Filling holes without a welder.

[ortholithiation]

Hey George

If you are going to fill holes I really suggest bondo hair, short or long. Use putty to finish, if at all needed.

Everything is two part, bondo brand is just not that great.

[george graves]

All i can tell you, do not get bondo. I use plastic 2-part filler. It's sold at autozone and advance on paint isle for $2-3.

Ok - here is a stupid question. Are you saying don't use bondo brand? Or don't use a filler that isn't a 2 part product(filler&harder)? All the "bondo" I've seen IS a two part product. (not my pic)



Or is this two part plastic filler something I've never seen before?

[dirtysix]

1: Tap it back with a ball peen hammer so its a little concave.
2: Put some tape across the back of it so you dont lose all your filler.
3: Apply filler across hole and indent from hammer.
4: Sand smooth.
Repeat 3&4 as necessary.

Wont last forever but will be good for a few years.

Edit: You need to at least sand the paint to roughen it and give the filler a "key".

[ortholithiation]

Fill the little hole with wire. Just tack around the edge and fill her up.

JB weld works and some sheetmetal works pretty well.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Plugged a vac leak on a vibraty as shit 1776cc for at least six years, til he sold the car at least.

[george graves]

I can get it welded - I think I might. I sure like a good home-drew, DIY method though.

Farbs, how long do you think a penny and JB would last?

[koole30]

If you cannot get the holes welded go to your local auto paint store and buy "kitty hair". Make sure you grind off all of the paint and scratch up the metal (including inside the holes) with 36 grit sand paper.

[DRTSRFR]

A skilled welder can fill the hole without any backing.

When I was taught, we used a little scrap on the back to tack to, then fill with wire. I don't do it that way any longer.

[Farbin Kaiber]

JB weld a penny on the backside, sand, then apply filler. I've repaired VW engines in the past with that method.

[george graves]

Don't worry. It's nothing epic. My car needs a lot of body work. It's ugly.


1.) I if took it to a welder, would he try to make a tiny circle of metal and then weld it in?
2.) Or would be fill the hole with just the wire from the welder?
3.) Or would he want to tack a scrap of metal to the back side of the hole and then I'd use filler to fill in the hole?

[DRTSRFR]

Back in the day when I was doing these types of "repairs" i would lay the ball of the hammer ON the hole and hit the face of the hammer with another hammer.

If you're gonna use JB you might as well use it as the filler too.

Now the curiosity is killing me...

[george graves]

Thanks! So then the correct way of doing it with welding I assume?

[Aptyp]

Thanks Aptyp - but what's the round hammer do? What's it for? A little more information would be required.

Sorry Graves, thought you'd know what I meant. Anyway, it was just described above. All i can tell you, do not get bondo. I use plastic 2-part filler. It's sold at autozone and advance on paint isle for $2-3. 1 Package would probably fill all of the trim holes, but 2 would definitely do the trick.

I make it smooth with plastic spreaders and once it dries I use dremel and/or sand paper to smooth it out.




I use this on spoilers and bumpers as well.

[george graves]

Thanks. Hmmm. So just make a dimple around the hole to give a bit more area to work with the filler. Yea, it does sound like that method wouldn't last forever.

How about dimple the surface slightly - just so it's not proud. Then JB welding some scrap metal (the stuff they sell at home-depo in 6" x 12" sheets) behind the hole?

Did you mean INvisible, smooth and PAINTABLE?

I wanted to say that the finished result would be visible, and need to be Paint-able.

[DRTSRFR]

You use the round end of a ball peen hammer to give the hole a concave profile. It gives the putty more surface area, and helps with feathering the repair flush. When you apply the filler, it will create a "noodle"(think Playdoh)on the backside which will help keep the putty from popping back out.

Disclaimer: This is not a long lasting repair/fix. It won't take long for the putty to start cracking at the transition to metal. The expansion characteristics of putty and steel are very different. The smaller the repair, the quicker it will crack.

"visible, smooth, and printable" ??

Did you mean INvisible, smooth and PAINTABLE?