Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

E30 M54 Swap Guide

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #91
    I used a 03 Cobra hydro booster for my brakes and steering. Worked out great.

    Comment


      #92
      Swap MS45 TO MS43 ECU

      [QUOTE=Jordan;4616592]

      [B]M54 E30 Swap


      Wiring:

      You should start with a E39 or E53 engine harness. If your engine came from a Z3 or a E46 you really don't want to use this harness as the ebox is on the drivers side behind the strut tower on those cars. On the E39/E53 it is on the passenger side, leaving you ample room to mount the ECU in the factory location for the E30, above the glovebox.



      X6011 is a translucent white 12 pin connector block found in the e-box of the donor vehicle, and is part of the main engine harness.

      X6011 needs to have a wire run from pin 5 (which comes from starter connection 30h) to C101 pin 15. This will provide ground for the K5/K7 unloader relays and enable your power windows/sunroof to work. The starter backfeeds 30h with B+ during starter motor engagement to allow maximum amperage to the starter motor.

      Since the MS43 harness will not have a 20pin diagnostic port you'll want to leave yourself some manner in which to reset the SI lights as they do their thing. Grounding C101 pin 11 then turning the key to accessory will reset the oil service LEDs, leaving it grounded a bit longer will reset the inspection. You can either leave yourself a pigtail under the M42/S14 firewall wiring covers to manually ground out, or you can wire up a diagnostic port exclusively for the use of resetting the SI lamps.

      MS43 ECU controls the fuel pump relay by grounding terminal 85. Either construct your own fuel pump relay setup from the original E30 unit, or use a relay with pigtail removed from a native MS43 car. Wiring is as standard for a 5 pin BOSCH relay. The OE BMW relay is probably a lime green TYCO.

      The primary engine harness requires no real modification and will be used as is. The secondary harness which connects to the chassis, automatic transmission and the rear O2 sensors will be heavily pruned.

      MS43 harness as removed from an automatic E39 530i:


      Automatic wiring and other extra crap removed:


      What you're left with:


      Labeling the C101 while I was figuring out both sides of the wiring:


      I also elected to use my engines original MS45 valve cover with the pencil coils. This requires you to repin the X60005 MS45 ECU connector into the correct wiring for the MS43 ECU. The engine will NOT start if you do not repin, and may even damage the ECU. The power connector on the MS45 coil harness will need to be changed as well so get that from your donor too.





      There is also a pencil coil type harness for MS43 cars that will work without modification if it is from a late run MS43 vehicle. The ETK seems inconclusive about this on the production dates, so I would advise you double check the pinout to make sure of what you have.




      MS43 ECU:



      There is a EWS Delete test file freely available from a user "Daniel F." He has a seriously informative Wiki page on his MS43 musings. Please refer to his page you can find the file(s) there.
      http://www.ms43wiki.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

      Nothing really needs to be done to the ECU to start the engine and drive the car except having it flashed to remove the EWS protection. Without this the engine simply will not start. It will have a slew of faults stored in short order for communication errors with its buddies it expects to talk to on CAN, but these will not affect drivability. They would set a MIL/CEL but since the output for that is also on CAN the E30 cluster CEL bulb is not going to turn on....

      These are the codes you can expect (perhaps more) with just the basic EWS delete Daniel F flash.:


      This may present a problem to guys in California for example, but it's a non issue for some of us.

      Additionally without modification of the ECU code the lack of a Vehicle Speed Signal will put the engine into a limited performance mode, dropping the fuel cut to 5500rpm or so.

      Mark D'Sylva and Markert Motor Works both offer ready made tunes for the ECU intended for use on non-CAN chassis like an E30 to get you everything you need and none of what you don't.

      Now, if you want to get your MIL/CEL working you're going to need some method of capturing the binary identifier for the MIL trigger. Garry Peterson "gpeterson" on here sells just such a device tailor made for this purpose. It is $250 and can be programmed to your specific desires, as it has additional features as well. It allows for ECU CAN control of a PWM aux fan like found on M54 cars via the factory temperature sensor in the lower radiator hose. It also tells the ECU when the A/C is on to raise the idle, and allows for ECU control of the A/C compressor so the ECU is allowed to make the final decision on when the engage the compressor clutch so that it can switch it off during wide open throttle, engine temperature too high, etc.

