Hey guys, I did this tutorial video to show all of you how to build YOUR OWN E30 flyout windows using E46 rear window actuators. They are linear actuators and have 2 wires: Positive 12V and ground. Easy. they either go in or out. The mounting of the motors into the E30 is the hard part, but I think I've simplified that.
The youtube video below breaks down each section of the effort pretty easily to identify how you need to mount/wire/procure the parts you need.
If you are EVER interested, I can help. I can provide the brackets, but again, I detail the bracket placement and cut lines pretty easily. But not all of us have a mig welder, which does tend to hold many of us back. So if you are ever interested, I can provide the brackets. You can buy the motors and you're half way there.
The only real problem with this swap, and you MUST be aware of this, is the fact that you are losing your permanent method of affixing the window in place. With the original window flyout configuration, you have the manual hinge mechanism that you no longer have. Instead you have a "nub" that is glued to the window. It does not hold forever, but if the surfaces are clean and flat, you may get lucky enough to hold it for quite a long time and make a good seal on the window after it closes.
I was able to get this to a good spot with the adjustment on the base of the bracket I made, but you will need to trial and error.
So here is the quick breakdown on how to install. The video has much more detail:
Motor Mounting: Use the E46 mounts that came with the motors. Cut in the locations I specified and weld together as I specified. You can also make your own custom mounts, but I'd certainly keep the top part of the mount that connects the motor to the mount. That's probably best to keep.
Wiring: The motor has 2 wires. You use an E30 or E36 switch that has (typically) 4 wires. 2 for output to the motor and 2 for +/-. It's best to splice the existing E30 motors. If you have a car with manual windows and no window motor switches in the center console, feel free to grab switched power and ground from the other plentiful locations contained in the center console area. That should both light the switches and provide power to the motor when you press the window switch down (open) and up (close).
Window Affix: I used the E46 "nub" at the end of the assembly 51377020619, shaved it down to match the curvature of the window and installed it using rearview adhesive glue. Most any glue will do, but I find that the Loctite Glass Glue works best.
That's a very high level look at the installation. If you have any questions or reviews, post them here. Thanks for reading and hey, if you have a minute or two, subscribe to my YT channel so i can produce more cool content to embed here for free for you guys!!
Frank M
The youtube video below breaks down each section of the effort pretty easily to identify how you need to mount/wire/procure the parts you need.
If you are EVER interested, I can help. I can provide the brackets, but again, I detail the bracket placement and cut lines pretty easily. But not all of us have a mig welder, which does tend to hold many of us back. So if you are ever interested, I can provide the brackets. You can buy the motors and you're half way there.
The only real problem with this swap, and you MUST be aware of this, is the fact that you are losing your permanent method of affixing the window in place. With the original window flyout configuration, you have the manual hinge mechanism that you no longer have. Instead you have a "nub" that is glued to the window. It does not hold forever, but if the surfaces are clean and flat, you may get lucky enough to hold it for quite a long time and make a good seal on the window after it closes.
I was able to get this to a good spot with the adjustment on the base of the bracket I made, but you will need to trial and error.
So here is the quick breakdown on how to install. The video has much more detail:
Motor Mounting: Use the E46 mounts that came with the motors. Cut in the locations I specified and weld together as I specified. You can also make your own custom mounts, but I'd certainly keep the top part of the mount that connects the motor to the mount. That's probably best to keep.
Wiring: The motor has 2 wires. You use an E30 or E36 switch that has (typically) 4 wires. 2 for output to the motor and 2 for +/-. It's best to splice the existing E30 motors. If you have a car with manual windows and no window motor switches in the center console, feel free to grab switched power and ground from the other plentiful locations contained in the center console area. That should both light the switches and provide power to the motor when you press the window switch down (open) and up (close).
Window Affix: I used the E46 "nub" at the end of the assembly 51377020619, shaved it down to match the curvature of the window and installed it using rearview adhesive glue. Most any glue will do, but I find that the Loctite Glass Glue works best.
That's a very high level look at the installation. If you have any questions or reviews, post them here. Thanks for reading and hey, if you have a minute or two, subscribe to my YT channel so i can produce more cool content to embed here for free for you guys!!
Frank M
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