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e30 M3 minor rust repair.

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  • GOOBER
    replied
    this thread is amazing. subscribed. anxiously awaiting updates. GOODWORK!!!

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  • xworks
    replied
    After all that, it's on to the next job on the list, cavity waxing.
    All the box sections and cavities need a coating of wax as the acid
    dipping had removed all the original stuff. This can be a bit of a messy
    job and if you get this wax on the outside paintwork you'll need to use
    white spirits to remove it. A situation thats worth trying to avoid you'll
    agree. So, some soft sheets and some masking tape....








    The experienced one's among you will figure out why it's far less grief
    just to go out and buy some new sheets rather than borrowing what you were
    sure was "old and no longer needed sheets".
    Anywho, with the shell rapped up, first up was to glue on the new roof
    insulation....



    again the spit helps greatly with this job.....











    Then we have the cavity wax, I went with Dinitrol.....



    it comes in 1 litre "shultz" type tins and you need a "shultz" style
    gun to screw on to the top of the can for spraying it....



    the gun itself comes with a normal type spay nozzle which is useful for
    spraying open areas, also need though is a "wand". This is a 2 foot piece
    of plastic tubing that screws into the gun one end, and the other end has
    a jet with multiple holes to spray it out in all directions, which is perfect
    for inside the box sections.....




    all rigged up and ready to go, the tin of wax is dipped in a bucket of
    hot water for a while first. This thin's out the wax and makes it spray
    out in a finer mist giving better coverage....



    For the actual application itself I just picked one area at a time, picked
    out a few holes along that section that would allow the wand to fit in
    and spray the full length and then taped off every other hole on that
    section. The tape is used for two reasons, the first and obvious one
    is you don't end up looking like a wax candle at the end of the day
    from overspray leaking out, and the second is after you've sprayed
    that section you can peal off the bits of tape to see if they've a good
    coating of wax on the underside, so you know you've got 100%
    coverage along the whole length inside.....



    No wax on any of the bits of tape and you've missed a bit.....







    probably the trickiest piece to do was this section....



    it has more bloody holes in it than a fishing net....





    took a lot longer to tape up than actually wax....



    bit hard to tell from the pic, but this is actually the area under the scuttle
    panel out where the wiper motor lives. Everybody knows how these cars
    like to rust in here so it got a heavy coating of wax....



    inside the roof pillars and skeleton got a good coating....







    Out of the whole car I only had to drill two holes to get access to an
    area to coat it and it was this little box section. Bit hard to picture it,
    but its part of the rear chassis leg box section. The hole at the front
    is where the rear subframe mounts up to and at the rear of the pic
    is the back spring platform. The last decent hole to get the wand into
    was off nearer the back of the car and the wand just wouldn't reach
    all the way up to this bit.....



    on the inside of the box section there was no joy either, there were
    holes but they were too small for the wand to fit. So picked a hole
    in the middle of the section each side....



    and drilled it out large enough to fit the wand....





    With most of the box sections done we could move on to some of
    the larger open areas needing wax. This is the area under the rear
    side window, bit hard to figure from the pic I know, but the metal
    in the top in the pic is the inside of the rear quarter panel....





    and the back half, thats the front of the rear inner wheel arch on the
    right....





    There's quite a bit to wax overall in the shell and it took two full days
    till I was happy I'd got everywhere. The other thing thats handy to
    know is that if you are leaving the gun for a few hours or over night the
    wax will dry out and clog it up. So, a little aerosol lid full of thinners or
    white spirits run through the gun cleans it out spotless...



    after the shell waxing was finished the last of the internal sound insulation
    could be fitted....





    and then the final bits, the two front doors....



    sound deadening first....



    and then wax....









    All in all we got through just about five tins of the stuff....



    and then the fun really started, where the hell do all these go again....



    And thats about where we're up to at the moment. Next up, taking a break
    from the shell for a while and starting on the driveline. First up for
    overhaul will be a differential thats looks like it went down with the Titanic....



    till next time....
    Last edited by xworks; 03-20-2016, 12:09 PM.