      Finally it has one additional output that can be programmed to do any number of functions.

      It looks like this:











      Does that all what i need to change (x6005) i mean or there's another pins too ??
      About the x6011 can you explain it more please ??

      Comment


        #93
        M54 swap

        Nice work Jordan as always! Great write up as well. This is the first time I have read this. I am in the middle of swapping my rebuilt M54 engine with the ESS blower attached into my M3. Its an interesting project.

        Blake

        Comment


          #94
          m54 swap e30 transmission questions

          So the past few months ive been stock piling parts to do the m54 swap and I recently bought a ZF 5 speed transmission form a 2002 Z3M it also included the driveshaft. I still need to buy the clutch and flywheel but I have been looking into a light wheel flywheel for the m54 and a stage 1 clutch for the z3m tranny. My two questions are; Would a m54 lightweight flywheel work with a aftermarket z3m stage 1 clutch? If they're not compatible then can I use a z3m lightweight flywheel on the m54 with an aftermarket z3m stage 1 clutch. The other question is, Is the z3m driveshaft the correct length to go between the stock e30 lsd and the z3m tranny? Or would I have to do half z3m and half e36 driveshafts?

          m54 lightweight flywheel: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...saAvhzEALw_wcB

          or
          http://racehead.com.au/products-page...54-heavy-duty/


          z3m stage 1 clutch: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...tch-kit-fx100/

          Comment


            #95
            M54 sawp in a 635sci

            Hello folks, I am a newbie and know this is an E30 forum but I am hoping it will work on my planned M54 with a manual into my 1986 635csi, any suggestions?


            Thank you in advance Sirs!

            Comment


              #96
              FYI

              I haven't cut or moved any mounts for the accelerator pedal. I just notched the metal plate on the mounting bracket that the bolt goes through to the stock pedal stopper and used a hex head bolt.
              bolted straight in after that.
              Attached Files
              RHD OBD2 M50b25 turbo build thread:
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384800

              Comment


                #97
                Originally posted by Jordan View Post

                Then you need only connect a vacuum line to the FPR from the F connector on the intake boot, and use a factory quick disconnect fuel hose from the FPR to the non return fuel rail. Fuel input and return are handled neatly at the frame rail.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	FPR1_zpst3z6jxat.jpg
Views:	1117
Size:	79.7 KB
ID:	9947143
                I have this thread saved as my reference for the last 6 months. Im planning on doing this on my E28. Have the engine already and just sorting out other parts. I just want to confirm I understand the FPR installation, its not mentioned here but the M54 is referred to as a returnless fuel system.. but its not actually returnless is it? I think (from reading online) it doesnt have a return line in the fuel rail.. so does the bottom line in that image (with blue arrow pointing left) get connected to the factory fuel return line to the tank? The other two are input (to FPR) and then output to the fuel rail?
                Is this correct?
                Last edited by kodachrome; 08-25-2020, 04:51 AM.

                Comment


                  #98
                  Originally posted by kodachrome View Post

                  I have this thread saved as my reference for the last 6 months. Im planning on doing this on my E28. Have the engine already and just sorting out other parts. I just want to confirm I understand the FPR installation, its not mentioned here but the M54 is referred to as a returnless fuel system.. but its not actually returnless is it? I think (from reading online) it doesnt have a return line in the fuel rail.. so does the bottom line in that image (with blue arrow pointing left) get connected to the factory fuel return line to the tank? The other two are input (to FPR) and then output to the fuel rail?
                  Is this correct?
                  Yes that is correct. The threaded fitting is the "in" from the fuel pump. The upper fitting going the same way as the threads is the return to the tank. The opposite one is to the engine.

                  Last edited by redneckvtek; 08-24-2020, 01:22 PM.

                  Comment


                    #99
                    Originally posted by Jordan View Post
                    Fuel Supply:

                    The M54 family of engines expect to run with a fuel pressure of 3.5bar. The factory E30 fuel pump can easily handle this task. You'll need to fit a regulator however. On a native M54 car the fuel pressure regulator is part of the long fuel filter assembly. There really is no good place to put this unit on an E30. It will not fit in the rear where the factory E30 fuel filter goes, and it looks awful strapped to the frame rail in the engine bay.

