N52 Swap Discussion

[hoveringuy]

If you are using the stock N52 sensors, you should be able to pull oil temp (for example, I was able to pull oil temp in my 128i simply by the addition of a 135i cluster) from the DME. Not sure what would be needed to translate this to a gauge, though.

The oil temp comes from the sump module that also does the oil condition and oil level analysis. I deleted that and just have the dipstick so I have no other way of getting oul temp.

My goal is to ensure that it's Ok under the worst conditions and then not worry about it...

[Donkeyshins]

The oil temp comes from the sump module that also does the oil condition and oil level analysis. I deleted that and just have the dipstick so I have no other way of getting oul temp.

My goal is to ensure that it's Ok under the worst conditions and then not worry about it...

Good to know. Thank you for clarifying (wasn't aware that it was doing temp on top of condition / level).

[Donkeyshins]

I'm planning on upgrading my N52 in my 128i to include the oil / coolant heat exchanger (have all the parts in a Rubbermaid bin in the garage, just need to get my son's car running again first so he isn't borrowing my E82 all the time) as it is a relatively simple job (other than messy because oil+coolant).

[hoveringuy]

A coupla small updates in progress....

My oil temps without any cooling was running 265F at the track which is not horrible but I really need a cooler, so fitting the integrated oil/coolant heat exchanger to see how much it comes down. I'd be happy with anything below 230 and I can change to a dedicated oil cooler if I need to in the future (N54 style). Still almost an inch of clearance between the cooler neck and the radiator.

Also, to make room for a potential revised intake I'm moving the coolant reservoir to the battery tray. I HAVE THE CAD FOR THIS if anybody wants it.. It will now tee in at the heater core, need to move radiator bleed nipple to the right side as well. It will be more-better.

I also changed the VANOS solenoid O-rings while the radiator is out. Impossible to do with the radiator in. Very easy job and the old O-rings were pretty hard.

[moatilliatta]

I'm guessing expansion tank hose size determines the flow of water filling system minus the amount of air that can bleed back to it?

Other than that no effect on cooling, I suppose it could be 3/8 or even 5/16 hose could be used in theory?

I've thought about downsizing expansion tank hose size on some builds for packaging.


Were those oil temps in the pan or at the Oil Filter Housing?

[hoveringuy]

moatilliatta The outlet hose is still bigger than the bleed hose from the radiator, so the operational impact will be exactly zero. The practical impact will be that the system will take a few more minutes to fill, but my hose is smaller, shorter and out of the way. I also have a multi-level tree in the tank to help visually determine fluid level

For temp I had a calibrated thermocouple in the middle of the pan through the dip tube. "actual" oil temp could have been higher!

[hoveringuy]

moatilliattaAlso, the baffle isn't there primarily to be a baffle

That's just a bonus.

It's a structural element because I have large, flat sides and 10psi really adds-up!

[hoveringuy]

My mini-depot overhaul is complete. I'm pleased with the utility of the new reservoir, the level sender works great! I need to add a flow restrictor to the bleed line because the 3/8" line flows WAY too much (but it is effective)

Coolant temperature seems to take longer to come up to temperature, it's freezing outside presently, so that's a lot of the reason, but I also wonder if it's because the oil is now being heated by the coolant....?

I had a small weep from the (original!) coolant pipe O-ring, as well as small oil weeps from the also-original VANOS and cam sensor O-rings. Everything else looked fine.

Also a picture with the two styles of coolant pipe, with and without oil heat exchanger bleed nipple.