just so you know, i looked the entire owners manual before i posted. what i needed was the "instruction booklet" which for some reason was not posted on that site (found it on an alternate site).
the owners manual on JVC's site just had operating instructions
(see, i'm not a lazy bum!)
help! audio getting quieter!
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Dude, WTF? I posted a direct link to the deck, and the owners manual is on the same page!
Look directly left of the picture of the deck, there is a link to the owners manual.
And yeah, those 2 white wires are added...I think I said that at least twice.Leave a comment:
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nevermind, i found one for the jvc head unit... is there a place online where i can find one for the BMW's wiring? and what's with all these white unlabeled wires? (are they OEM?)Leave a comment:
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oddly that website did not have the wiring diagram (at least from what i could find :()Leave a comment:
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I'm going to try going to a reputable audio shop tomorrow and have them fix the wiring. Which part of the wiring was specifically wrong (what color combos) that might have caused the overheating issue and would need to be fixed? Also, I looked in the back and did not find an amp...
Thanks,
AurashLeave a comment:
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hi luke,
i wasn't able to find a wiring diagram for the deck -- is there a way to figure it out without having it? ... should any good audio shop be able to figure this out and fix it?
thanks,
aurashLeave a comment:
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OK, here are the basics: you cannot connect the decks output negatives to ground, or to each other.
The easy way to do that is simply don't use the decks negative output.
However, the guy who did that install didn't know that the BMW wiring uses black stripe for positive, so he basically had his ass kicked by a 20 year old factory amp integrate.
However, it also looks like he added some other wiring, like he was trying to bypass the stock amp. He obviously had no clue.
IF you see solid blue or yellow, that is the input to the fader. Red or black strips on blue or yellow are inputs to the amp, assuming your "i" had one, or has one still.
So, how you do this is to use the stock amp to run the speakers, use:
Yellow/red as front left +
Yellow/black as rear left +
Blue/red as front right +
Blue/black as rear right +
ALL grounds go to ground EXCEPT (and this is absofuckinglutely crucial) DO NOT CONNECT THE DECKS SPEAKER NEGATIVE WIRES TO ANYTHING!!!
NOTE HOW i CALL THEM "SPEAKER NEGATIVES" INSTEAD OF "GROUND"...do NOT use them as ground...your deck will overheat.
So yeah, that whole thing took me longer to type than it does for me to do.
LukeLeave a comment:
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If the trunk has the stock amp, that means that the speaker level inputs are running to the amp? What would that mean in terms of fixing it? What are you currently thinking my problem is? (or is it too early to tell)
Will take pics of the trunk when i get homeLeave a comment:
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Dammit, those pics really don't help, do they?
Now we need to know what is in the trunk. That looks like it might be a partial rewire.Leave a comment:
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I was hesitant to show pics because it is very hard to see what is going on....
Here is what I got:






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HU WIRE COLOR -> CAR WIRE COLOR
SOLID GREEN -> YELLOW / ORANGE
GREEN / BLACK -> YELLOW / BLACK
GREY / BLACK -> WHITE
WHITE / BLACK -> WHITE
WHITE -> WHITE
PURP RED -> BLUE RED
PURP BLACK -> BLUE BLACK
YELLOW -> RED GREEN
BLUE WHITE -> WHITE
RED -> PURP WHITE
BLACK -> BROWN BLACK
HU DISCONNECTED:
ORANGE WHITE ->
CAR DISCONNECTED:
-> RED WHITE
-> YELLOW BROWN x2
-> BLUE BROWN
pics to comeLeave a comment:
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This morning I was pulling the head unit after driving the car for a bit, and the back of the HU was literally BURNING hot. It was so hot that I burned my hand.
I will have pictures of the wiring up later, thank you very much for the help!
-AurashLeave a comment:

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