That helps a LOT thanks. I really appreciate that.
If you'd like to swap that out for a DME with disabled EWS (or send it to me and let me figure out how to disable the EWS on that one) let me know. It's kind of what I do. :)
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Originally posted by atlzhp6m View PostThanks for posting all of these details. I'm sure I will use a lot of this info someday.
I'm planning on buying a salvage MZ3 and doing a full OBDII swap into my e30.
If you have a donor car with all of the modules and wiring harnesses, why do you have to splice into the E30 harness vs Replacing with Z3 harness and components?
I'm sure there is a good reason for doing what you are doing, I'm just confused.
don't limit your search to only an mz3. an e36 or e46 m3 would work fine too. you just won't have the rear suspension from these cars.
a far as the wiring harness is concerned, it doesn't really work that way. the mz3 and e30 body harnesses are so much different. how would you connect the mz3 harness to the e30 instrument cluster for example? there are probably 100 connections on the mz3 harness that are different from my little old 318.
Originally posted by matt View PostCan you do me a favor and post a pic of your EWS module and ECU? Does the ECU say "MS41.1" on it?
Sorry, I hadn't done my research, you're right about EWS3.
for all of you electrical masochists, here is what the inside of the ews module looks like
this is the hall effect switch for ews that is attached to the clutch. i am still trying to decide if i should try to figure out a way to attach it to my e30 clutch or just bypass it. you can see the wiring diagram in this thread above on the previous page. by looking at the diagram, i think i could just run a hot in start and run wire to this pin on the ews and be done with it.
this is the microchiped key, and the ring antenna on the ignition switch. i sure wish this would fit in the ignition tumbler of the e30. haven't tried it yet, but i have my doubts.
Last edited by flyboyx; 10-06-2009, 08:50 AM.
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Can you do me a favor and post a pic of your EWS module and ECU? Does the ECU say "MS41.1" on it?
Sorry, I hadn't done my research, you're right about EWS3.
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Thanks for posting all of these details. I'm sure I will use a lot of this info someday.
I'm planning on buying a salvage MZ3 and doing a full OBDII swap into my e30.
If you have a donor car with all of the modules and wiring harnesses, why do you have to splice into the E30 harness vs Replacing with Z3 harness and components?
I'm sure there is a good reason for doing what you are doing, I'm just confused.
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this is the x6031 plug. i am thinking about splicing the few wires i intend to use from this plug into the x20(eliminate this x6031) to make the engine compartment less cluttered, but at least here is a baseline. the 15 pin x6031 is commonly used by bmw in bazillions of automatic cars as the plug to transfer wiring from the transmission to body.Last edited by flyboyx; 02-19-2009, 07:22 PM.
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here are my 4 wiring diagrams that follow. this one of the x20 body harness to c101 body side harness. there is a hell of a lot of research here. please look these over closely and feel free to pick my diagrams apart if you can. any constructive criticism will be well received. revisions will be posted as they come in.
edit a quick edit 06 Oct 09: for those of you that have read the complete thread, you know that i have changed a few things from these diagrams. as of this date, there are about a half a dozen wiring changes i have made to make this engine run properly in my car. when i do get my swap finished and running with no check engine light fault codes, i will post a revised version of these diagrams. in the meantime, you can pm me with specific questions and i will answer them to the best of my ability. i have found that my wiring situation is quite different than all the other diagrams posted on this forum. i think these will probably only apply specifically to 99 and 00 Mz3. when i get my revisions completed, there will be many basic guidelines here that will be useful in a variety of situations.Last edited by flyboyx; 10-06-2009, 08:31 AM.
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well, i haven't updated in a while, but here is what has been going on with my project. this is a photo of the body side of the mz3's wiring harness that i pulled out of the car. i think if you have the car and the time, this is the way to go. pictured is the body half of the x20 and also the x1805 that plugs into the ews 3d(the large white plug in the photo below). i also have a little harness for the x6031 plug as well, but you get the idea. these harnesses are going to be spliced into my e30's wiring. there is no particular reason for the length of the individual wires other than i followed them to the termination point to cut them off. there may be ten feet of wire hanging from the plug on a wire that only needs a foot, but i figure its better to take the whole thing so i can minimize the splices during the solder phase.
looking at the etm diagrams is one thing. however, there is no way to quantify the knowledge and associated learning you achieve by taking a cars wiring harness apart to trace/label each individual conductor. sounds cheesy, but it sort of gives you a zen of understanding about your car. i can sit here in front of my computer and type on this thread all day, but nothing will get you there like doing it yourself
Last edited by flyboyx; 02-21-2009, 02:10 PM.