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  • xworks
    replied
    Evening all,
    After stripping the removable panels back off the car again and
    packing them away safely it was on to the next task. Sound deadening.
    That sticky black crap thats a ball breaker to get off when your stripping
    a car down. Still, going back on should be a walk in the park, he said,
    stupidly.
    Back at the start of the rebuild I'd thought a bit about this and had
    looked into the price and availability of aftermarket products, i.e.
    Fatmat and Dynamat, and had considered covering the whole floor
    pan to make the inside as quiet as possible. Then I got a chance
    to see a sheet of Dynamat in person, and it struck me, this stuff's
    heavy. If I cover the whole floorpan with this I'm going to be adding
    a fair bit of weight to the car. And on further reflection I don't actually
    remember thinking at any stage "sweet jesus this car's a bit noisey in here."
    So I decided I'd replicate the original sound proofing instead, as someone
    who almost certainly knows a lot more about this than me, had sat down in
    the beginning when this car was being designed and decided exactly how
    much was needed and where it should go. Plus, a part number search
    shows the e30's sound proofing material is still used in all the modern
    bmw fleet, so it must be half decent?
    With that decided next thing to do was search through the pictures I'd
    taken on disassembly and any other pic's I could find online to make paper
    templates of the original shapes. Which came out like this....










    I added in a couple of small extra bits, one either side on the rear
    inner wheel arches to help keep down any extra drone from running
    wider than standard rear tyres....

    and a little bit at the bottom of each speaker pot....


    then I ordered up some soundproofing from Bmw. Originally I'd
    intended to get 12 of the 50cm X 50cm sheets to do it all, but
    upon making the order I was informed that that part number had
    been superseded with another part number (pn.51488165271),
    and the new one was twice the price. So, I assumed the sheets
    were probably twice the size and to be on the safe side went ahead
    and ordered 7.
    Imagine my suprise when I went to collect it and found I now had
    enough to sound proof the starship f*cking enterprise!


    The sheets are a little over 3 times the size of the original part number.
    On the bright side I could now cut all the sheets out fully without
    having to join bit's together....


    I've seen other pic's on the net of sound proofing and it looked soft
    and easy to trim, god only knows what I've ended up with, cause
    this stuff's as ridgid as a plank and brittle too.
    So, templates marked out....


    ruler and stanley knife to cut out the straight pieces...



    and for curved bits a little heat from a heat gun softens it just nicely
    for cutting with a scissors....




    With all the bits cut out, next up was to get the body work ready for
    them, a quick clean with thinners gets the surface clean of the little
    spots of buffing compound scattered throughout the inside of the shell....


    and then lay the sheet in place, see what I mean about rigid....


    So, a little help from the heat gun....


    and the stuff falls down neatly in to place, but it isn't stuck on yet....


    For that it needs to be heated up a little more. Which brings out the
    gas blow lamp....


    and a little hardware store roller to press it down evenly.....


    a little practice shows that just enough heat at the surface of the sheet
    to turn it a wet shade of dark black allows the underside to get a good
    solid bond....



    heat gunned....


    blow lamped....




    Next up was another small job to tick off the "things to do encyclopaedia".
    The roof band that covers the join at the rear roof extension....


    first up was to fit the 2 little sealing strips to the little
    recesses on the underside of the band....



    I spent 20 minutes poking in the first one. before realising on the
    second one that they could slide straight in from the end, in 5 seconds.
    I know, i know, it's a miracle I've made it this far.....


    new clips popped in to the roof....


    and sledge hammer the roof band down on to them...


    There's one large rivet to go in either side of the band to finish it off
    which I've yet to do.
    Last edited by xworks; 03-10-2016, 02:58 PM.

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  • Il Duce
    replied
    beautiful!!!!!!!!!

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  • Spaz
    replied
    Originally posted by xworks View Post

    BOLL*CKS TO THAT CARRY ON,
    I plan on driving the door handles off it 7 days a week
    till fossil fuels run out. There's no way I could put this
    much effort into a car only to keep it "garage queened" for the
    next owner to enjoy. Sure it'll get stone chipped and scratched
    as time goes on, but I guarantee you I'll enjoy every mile while
    collecting them.

    Atta boy :D

    Leave a comment:

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