Needing Crash Rebuild Advice!
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My advice, remove everything that will get in the way of steering - test drive it - make sure there is nothing weird going on. If you have done an inspection of axle/control arm components and the test drive shows nothing abnormal - begin cosmetic/bodywork rebuild. -
You can fix this, no problem.
I wrecked my last e30 and fixed it from this:
to this: +1 for parts cars
you may need to pull your radiator support back a little, I had that jeep in the background with a winch. Worked amazingly. You got this..Leave a comment:
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you could get a new shell and put the m-30 from the 535 in it along with the stuff from the other car. ;)Leave a comment:
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if you are trying to rely on it for a DD it will be down for a long time while you fix it.
look for a swap car and transfer everything you have done to the car over.
did you do all the work on the wrecked car yourself or did you pay someone else to do the work??
if you paid someone else, i can see your hesitance in wanting to get rid of the car, but that also belies the fact that you are not prepared to repair your crash yourself. if that is the case
I did not do all the work myself, I paid a much reduced rate and helped do the repairs and upgrades. I have local rural garage, that charges very good rates. Over time we became friends and I pay a percentage of what the job would regularly cost, because I do tie up his only rack when we do these jobs. I also use his tools, air, power, knowledge and skills. I could do that all again.
The hardest part is that this is my first BMW E30 and it has been excellent! It is an is, my friend has an 325e and it is much less fun. I am sorry to say, but there must be some differences besides the engines? If I get another, it must be an is, i would love an M, but not likely. I test drove a E28 1988 535is and even it did not hold a candle to my 325is. If it is totaled, it will greatly be mourned!
DennisLeave a comment:
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that was just the most blunt way i could get the point across to you.
if your rail is swayed you will at least have to put it on a drive up rack and first pull it straight to length then correct the sway by pulling it in what ever direction it needs to go.
core support:
it will need to be drilled out (spot welds) then re welded in. not all that hard to do....if you have the right tools....spot weld drills and at least a MiG welder along with the ability to weld. then it must be cut in and sprayed with paint.
rail is a whole different story.......
i am not trying to shit on you for wanting to try it, but w/o experience you will not be very happy with the results and it will take you a long time to do it incorrectly.
if you are trying to rely on it for a DD it will be down for a long time while you fix it.
look for a swap car and transfer everything you have done to the car over.
did you do all the work on the wrecked car yourself or did you pay someone else to do the work??
if you paid someone else, i can see your hesitance in wanting to get rid of the car, but that also belies the fact that you are not prepared to repair your crash yourself. if that is the caseLeave a comment:
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Understood!
I have not spent much money on parts yet, I will take it and have it examined by a shop to see how bad it is. If it is a bad as you believe, you are right another E30 to enhance would make sense. I will post the results of what i find out.Agreed...
I am willing to bet a dollar to a doughnut that the hit pushed the hole front end over to the left side by a decent amount. It will take someone with a frame rig and some knowledge along with deeper pockets than it would be worth to try to fix that. Seriously why spend easily $2k+ to salvage a car worth at best that in good order. Find you a car to swap everything over on and keep on trucking (just stay away from icy bridges and guard rails afterwards)...
I understand you like the car but there are plenty more e30's out there and there is not a reason why you should be married to just this one (unless it is a //M car)
;)
No one knew the bridges had Iced until it was to late! I was one of the first to discover the icing. But, i will stay away from icy bridges in the future!
Thank You
DennisLeave a comment:
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yes, they will.
if you have little to no body work experience, especially in heavy collision, you might want to write it off if it has done rail damage.
you won't be able to fix that with just a framing hammer and 2 X 4's
no offence meant by that, but what you have there is beyond the novice back yard mechanics tool box capabilities. if you want it done right.
do you have some one who is experienced to guide you and loan you the body tools that you will need?
bodywork is my racket, i speak from experience
Agreed...
