searched long and hard for a shorter MC for use with the ATE hydraulic booster, but never did find one. I came close with some Audi /VW parts, but these needed a shorter push rod than the one used in the hydraulic booster.

Ian.

[Mike B.]

Well, I picked up the M3 master cylinder like Lee suggested. However, it looks like the mounting holes are not the same angle as the hydraulic booster.



If mounted, the fill lines from the reservoir will be at an approx. 60 degree angle. Is this ok, or will it leak? I will be using the 540 remote reservoir setup.

[ian332isport]

If you go hydraulic, you are better off getting the booster from the E23 7 series. The booster is the same overall length, but the mounting flange is furhter down the body, so some of the boosters length is inside the car.

Ian.

[Mike B.]

Yep, I am also accumulating the parts for the hydraulic setup. I think I'll make the decision when I have everything in hand and can test fit the parts.

[Tom944]

Why not use the 7er hydraulic brake system? Or was this mentioned before?

[Mike B.]

Maybe I should just say screw it and go manual.

[Mike B.]

I've also read that a Golf booster with a 25mm Audi M/C will fit as well. I'm checking into it further.

EDIT: Apparently an Mk1/Mk2 booster will work with some shaving of the intake manifold.

[ZiMMie]

I've ordered a Metro booster to see what modifications need to be made. I'll report back when I have it in hand.

I know for sure you will not be able to use a BMW M/C. The stud spacing on the booster is different.

Please do so to report back ur finding on the Metro booster.
Im' Patienly Waiting

[tjhartge]

a pal of mine with a euro s50b30 engine used the hydraulic setup from the e32 everything went in including the ABS system, power steering pump.

he didn't quite like the brake feel, it wasn't firm enough for his liking but the car did stop on a dime, eventually he took it out, and replaced it with a double booster from an E32, it was a tight fit, but it's possible to do it

[Massive Lee]

Installing a US spec M3 motor is a walk in the park as it is just the same as standard M50. The Euro S50-52 are much bigger and do not install the ame way. This being said, I have already installed Euro-spec motors, and not 2002, e21 or iX booster will clear the plenum or the rubbr intake boot.

[Skafrog]

Early 2002 booster's are smaller that regular 2002 boosters. Put one in, run a vacuum bottle, and you have stock feel. No need to fuck around with anything.

Trent, do you have any pics of exactly where you modified the pedal leverage. I understand the concept, but I would just like to see how far you moved the mounting location for the added leverage.

-Erik

I moved the pickup for the pedal rod up about an inch.

I don't have any pictures of said modification.

[erik325i]

I dunno Lee, as we have discussed in email, my setup feels like a stock E30 M3 with a 25MM master cylinder. It is firm, but not too firm, and just right (I believe). Maybe a tad stiffer than the e30m3/25mm setup. I also drive the car daily. Under aggressive driving the modulation is fantastic, with no changes in feel due to boostr pressure differences.

The whole key though it to modify the brake pedal and related pressure. I doubled changed the ratio from 4:1, to about 6.25:1. Gaining that leverage is very nice. :)

Trent, do you have any pics of exactly where you modified the pedal leverage. I understand the concept, but I would just like to see how far you moved the mounting location for the added leverage.

-Erik

[gstuning]

When I go S50 again,
manual brakes for me, anything else is just to much of a hassle,