                    My solution was the use the factory E30 fuel filter, and insert the S54 fuel pressure regulator apparatus inline at the frame rail. This mounts to but unscrews from the S54 fuel filter. You'll need to remove and discard the S54 5bar regulator, and install the MS43 3.5bar regulator pulled from the fuel filter.

                    Then you need only connect a vacuum line to the FPR from the F connector on the intake boot, and use a factory quick disconnect fuel hose from the FPR to the non return fuel rail. Fuel input and return are handled neatly at the frame rail.




                    Clamping a hose on the smooth portion of the quick connect fitting as shown is *MAYBE* ok on the return line, but outright *DANGEROUS* on the pressure line.
                    It looks like OP has a correctly made fuel hose on the pressure side, but don't skimp there.

                    Use the correct quick connect fittings... it's easy.

                    Dorman 800-782 for 5/16 or 8mm pressure connections:
                    https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-101643-800-782.aspx



                    Note the dual barbs for dual hose clamps on the pressure line.

                    I think there's also a single barbed fitting for the return line, but I don't have the part number right off. Also, obviously the pressure fitting can also be used on the return side.

                    Comment


                      That fitting is $20, and you need two.

                      This is the OEM BMW fuel line, which avoids POS dorman stuff.
                      BMW Fuel Line - Genuine BMW 16122229410



                      Just push the 5/16 fuel hose over the bulged part of the fitting and put the clamp there. Then use Fuel Injection hose (which you should be using anyway.) Get good stuff. Gates 27340 Barricade MPI Fuel Line Hose is SAEJ30R14 rated.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	Fuel Hose.jpg
Views:	1078
Size:	75.2 KB
ID:	9948210


                      The other side is the bigger issue. The threaded fitting (gold colored above) doesnt come with a NEW OEM bmw part 13537830368. Neither does the circlip needed to hold the M54 FPR into the housing. That PN is BMW 13531736234

                      The threads are M12x1.5. You need a M12x1.5 Metric to 5/16" Barb adapter. The threads arent "sealing" so it should come with a crush washer of some sort.

                      I have seen someone machine the stock BMW piece into a barb adapter also.



                      There are two alternatives to this:

                      1. Non US Fuel Rail 13531427335 comes with the FPR on the rail. This is a 2-way rail which IMO is preferred. Would be a bolt on option for any M54. Downside is its $400+ new, and I have not found any Used ones in the US or on EBAY with us shipping. If you have connections in europe they can be had used for <$100 on ebay. They came on M52TUB20 (323i, 523i etc)

                      2. M50 intake manifold swap. This has its own challenges, but lets you just use a US M50 fuel rail which has the regulator integrated, and already has the correct 3.5 bar FPR and the circlip installed.









                      On another subject - Cruise Control

                      Has anyone gotten cruise control working with this swap? the MS43 DME handles cruise control internally, but I presume it gets a CANBUS signal from the stock e46 steering wheel controls? I have not had time to dive into this deeply yet, but want to make this happen as I routinely take my e30 on long trips and will hate losing the cruise.

                      Comment


                        Couldn't you also try using the E46 330i fuel filter and regulator. Doesn't it take a vacuum line from the engine? besides fitment is there any reason this wouldn't work?
                        91' 318is 90' 325is

                        Originally posted by Sonny
                        Buy the E30s, they ain't gonna last long
                        E30 can make you, E30 can break you
                        "He who controls the Nova's, controls the Boomers"

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by Motheye99 View Post
                          Couldn't you also try using the E46 330i fuel filter and regulator. Doesn't it take a vacuum line from the engine? besides fitment is there any reason this wouldn't work?

                          Yes, that works just fine. Issue is that it doesnt fit against the frame rail well in a e30 (frame rail is smaller than the OD of the filter/regulator combo), the fuel hardline would need to be cut, it would be in a really vulnerable spot, etc.

                          That filter is really long and wouldn't fit near the tank where the late cars filters go.
                          It also doesnt fit under the brake booster well where the early cars filters were. It just looks awkward almost anywhere in the engine bay.

