Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Window regulator and wiring issues, could use some guidance.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • m5james
    replied
    I was kidding...already did 15w40 Rotella though.

    Tl:dr? I don't know what that means.

    I didn't but I guess we could take them back out to clean them. There's a TON of resistance rolling up that passenger window manually though which doesn't make sense to me. My next thought it to loosen ALL the window and regulator bolts and then try again to see if things bind less but at the same time it's not like there's a ton of slop at the bolt holes that would allow adjustment anyways that would cause this much binding.

    Leave a comment:


  • Zambuzan
    replied
    Originally posted by m5james View Post
    Fine, this will get some replies...what oil weight should I use for my next oil change?
    10w40

    Pls do a tl:dr next time ;)

    Did you try regreasing the motors themselves?

    Leave a comment:


  • m5james
    replied
    Fine, this will get some replies...what oil weight should I use for my next oil change?

    Leave a comment:


  • m5james
    replied
    Really? Bump.

    Leave a comment:


  • Window regulator and wiring issues, could use some guidance.

    Bought the GF an 86 325 and it's a great little car but I'm trying to get everything working 100% percent. The latest issue to tackle is the window regulators. When we bought the car only the drivers window would move maybe 1/4" but it's since stopped completely.

    Seeing what they cost and not sure if the regulator was the issue or the motor itself, we removed the windows and regulators. Degreased and regreased the tracks until they moved butter smooth. Motors alone bench test fine. Motors attached to regulators bench test fine. Everything installed and plugged back into the car, yet the windows still don't operate via the window switches so I'm at a loss. They don't even light up when the parking lights are on. I removed the window switches, took them apart and cleaned the contacts, applied some dielectric grease and hoped for the best...still nothing. I then ran 12v from the drivers side window switch wiring harness and was able to get the drivers window to move but not the passenger side. When I jumpered the passenger side wiring harness (I had no pinouts, I just touched things in hopes to see window movement) and oddly the drivers window switch lit up...WTF lol. Fuses in the engine bay are good, I'm not sure if there's another fuse box to check.

    Before reinstalling the door panels, we rolled them both up manually via the allen bolt but the passenger side put up such a huge fight that it stripped the allen hole while she was cranking it. It was late on a Sunday night so I had the GF throw the door panels back on and I packing taped the crack at the top of the window. Fast forward to next weekend and she pulled the door panels back off starting on the passenger side. Low and behold she missed reconnecting the plugs together, but even after plugging them in, the window still won't operate via the button. I cut a flathead notch where the allen had stripped, but it's still a fight to roll the windows up or down and I have to push the glass from the bottom while manually turning a screwdriver to get the window to close fully. At this point I decided to jumper the motor with everything installed in the car.

    https://youtu.be/OetHpxzlwno

    Mind you I've only tested the passenger side jumpered to a battery this way, I've yet to have her repull the drivers panel and jumper it. On top of all this, both windows only roll down this far vs going flush with the window seals.

    Suggestions?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by m5james; 04-19-2019, 05:41 PM.
Working...
X