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E30 OEM KEY OCD Thread

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  • george graves
    replied
    Nice walet. Source?

    Leave a comment:


  • 2mAn
    replied
    So here we are again....



    This ended in disaster with the Aluminum Monster, so I’m wondering if I should yank the current fubar trunk lock and disassemble it to get to correct sequence. Only problem is I can’t really get my trunk open right now... not sure if I should drill it out or ...?...

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
    any tips here?


    I think BMW sells a rebuild kit for all the lock cylinders would just have to find the part # on Realoem. As for the sticky lock. Get some permatex graphite grease. To help loosen it up put a couple squirts in the key hole of the lock and then run the key in and out a couple time and also lock and unlock it. Should help free things up.

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
    Is there a generic trunk lock setup that I can pin to match the key? Im worried I have to buy the trunk lock from the dealership too and that plus the key can get pretty expensive for what Im getting back. The key I dont mind.

    Also, pass side lock feels a little stiff when unlocking/locking the doors. Is there something I can spray in there to loosen er up?
    any tips here?

    Leave a comment:


  • bradnic
    replied
    That doesn’t look repairable to me. You will need to order a new key. Important you have at least one functioning OEM steel key. Most US aftermarket keys are brass and cut from worn keys to begin with. You risk breaking them in the lock

    Good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • bostonvert
    replied
    My key fell apart somehow and I'm not 100% how to reassemble it...



    Do I slide the key further trough the hole as shown in the picture below or is there another way to reassemble everything?

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Originally posted by unitt01 View Post
    Final update :) got my key finally ! lol



    And as you can see they crossed off another part # and wrote down 1900875 which in realoem converts it to part # 51211900875.. anyways i'm really happy I got it and just a heads up to anyone who happens to go to the dealer and order their key with a vin# MAKE SURE YOU/THEY ORDER THE GENERAL KEY AND NOT STANDARD !
    I need to order one of these for my car.

    Is there a generic trunk lock setup that I can pin to match the key? Im worried I have to buy the trunk lock from the dealership too and that plus the key can get pretty expensive for what Im getting back. The key I dont mind.

    Also, pass side lock feels a little stiff when unlocking/locking the doors. Is there something I can spray in there to loosen er up?

    Leave a comment:


  • bradnic
    replied
    Post 29 updated with the part number and pic info @jph shared. also bought a replacement lock and key set for one of my cars. Price went up $30 from what @jph paid. and it's only gonna go higher.

    Leave a comment:


  • jph
    replied
    Originally posted by bradnic View Post
    That's great info!! Was there a single part number for the whole set? If so would you share please?

    Thanks!
    Sure thing. It's $245 on ECS but I'm sure if you shop around you'll find it a little cheaper.

    51-21-1-904-727



    EDIT: Looks like I paid $214 about 6-8 months ago.

    Leave a comment:


  • bradnic
    replied
    That's great info!! Was there a single part number for the whole set? If so would you share please?

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • jph
    replied
    Interesting info in this thread. I ordered an entire lock set from the dealer for around $235 and it had ALL brand new locks, ignition cylinder, and glovebox lock and inner latch. It came with 4 brand new keys just like shown in the first post. For me building the car from the ground up and only have one key with the car this made the most sense. Some dealers may tell you they can't order it because it's a "controlled item" but some will do it for you. Very happy with this purchase

    EDIT: The one thing I have found not included which would have been nice is the rubber gasket for the trunk lock assembly. Just a few bucks but didn't realize it until I needed it.

    Leave a comment:


  • RobTapps88
    replied
    My OEM light key has a tiny. signature inscribed on the opposite side of the S.. Light came broken so I modded it with a LED.. No point in getting new keys until I replace the locks

    Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • bradnic
    replied
    NICELY done! Sweet to see a new cut plastic head key - just like when the car was new!

    Please try your drivers door deadbolt, glovebox, trunk and pass door with both the standard and general key - let us know how it goes ok? Test them both with he deadbolt enabled and disabled..

    If you haven't rebuilt the door locks yet you may need to juggle things a bit

    Leave a comment:


  • unitt01
    replied
    Final update :) got my key finally ! lol



    And as you can see they crossed off another part # and wrote down 1900875 which in realoem converts it to part # 51211900875.. anyways i'm really happy I got it and just a heads up to anyone who happens to go to the dealer and order their key with a vin# MAKE SURE YOU/THEY ORDER THE GENERAL KEY AND NOT STANDARD !

    Leave a comment:


  • bradnic
    replied
    That is most definitely the standard/valet key. You need the general/master key. Since they won't tel you the part number they're ordering (strange), you could receive a coded wallet key or a coded plastic head key. Whichever one you get should have an S on it.

    If you do get a wallet key you will need to find a separate key head for it. I posted some pics of that part in the first few posts. I think it's NLA though, but you never know - check eBay

    Good luck

    ps "Coded" just means the key is cut for the tumbler combo that was assigned to your VIN.

    Leave a comment:

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