E30 OEM KEY OCD Thread

[Fusion]

So after some digging, it seems that CODE 5000 and 10001 are key codes up to 5000 or over 10001, in other words locks with 9 (?) wafers or 11 wafers.

So some locks had less wafers I guess due to no central locking or no dead lock.

Also the "general" key with plastic head can be used on all locks as long as a locksmith does it for you, since the only difference I can see in the very first post/picture is that the key that's not supposed to open the trunk and glovebox has a few positions at their lowest setting, otherwise the key shape and length seems to be the same.

[Fusion]

I have a few questions for the key gurus out there.

1] I recently bought a rebuild kit for the driver side lock. It worked great. I haven't had time to put the new lock back in and last week I lost the only key I had. Meanwhile, I installed remote CL, but can't go anywhere without the key. Will a locksmith be able to cut a new key if I take apart the lock and give him the 11 digit code? I actually wrote it down when I rebuilt the lock, but I'll take it apart and check just in case.

There are 6 pins on top and 5 pins on bottom. Is the code from the inside out in a zig-zag pattern (top-bottom-top-bottom...).
I'll give them the lock to test out.

2] There are two part numbers for the illuminated key -
General key illuminated (blank) 51211151014 *CODE 5000
General key illuminated (blank) 51211900894 CODE* 10001

Wtf does code 5000 and 10001 mean?

3] I will also buy the no thrills cheapest blank (32321109801). As I understand, this also opens the doors, just not the trunk and won't deadlock, correct? I want the locksmith to first try on this one since the damn illum. key now costs $90.

[DaveH91e30]

Make your own "Valet Key"???

I hate going to the dealer, just a PIA and hassel for them to tell me everything I need has to be ordered

I Just took possession of a 89 e30, only came with 2 keys "S type with plastic" these will open/close all the locks and "dead bolt" the drivers door lock.

So I am missing the "Valet" and the "Wallet" key and the "key code"

I was thinking of just going to the hardware store and having two keys cut from the ones that I have.

One of them I would just cut out the "handle part" and make a wallet key no big deal...

With the other one I would file down key cuts at the end from key pins 4 on and also shorten the key i bit to match what a standard "I" length key is.

From what I understand from this post is that the "Thickness" of the "I" only prevents it from being inserted into the glove box and trunk cylinders. But does the length and ground down key pin areas prevent from turning in the glove box, trunk cylinders, and dead bolt the drivers door lock?

I might have to get a blank "I" standard key and have it cut and modified by grinding down in key pins just to have it not be able to be inserted into the glove box and trunk???


What are your thoughts???
TIA!!!

Ok here's my update, After obtain a copy from the hardware store I ground down the tip of the key and the last three pins landings. I used a BMW lock refurb kit to see where the last three pin would line up. The key still goes into all the locks, ignition, door, glove box, and trunk and still was able to turn it. The only thing I was not able to do is to "deadbolt" the driver's door.... So I think the "standard I key" with the thicker ridge is the only thing preventing insertion into the glovebox and trunk... Now onto finding a blank for that key...

[bradnic]

Agreed. I do this for any E30 I plan to keep

You can also replace ALL your locks with brand new parts by ordering 51-21-1-904-727. THEY WILL NOT BE KEYED LIKE YOUR ORIGINAL KEYS THOUGH. Comes with the full set of 4 BMW keys. Hat tip to@jph for the ECS link. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51211904727/

[NeverEnough02]

The full repair kit is backordered, thought about getting one late last year and couldn't get an ETA.

Hopefully these shortages are temporary. I would really like a new ignition tumbler vin coded.

[roguetoaster]

The full repair kit is backordered, thought about getting one late last year and couldn't get an ETA.

[bradnic]

yes they're still available. I posted pics early up in the thread. If you're keeping your E30 I highly recommend the full key repair kit. Price has dropped recently, though it's still $200+. Includes every single lock and all of the keys brand new. Of course the dealer coding for your car will no longer be valid at that point.

[BeirBrennerE30]

Does anyone know if the triangular wallet key is still available? I ordered a set of all 4 keys, the other 3 showed up right away but the wallet key didn't a week later and the dealer wants to cancel the order even though they said it didn't show up as NLA in their system.

Just FYI it is still available... the dealer I was working with just apparently didnt want to order it.

[BeirBrennerE30]

Does anyone know if the triangular wallet key is still available? I ordered a set of all 4 keys, the other 3 showed up right away but the wallet key didn't a week later and the dealer wants to cancel the order even though they said it didn't show up as NLA in their system.

[IS300E30]

How does the dead-bolt work?

I have my illuminated key. When I put it in the driver side door, I need to turn it all the way to the right. I feel some resistance, then I turn it even further, which I feel the dead-bolt engage.

However, I cannot pull out the key from that spot (turning the furthest to the right spot), I need to turn it back to the middle to take the key out. Is that normal? Or should I be able to pull the key out from the furthest turn/dead-bolt spot?

[rfordo]

Reviving an old thread for my first post on the forum.. be nice to me. No don't, I can take it.

Just bought an 87 325IS and cannot get the trunk to lock. I have two plastic (no light) keys with "S"s on them (one in an original BMW leather wallet, heard they're worth at least $400, I am willing to sell).

Both of my keys double lock the driver door, work on passenger door, glove box, and ignition. Neither will turn the trunk lock at all.

Was my trunk lock replaced and the key lost? Can I rebuild the trunk lock to match my 2 keys that work elsewhere?

[NeverEnough02]

Did you pick up one of the 771s that sold on BaT last month?

You may be better off buying a brand new full lock set.. comes with a full set of new keys

Yes, I bought the silver one with 89k miles.

[bradnic]

Did you pick up one of the 771s that sold on BaT last month?

You may be better off buying a brand new full lock set.. comes with a full set of new keys

[NeverEnough02]

I recently bought an MTECH 2 convertible and it came with the valet key and a copy of that key. Locks were stuck in double lock position all unlocked.

Thanks to all of the info here, I ordered a vin matched illuminated key for my car and it works excellent on the passenger door and trunk. Total price was $87 with 6.5% sales tax. The blank was $63. I received it in 3 business days. It spins the drivers lock so I am guessing the arm broke off in there. I will pull the panel to take a look soon enough.

The new key is not working in the ignition either. I requested current price on the coded ignition tumbler today, I will keep you all posted on the price.

Getting this car to where it should be key wise is quite nice!

[bradnic]

Yo @2man sorry I missed your posts. Yes trunk lock rebuild kits exist. I’ve done a couple of them without issues.

It’s pretty easy to carefully disassemble the existing cylinder and get the tumbler combinations you need. Then just use the same numbered tumblers in the new cylinder

Drop me a PM maybe I can assist