How bad is my paint: just buff that out?
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Alpinweiss is cheaper. I could do a fiberglass trunk and hood tho... hmmmmmmmmmmm...Leave a comment:
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You had a cleared hood? Or an oxidized hood? If the paint looked faded and poor after I wet sanded the clear, but better than now, I'd run with it... I'm not looking for show car, or even "hey, that car's pretty nice looking."Leave a comment:
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I had a dodge daytona that looked like this and i wet sanded it and buffed it out. The hood only cause i knew i was wasting my time. It still looked like crap and just faded back to what it looked like to begin with.Leave a comment:
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So the question now is, back to stock w/ the Arktisblau, or do I do it in race style w/ gloss white?
There's a chance I'll be selling this very nice eta on the east coast in July, and I am sure slapping on a coat of gloss white on the flat areas will kill the resale.
But it'd be very cool.Leave a comment:
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+1. I would take it down to the sealer and reprime it and block it out. that is how my trunk lid and Roof looked like on my 325is. I sanded it all down with a DA, primed it and Blocked it. Looks great now.Leave a comment:
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yes im f*cking positive about that. I know the difference between a de-laminating base/clear paint job and an oxidized single stage paint job.
that blue car needs to be sanded down with a D.A until it feather edges then you can go over it with primer sealer then re-paint it. theres no quick cheap fix for it.Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedI disagree with that. I start with 2000, then move to a variable speed polisher. Wool is the more agressive, finishing is done with various foam pads.Leave a comment:
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I guess it is time for gloss white.
Edit: actually, do I have to take it down to primer, or can I get my bro to sand it down to the paint, and respray clear? I'm not looking for show car. Just "decent dd".Leave a comment:
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read everything. You should start with an orbital.Leave a comment:


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