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N52 engine mounting (Z4 arms)

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    #16
    Hi there,

    Assuming we're using the stock subframe with E85 Z4 engine arms, a GS6-17 transmission (for the g260-like fit)... what is the combo of OE driveshafts that make it all work together? The more off-the-shelf parts this swap can use the more tolerable this swap will be for folks.

    I saw in another post that the Tesla i-booster works with the 3 stage intake manifold using the E85 mounting arms, so it seems like this is piecing together better and better!

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      #17
      Originally posted by Bored View Post
      Hi there,

      Assuming we're using the stock subframe with E85 Z4 engine arms, a GS6-17 transmission (for the g260-like fit)... what is the combo of OE driveshafts that make it all work together? The more off-the-shelf parts this swap can use the more tolerable this swap will be for folks.

      I saw in another post that the Tesla i-booster works with the 3 stage intake manifold using the E85 mounting arms, so it seems like this is piecing together better and better!
      yep, stock subframe. I had run a custom subframe for the my rear sump M54 and it was kind of a pain, I wanted to keep this as stock as possible.

      I have heard that an E36M automatic front section is the ticket. I just had a shaft fabricated for $600 from scratch. Came with new joints, and CSB, fully balanced. Just wasn't worth piecing used shafts together but I know that can be done.

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        #18
        Did you use NW Driveline? If so, what location? I've had less than stellar results with the Seattle location...
        84 325e - 91 325i - 92 318 touring - 91 Trans Am - 01 S4 avant - 03 S-type R - 96 F350 - 15 SS - 84 Biturbo - 91 Defender

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          #19
          Originally posted by iansane View Post
          Did you use NW Driveline? If so, what location? I've had less than stellar results with the Seattle location...
          Yep, Seattle location. I had one go-back issue where the rear yoke wasn't e30 and needed to be turned. The nice thing is that when I moved the engine back that little bit they shortened the shaft and rebalanced for pretty cheap. (stock shafts can't be shortened, I guess..)

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            #20
            I would recommend using the AKG 24v mounts with this swap. I don't know what other brands may work but I know for sure that the Revshift ones do not, they will shift the front of the engine too far towards the intake side.

            Here are the measurements after installing them.
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            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0185.jpg Views:	186 Size:	268.2 KB ID:	10110692

            The crank is much closer to the driver's frame rail and I had to pry the transmission quite a bit to get it mounted.


            AKG poly mounts are not available for about 6 weeks so I ordered aluminum ones to use for mocking exhaust stuff up. AKG told me that the geometry is the same between the two.

            They are symmetrical, the revshift ones are not.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	akg.jpg Views:	184 Size:	125.8 KB ID:	10110690

            Here is the driver's side revshift compared to the AKG.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	driverdiff.jpg Views:	188 Size:	127.9 KB ID:	10110691

            Here is the passenger side comparison.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	passdiff.jpg Views:	182 Size:	124.2 KB ID:	10110693
            Last edited by Striker01; 09-16-2024, 08:03 PM. Reason: Changed wording for right hand drive guys.

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              #21
              Here is a comparison of the driver's side mounts on the subframe.
              Click image for larger version

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              Click image for larger version

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              Here are the crankshaft to frame rail measurements. Much better!

              Click image for larger version

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              Click image for larger version

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              The transmission mount lifted right up onto its studs, without a fight. If you use these AKG transmission mounts you will have to enlarge the holes in the mount and the ears on the transmission.

              Click image for larger version

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                #22
                Hey guys I'm in the early stages of planning my N52 engine swap. I want to create a bit of a cruiser - something that's got plenty of power but not going to rattle me to pieces. Do you think that there is enough room to run a rubber engine mount with this set up? Cheers

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by CarlKB View Post
                  Hey guys I'm in the early stages of planning my N52 engine swap. I want to create a bit of a cruiser - something that's got plenty of power but not going to rattle me to pieces. Do you think that there is enough room to run a rubber engine mount with this set up? Cheers
                  I'm on rubber mounts. The Noise, Vibration, Harshness is not as good as E90 hydro mounts, but it's not bad like poly, either.

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