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Next time "PrtScrn" and paste into ms paint or any other graphics program and save / attach ;)
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here is a link to some educational material for bmw's ews. it coversews 1(which is a joke) ews 2 and ews 3. there is a lot of info here here that i didn't know. it is pretty technical and not the easiest reading, but if you are going to do a swap and maintain ews2 or 3, i would say its a necessity. http://www.europeantransmissions.com...0EWS%20BMW.pdf
after reading through the material, i know that i have ews 3d in the mz3. it is very similar to ews2 except there is only one ews module instead of 2. also, ews 3 uses a rolling code system that changes the code every time the engine is started. apparently it is important not to attempt to start the car with either the dme or the ews module disconnected from the electrical harness. this would result in one of the modules being out of phase with the other and result in a no start. sounds like that would need to be reset at the dealer.
there really are only 2 wires that i am concerned about hooking up at this point. according to my diagram below(top left corner), pin 15 from the ews is a blue/red/yellow wire that travels to pin 10 of the "alpine anti theft module" and also pin 4 of the body electonics control module. additionally, pin 13 of the ews is a black/green wire that travels to pin 15 of the body electronics control module. these wires tell the ews if the doors are in a locked state. if the signal shows locked, then ews won't allow the car to be started. i need to figure out how to connect these the the e30 central locking system. as you can see by the diagram, those items show transisterized switches, so i don't think it should be to hard.
here is how the wires on the ews 3d module pin out:
1 terminal 31 ground (brn)
2 terminal 30 goes to a 5 amp fuse power in hot all times
3 p/n input. (manual trans) goes to hall effect switch on clutch to complete a circuit if clutch is depressed. to gnd if not.
7.5 amp fuse hot in accy, run, and start
4 diagnostic bus data link (wht/violet)
5 engine speed to instrument cluster engine speed (bk) to pin 20 of x20 plug
6 bar release code input
7 starter output (bk/ylo) goes through pin 18 of x 20
8 ign starter switch input from ign sw (gn/bk)
9 terminal R 7.5 amp pwr in
10 ring antenna (blu)
11 ring antenna (wht)
12 reserve (x)
13 locking states (blk/grn)
14 data link to dme (grn) goes through pin 7 of x 20
15 unlock car (bl/rd/ylo dashes)
as i stated above, i don't have all of these figured out yet. as i make new discoveries i will change this accordingly.Last edited by flyboyx; 02-04-2009, 11:24 AM.
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Originally posted by matt View PostEWS3 started with the e46... you should have an EWS2 box. There are a couple good wiring diagrams on here, it's not hard to make work.
Get it running well stock, then worry about modding it.
ews3 is what the etm says. the wires that i pulled out of the harness match the color coding stated in the manual. let me know if i am missing something.
btw, i thoroughly agree with you about getting it running in stock form initially. i want to have a baseline to get a feel for how it should run and also clear any check engine light issues if possible before i even switch to the obd1 manifold.
for some reason, i am thinking that 1998 was the first model year for the e46. am i in uncharted territory here? from what i can tell by comparing my etm diagrams to the ews2 diagrams that etxxz posted in his wiring kamasutra, there is one major difference between the two versions. it appears that ews2 has two different modules. one main and one transmit/receive module. for my setup, there is only one box that appears to contain both functions. it has a plug containing about 15 wires or perhaps a few less. the main starter wire from the ignition switch as well as the wires for the terroidal antenna are all included in this 1 module.Last edited by flyboyx; 02-04-2009, 09:24 AM.
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EWS3 started with the e46... you should have an EWS2 box. There are a couple good wiring diagrams on here, it's not hard to make work.
Get it running well stock, then worry about modding it.
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Originally posted by matt View PostYou aren't actually going to retrofit EWS3 are you? I assume that was a typo.
The car will run perfectly fine with no OBDII port BTW. All the same data is available at the 20 pin diagnostic port.
thank you for your comments. yes, i am planning to run ews3 for lack of knowledge of any better options. in looking at the wiring diagrams, it doesn't look that hard? i have already pulled the wiring out of the harness. i am planning to run the engine stock in my car. the only software i know of to delete ews requires a "stage 2 or 3" upgrade or some crap like this. i wouldn't mind doing the upgrades, except most people i know that have done the maf, injectors, and software upgrade usually wind up spending a lot of money and have a car that runs worse than it did before they started. if you or anyone else has any better options, please let me know.
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You aren't actually going to retrofit EWS3 are you? I assume that was a typo.
The car will run perfectly fine with no OBDII port BTW. All the same data is available at the 20 pin diagnostic port.
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