e30 m52 s14 s50 weight comparisons

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  • whiltebeitel
    replied
    Originally posted by static
    i have full soft front and half turn from full soft at rear on the konis

    Maybe you don't have enoguh dampening up front. Turn the shocks to a stiffer setting, and play with that.

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  • Brew
    replied
    Its not that stiff at all. I've been daily driving on these rates for the past 3 years. I think my Koni's are set to about a 1/4 turn from full stiff front and rear, but I haven't messed around with them much at all because the car handles so well.

    The additional camber was very noticeable to me, and it stopped me from overheating the outer edge of my tires.

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  • static
    replied
    Originally posted by Brew
    My car is about as neutral as you can get, under or oversteer can be dialed in around almost any corner at just about any speed. Adding camber plates up front and about 3.5 degrees negative camber was a huge help to both turn-in and front end grip.

    GC 350f/475r, Koni SAs, M3 CABs, stock sways, 205/50-15 RS-2's. The front toe is aligned to m3 specs.
    i am running same shocks, CABs, Eibach sways and same tires (even same width) albeit with H&R sports (soft i know) and dialing in camber to 3 neg almost changed nothing at an autox

    how much harsher do you think adding same weight GC's would be on my daily? (i have full soft front and half turn from full soft at rear on the konis, did you have to stiffen them up with these weight springs?)

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  • rwh11385
    replied
    Originally posted by Axxe
    Every E30 understeers. You just need to dial in some more right foot.
    ehhhh. i wouldn't go that far. spring rates and camber i know can go very far in changing how a car handles. unless e30s are fundamentally different from a normal vehicle

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  • mazur
    replied
    Originally posted by Axxe
    Every E30 understeers.
    I hope that comment is a joke.

    I never had understeer without or with my S50. Even when I was still rocking 195's.

    You you want to feel a lot of understeer go drive an E36 M3.

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  • payney8
    replied
    haha ok ill do it then im already starting to upset the local drift community with her in this shitty standard

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  • Brew
    replied
    My car is about as neutral as you can get, under or oversteer can be dialed in around almost any corner at just about any speed. Adding camber plates up front and about 3.5 degrees negative camber was a huge help to both turn-in and front end grip.

    GC 350f/475r, Koni SAs, M3 CABs, stock sways, 205/50-15 RS-2's. The front toe is aligned to m3 specs.

    Leave a comment:


  • Axxe
    replied
    Originally posted by static
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/engine_faq/

    m42 is 34lb lighter than s14

    US m50/s50 is around 300lb and alu blocked is 260lb

    one more thing you guys have to keep in mind is that straight6 stick out past the front axel, which is detrimental for handling.

    I am kind of tired of my s50e30's heavy nose understeer at autox's and track, so i've been toying with idea of a turbo'ed M42 instead.
    Every E30 understeers. You just need to dial in some more right foot.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason89i
    replied
    Originally posted by static
    Trailbrake ends up plowing with one front wheel locked up...........just plows like a pig.......Stiffening up rear bar is going backwards, as it just reduces the rear grip as opposed to increasing the overal grip. .
    um, think about what you just said.
    problem: car pushes, rear grip is greater than front grip.
    recomendation: stiffen up rear bar.
    your response: stiffening up the rear bar reduces rear grip.

    think about it, less overall grip in rear, more overall grip on the front....less understeer.

    just about any e30 can be set to neutral with some good springs, shocks and adjustible bars.

    of course thing can get complex real quick. if you feel your in the deep end, you could always find someone that builds roadrace cars to dial it in.

    cheers, jason.
    Last edited by Jason89i; 06-30-2007, 07:10 AM.

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  • PiercedE30
    replied
    DO it.

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  • payney8
    replied
    so is it actually worth the s50 swap? i am thinking going s52 obd1 and pissing off the m40 in there atm. i dont wont to loss the handling it has now

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  • matt
    replied
    Originally posted by static
    as for skills, i had a local autox guru running my car and it plowed in his hands too, so it's not my lacking skills.
    I didn't mean driving skills.

    Adding adjustability is step one, but then you need to adjust it properly.

    Spring rates, shock damping, sway bars, camber and toe... all of these will change the balance and grip of the car.

    Obviously the weight distribution has something to do with it also, but it is not the handicap you make it out to be.

    Leave a comment:


  • static
    replied
    Originally posted by madjurgen
    Learn how to rotate, trailbraking is your friend. Plus, dont you 24v guys have enough power to throttlesteer a bit now?
    who's talking about power-oversteer? I do that easily, i am talking about neutrality of the car. Trailbrake ends up plowing with one front wheel locked up.
    Stiffening up rear bar is going backwards, as it just reduces the rear grip as opposed to increasing the overal grip. Funny thing is even 3deg neg camber in the front doesn't really help - just plows like a pig

    as for skills, i had a local autox guru running my car and it plowed in his hands too, so it's not my lacking skills.

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  • matt
    replied
    Don't blame the weight distribution for lacking the ability or knowlege to set the car's suspension up properly.

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  • madjurgen
    replied
    Originally posted by static
    I am kind of tired of my s50e30's heavy nose understeer at autox's and track

    Learn how to rotate, trailbraking is your friend. Plus, dont you 24v guys have enough power to throttlesteer a bit now?

    Leave a comment:

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