The comprehensive DOHC engine swap thread.

[joshh]

I didn't even think of that.....that could have a bad outcome.

[///meric]

Im looking to do the swap and i really hate elecctrical, From what i have read all that needs to be done is make the m50 harness clip into the e30 harness, i know threehouse racing sells an adapter if i where to get this would this eliminate the need to do any wiring and all i would haev to do is plug the m50 ecu into where the m20 ecu would be.

[///meric]

Also what do you guys do for gauges. I was thinking of building my own dash out of carbon fiber but what tach and speedo would i have to do and will this cause the enigne to haev a lower rev limit

[325Projectz]

Also what do you guys do for gauges. I was thinking of building my own dash out of carbon fiber but what tach and speedo would i have to do and will this cause the enigne to haev a lower rev limit

It changes car to car, thats what the adapter is for.

What kind of car 318, 325 e or i?

[///meric]

its a 325es 86

[325Projectz]

Change your tach/cluster to an i/7k redline. Then buy kylebes1's adapter and thats it.

[joshh]

I had a bit of a problem finding the part #'s for the right engine mount but I did find it. So the part #'s for both mounts are as follows:
Left: 11811175735 this one needs a 5mm spacer but costs 1/2 the price of the E28 M5 mount.
Left: 11812225201
Right: 11811128932




The part #'s for the E36 M50 engine mount arms are as follow:
Left: 11811141137
Right: 11811138249

[joshh]

I took the oil pump apart tonight and was pretty suprised. The thing is deffinately well designed.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD63&mospid=47404&btnr=11_1277&hg=11&fg=30

The pump I have is still in great shape. The M50 oil pump is all machanical so I checked for scratches and excess wear but really there was so little the only things I feel need to be replaced are #'s 7, 10, 11 and 13.
I was expecting to have to replace the whole thing at a good cost. :D

[e30_325es]

I'm contemplating swaping a 94 m50 from an auto 525i into my 87 325 5-speed. I've got a few questions.

1) Will the dual mass flywheel from my 325 work w/ the m50 if I just shave the oil pan? I've read that the single mass will work, but will the double mass? (don't ask why, if I do the swap, you'll hear about it).
2) If the dual mass won't work, will an m50 clutch package work w/ my eta tranny? I can get the setup cheap.
3) Who had the writeup on splicing the e34 harness to the e30? Could you PM me with the info? Thank you.
4) I'm up in NY (not the city), can I run this w/ no fan for the winter, or is it easy to just put my clutch fan on?
5) I'll need the 88+ e30/36 radiator correct? Which hoses? Why can't I use my cooling system?
6) How hard is it to delete the A/C? Do you need a new belt when you remove the compressor?
7) Do you recommend running powersteering or can I go w/o? Or is it really easy and cheap to keep it?


Thanks for your help guys!


(oh yeah, and I did just read all 46 pages, I didn't see any of these answers there)

[Jarvis]

1) Will the dual mass flywheel from my 325 work w/ the m50 if I just shave the oil pan? I've read that the single mass will work, but will the double mass? (don't ask why, if I do the swap, you'll hear about it).
2) If the dual mass won't work, will an m50 clutch package work w/ my eta tranny? I can get the setup cheap.
3) Who had the writeup on splicing the e34 harness to the e30? Could you PM me with the info? Thank you.
4) I'm up in NY (not the city), can I run this w/ no fan for the winter, or is it easy to just put my clutch fan on?
5) I'll need the 88+ e30/36 radiator correct? Which hoses? Why can't I use my cooling system?
6) How hard is it to delete the A/C? Do you need a new belt when you remove the compressor?
7) Do you recommend running powersteering or can I go w/o? Or is it really easy and cheap to keep it?

4.) Wire up an electric fan (in front of your radiator) to an on/off switch in the car. Flip the fan on if you're sitting in traffic, or doing whatever would make the car run hotter than normal.
6.) Deleting the A/C is easy. You don't need to replace any belts. If there's no A/C compressor, then you won't need a belt.
Just make sure you get the system evacuated at a shop if there's still freon in your lines. Don't just open the lines - for two reasons: it's illegal (I personally don't care, but some people might) and you could blind yourself emptying freon into the air like that.
7.) Definitely keep power steering. The steering actually feels more solid than stock with the M50 power steering pump in an E30, at least in the cars I've driven. The feel/sense of pressure is more consistent.

Sorry I couldn't help with the transmission and radiator questions.
On the E30-M50 I helped do before, the stock 325i radiator worked fine. And we used a stock Getrag 260 (your transmission - internally the same in 325, 325e, 325i) with a stock M20 flywheel (single mass from 325i)and clutch.

Goodluck on your swap.

*Edit: Brew - I win, I post faster than you. I want an internet trophy.

[Brew]

I'm contemplating swaping a 94 m50 from an auto 525i into my 87 325 5-speed. I've got a few questions.

1) Will the dual mass flywheel from my 325 work w/ the m50 if I just shave the oil pan? I've read that the single mass will work, but will the double mass? (don't ask why, if I do the swap, you'll hear about it).
Not sure about that, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work.
2) If the dual mass won't work, will an m50 clutch package work w/ my eta tranny? I can get the setup cheap.
Nope.
3) Who had the writeup on splicing the e34 harness to the e30? Could you PM me with the info? Thank you.
Your best best is to follow AKG's pin chart, or buy an adapter from 'kylebes' or Treehouse.
4) I'm up in NY (not the city), can I run this w/ no fan for the winter, or is it easy to just put my clutch fan on?
You shouldn't have any issues without a clutch fan, as long as your aux fan is in good working order. I rigged mine up to a switch inside the car and I only use it when sitting in heavy traffic.
5) I'll need the 88+ e30/36 radiator correct? Which hoses? Why can't I use my cooling system?
E36 hoses. Your radiator would be backwards.
6) How hard is it to delete the A/C? Do you need a new belt when you remove the compressor?
Very easy to do, just pull the compressor and mounting bracket. Its on its own belt so nothing to worry about there.
7) Do you recommend running powersteering or can I go w/o? Or is it really easy and cheap to keep it?
My power steering hoses hooked right up to the m50 pump and resevoir, just had to slightly bend one of the hard lines. I would recommend keeping it.

[joshh]

To get the AC bracket off the block you have to remove the vibration dampner. There are 6 bolts and two of them bolt in behind the dampner. Or you can leave the bracket and remove just the pump.

[02stu]

I just did that, what I bitch, if it weren't for that one bolt behind the vibration dampener it would take a fifth of the time. That is one serious bracket too, you could pick the car up from it.

[i3uller]

I just did that, what I bitch, if it weren't for that one bolt behind the vibration dampener it would take a fifth of the time. That is one serious bracket too, you could pick the car up from it.

Ahhh I remember that crap. Took damn near forevor to do it.

[bimmers4life]

Has anyone on here gotten there car smog legalized at a referee station in california? I have wanted to do the swap for a long time but this is the one thing that really holds me back. I know that all you have to do is have an engine that is newer than the car your putting it in and retain all the original smog equipment, then go get it certified. I want to do this really bad! What, as far as wiring, would i have to do different than all the non smog swaps on here??? I plan on a non vanos m50. Thanks for your time.