No guarantees on how helpful any of this will be to anyone else, but throughout my project people have been asking for CAD or for parts to follow along on their own cars... I haven't wanted to do this up until now (preferring to concentrate efforts on getting my car done, and worried that I'd get everyone to the same point in a project that couldn't be completed) but we have a solid year of running on hoveringuy 's incredible machine using these parts, and he's getting very lonely. There are a few things to know if you download these and rely on them:
1. The best guide is just following through the other threads here (the huge discussion thread and my build thread) and whenever you see a part that was laser cut, you should find it flattened in this file.
2. The engine arm geometry proved to be too tricky for a "self assembling" engine arm. I have jigs that were built from my early prototypes that my engine arms and hoveringuy's engine arms were assembled on. Someone will need access to either these jigs or my prototype arms to make engine arms, but once a set is out there my hope is that they'll get copied if people like this design. Hoveringuy's set isn't available because they're firmly secured to his engine block under the hood and kicking ass daily. I'm in the Seattle area and I haven't had electrical service to weld here at my house for about 6 months (long story) so we'll need to make arrangements. My original plan was to tack these up myself and distribute them as "you finish welding."
3. There's been dispute over the longitudinal position of the engine (that it could be moved back further.) My engine position was partially decided by wanting to use the N52 3-stage intake, which is enormous, and would conflict with the e30 heater hoses coming out of the firewall if I went back any further. It would also create clearance problems with my choice to use the Bosch electric brake booster. If you have any other combination of intake and brake booster, hoveringuy has a best guess that if you re-locate the motor mount holes in the arms when you have them cut by 8mm, you'll still have 10mm clearance between this pan design and the steering rack. This isn't enough to be able to cut a second hole (it would turn into a slot) so it's not possible to cut both and choose later. You could further modify both the oil pan and engine arms to shift further back, but you'd start creating conflicts that we haven't discovered.
4. There is an absolute ton of work to do in addition to having these cut, but I think anyone tackling this is well aware.
5. The only piece that I made for the swap that isn't included here is the adaptor for the oil pick up tube to the oil pump, because it was turned on a lathe and not cut from plate (so the sourcing is very different). If you have access to a lathe, this is a very easy part to reproduce.
1. The best guide is just following through the other threads here (the huge discussion thread and my build thread) and whenever you see a part that was laser cut, you should find it flattened in this file.
2. The engine arm geometry proved to be too tricky for a "self assembling" engine arm. I have jigs that were built from my early prototypes that my engine arms and hoveringuy's engine arms were assembled on. Someone will need access to either these jigs or my prototype arms to make engine arms, but once a set is out there my hope is that they'll get copied if people like this design. Hoveringuy's set isn't available because they're firmly secured to his engine block under the hood and kicking ass daily. I'm in the Seattle area and I haven't had electrical service to weld here at my house for about 6 months (long story) so we'll need to make arrangements. My original plan was to tack these up myself and distribute them as "you finish welding."
3. There's been dispute over the longitudinal position of the engine (that it could be moved back further.) My engine position was partially decided by wanting to use the N52 3-stage intake, which is enormous, and would conflict with the e30 heater hoses coming out of the firewall if I went back any further. It would also create clearance problems with my choice to use the Bosch electric brake booster. If you have any other combination of intake and brake booster, hoveringuy has a best guess that if you re-locate the motor mount holes in the arms when you have them cut by 8mm, you'll still have 10mm clearance between this pan design and the steering rack. This isn't enough to be able to cut a second hole (it would turn into a slot) so it's not possible to cut both and choose later. You could further modify both the oil pan and engine arms to shift further back, but you'd start creating conflicts that we haven't discovered.
4. There is an absolute ton of work to do in addition to having these cut, but I think anyone tackling this is well aware.
5. The only piece that I made for the swap that isn't included here is the adaptor for the oil pick up tube to the oil pump, because it was turned on a lathe and not cut from plate (so the sourcing is very different). If you have access to a lathe, this is a very easy part to reproduce.
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