I am willing to bet a dollar to a doughnut that the hit pushed the hole front end over to the left side by a decent amount. It will take someone with a frame rig and some knowledge along with deeper pockets than it would be worth to try to fix that. Seriously why spend easily $2k+ to salvage a car worth at best that in good order. Find you a car to swap everything over on and keep on trucking (just stay away from icy bridges and guard rails afterwards)...
I understand you like the car but there are plenty more e30's out there and there is not a reason why you should be married to just this one (unless it is a //M car)
;)Leave a comment:
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Thank you for your guidance!
I will admit, I have very little to nil body work experience. I have helped use a hydraulic unit to bend damage back out, fill, and sand. I have also bolted on replacement body panels.yes, they will.
if you have little to no body work experience, especially in heavy collision, you might want to write it off if it has done rail damage.
you won't be able to fix that with just a framing hammer and 2 X 4's
no offence meant by that, but what you have there is beyond the novice back yard mechanics tool box capabilities. if you want it done right.
do you have some one who is experienced to guide you and loan you the body tools that you will need?
bodywork is my racket, i speak from experience
I understand this is not something I can fix with big hammer and a 2x4, but thank you for confirming.
I have a local body shop that will work with me to do what I can not do. I want to try and do what I can myself to keep the expenses down.
I am sure the frame horn on the passengers side is bent outward and the tray above and to the right of that frame rail is crumpled. I hoped those could be straitened! The right top of the radiator carrier is bent in. The radiator carrier probably need replaced for proper headlight bucket mounting?
I am working on locating a complete parts donor body or picking from salvage yards. I have been in contact with several already. Sadly to say, car they had listed have already been crushed to remove from inventory, had received no parts interest! I was a little late, but I am not giving up!
I am using diagrams from realoem.com to locate damaged parts, inventorying and searching for what I need.
No offense was taken! Any additional guidance you might have is very much appreciated.
Thank You
DennisLeave a comment:
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yes, they will.
if you have little to no body work experience, especially in heavy collision, you might want to write it off if it has done rail damage.
you won't be able to fix that with just a framing hammer and 2 X 4's
no offence meant by that, but what you have there is beyond the novice back yard mechanics tool box capabilities. if you want it done right.
do you have some one who is experienced to guide you and loan you the body tools that you will need?
bodywork is my racket, i speak from experienceLeave a comment:
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Body parts?
Will fenders, bumper and hood fit from a four door on a two door?Leave a comment:
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Rebuild versus Replace?
I understand the idea of buying a non running car and inplanting my engine. But, a car is a lot more than the engine. I have replaced my rack and pinion with a new one, replaced the drive shaft, redone and modified the exhaust, etc.. To bring another up to were I have this one by transplanting all the replacement or upgraded parts is going to be expensive and time consuming.
The costs of repair vs replace and transplant may be very close. I would understand replacing if I had wiped out the cab and main structure.
What about the part you can't put a value on. The bond, or attachment to this little black German driving machine. I know this may sound corny to some of you, but I have let go of a lot of cars over the past twenty five years of driving. That I wish I would have put a little more work into and kept. Such as my first car in 1984 a two door 1957 Chevy Bel-Air, or my second car in 1985 the 1977 280Z. Then over the years there was 1969 Dodge Dart GT, 1964 Plymouth Valiant 273 v-8 Hurst 4 speed, 1967 Buick Skylark, 1982 Plymouth Horizon GLH, 1977 Dodge Monaco, even that little 1982 LeBaron GTS! I don't want to add this car to the list.
Help me save it, what other front end parts may I need besides thos listed in my first post
Thank You
DennisLeave a comment:
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For the amount of time you'll spend doing bodywork, you could probably find a non-runner, a headgasket or timing belt car with a clean body, and shove your motor in it.Leave a comment:
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Frame Rail?
The frame rail run up to the bumper mount? The guard rail hit the bumper and rode up over it. I know I may be mistaken about where the frame rails runs, is there a diagram of the front clip and body structure? The end of the frame could be straitened?
I would hate to scrap it, I have grown very fond of it. It may yet become my money pit.
ThanksLeave a comment:

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