                          Also, that vacuum line is not critical. the vac line is ONLY for recapture of fuel if the diaphragm in the FPR ruptures. I have never heard of that happening. The FPR is not variable based on vac or anything like that, and will be perfectly happy making 3.5bar of fuel pressure with that nipple open to atmosphere.

                          Comment


                            The coolant hose Jordan used to go from the heater core lower port on the firewall to the plastic tube running under the intake manifold is too expensive now to be a good option for me. Has anyone else found a good alternative?
                            It looks like all you need is a relatively "S" shaped hose of the correct diameter


                            PN 17127548223 is currently approx $120 from the cheapest online source I can find.


                            Click image for larger version  Name:	hoses_zpsdd2nincz.jpg Views:	0 Size:	76.7 KB ID:	9948575


                            Here is another photo borrowed from the original build thread showing the "y" which is stated to come from an E90. It doesn't appear to be the same "y" in the specified PN. I will continue to research tomorrow.

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	5A5392EF-99AA-4E64-B577-1720F3B25AC8_zps7epz1q4l.jpg
Views:	1039
Size:	80.1 KB
ID:	9948582
                            Last edited by redneckvtek; 09-01-2020, 08:59 PM.

                            Comment


                              I haven't ordered that specific hose for my swap for the exact same reason. really all you need is the QD that goes to the block and maybe 6in of rubber hose after it. Then a Y shaped connector and more hose.
                              91' 318is 90' 325is

                              Originally posted by Sonny
                              Buy the E30s, they ain't gonna last long
                              E30 can make you, E30 can break you
                              "He who controls the Nova's, controls the Boomers"

                              Comment


                                Update on cooling system setup.


                                Radiator Hoses:
                                When using the "late" e30 radiator, the following hose can be cut in half to provide both the Upper and Lower sections. You will still need qty 2 quick disconnects to adapt to the thermostat.

                                Gates 21900 Lower Radiator Hose
                                Click image for larger version  Name:	21HCVY9H4YL.__AC_QL70_ML2_.jpg Views:	0 Size:	4.6 KB ID:	9948829
                                Fitment is a 2 wheel drive 1991 Toyota Previa


                                I used the quick connects off of some e46 hoses I ordered by mistake.


                                The hole for the radiator exit temperature sender on this hose is too large to thread for the e30 gauge's sending unit safely. The hole measures 13.5mm and the sending unit is M14 threads with a average diameter in the 13.8mm range. I dont trust plastic that much so I don't recommend this hose. This is the stock e46 lower hose.
                                Click image for larger version  Name:	869330_x600.jpg Views:	0 Size:	24.0 KB ID:	9948832


                                You can also use the E39 UPPER hose (PN 11531705223) which has a hole for bleeding coolant. I used this hose in my first build (I did not install the OE temp gauge). This hose will require you to source another straight-through quick disconnect.

                                I think you can tap this one for the E30 sending unit. The OD of the bleed screw boss is 16mm
                                Click image for larger version  Name:	1116968_x600.jpg Views:	0 Size:	23.5 KB ID:	9948831


                                The other option is to use a coolant gauge adapter like this:
                                Click image for larger version  Name:	a856abcc-39a2-4031-ad24-84bacca9e806.jpg Views:	0 Size:	16.0 KB ID:	9948828
                                I didn't specify a size for that, because YOU will have to determine it for yourself. Some hoses are bigger at the ends and smaller in the middle. Some are consistently sized. Pick the size that matches your specific hose.

                                Install it in the UPPER radiator hose. The m54 coolant is leaving the block and headed to the radiator through this hose, which is where you want to capture temperature.
                                If you have an aftermarket water temperature gauge, this is the best solution for its sending unit, as there is no other place in the cylinder head to install it. When the thermostat is closed, water will still flow through the upper radiator hose, then out the small hose to the overflow tank, then back to the engine.





                                Jordan also mentioned this in his build thread, You can use this hose for the lower hose without any changes required. I have not tried this personally so I cannot verify.

                                11 53 1 716 642



                                So thats the radiator hoses sorted, with multiple options depending on what you have on hand and how your car is setup.
                                Last edited by redneckvtek; 09-04-2020, 07:10 PM.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X