The beginning of body work

[evil_twin]

ha ha, alright well I will have to pick up a bit nicer of a DA then that I see.

[der affe]

the more $$ you spend on a D/A the better job it will do to a point. after that it is a fatigue issue, if it shakes like it is having a seizure, it will take a toll on you if you use it day in and day out.

wow! look at my unemployed ass post whore like farbin!

[der affe]

D/A' s can cost a mint! my snap-on was $600 when i bought it.
now astro makes a pretty good copy for under $100. that is palm sanders.

for your regular D/A where you are going to do the rough nasty stuff the $20 -$30 harbor freight one will work fine. the next choice up the line would be the CP (Chicago pneumatic) i think it is right around $120

[evil_twin]

really? huh, I never knew that paper would be such a big issue. What about using a DA, do you recommend that?

[der affe]

sand paper, look for mirka, fandelli, klingspore, etc. you don't have to buy 3M as it is over priced.

go to an automotive paint supply and purchase your paper there (not lowes/ace/or the depot) they will set you up with good paper

[evil_twin]

what is paper?

[der affe]

spend the $$ on good paper too. it may seem like a bunch of $$ at first (and it is), but better paper will stay sharper longer and not clog as much

[evil_twin]

sweet deal. I haven't bought anything yet. I am going to start my collection of paint stuff soon, I just need to get prep stuff started first.

[der affe]

IN A HEARTBEAT!!!!! you will just fuck things up with a cheap block. spend the $$ on good shit or buy the balsa. eventually they both crap out though.

[evil_twin]

Balsa wood eh? I should choose that over a cheap sanding block?

[der affe]

get the 3m dry guide coat too. easier to work with. DO NOT SPILL IT!!!!!!!
it will make a huge mess.

once you get everything flat and finished to 180 grit, take your finish (palm ) D/A and a "soft pad" and go over everything with 220. then you are ready to prime.

DO NOT USE PRIMER AS A FILLER!!!
it will shrink over time and cause the sanding scratches to show through the paint (shrink).

[kenika65]

balsa thats sweet, good info.

[der affe]

evercoat RAGE for your heavy stuff. work it wet as best as you can, because when it dries it sands like concrete

evercoat oem metal glaze for the glazing putty

for sanding blocks get balsa wood. yea i know it sounds low $ and it is. it is hard to fuck up a panel and carve a grove in it with balsa wood VS sanding blocks. sanding blocks can warp over time, even the expensive ones, no mater who makes them. go to your favorite craft store and get 2 strips of each thickness of the wood (balsa only, no bass wood ETC) the thicker is used for the straight stuff and the thinner stuff for the more curved stuff. it is easy to cut to what ever shape or length you need

[Devil Inc]

That gold colored filler is "something" chromate if I'm thinking of the one you're thinking of. Works really well and shrinks very little if at all.

Edit: USC makes a gold filler named Kromate-Light, but the container is diferent than what I had used. May be the same thing, just different labeling.

[evil_twin]

Aww, no love left?