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    I found the wrapped pairs, and the brown ones running into these clear taped stopping points, and the other wire continuing down to the black thing to the right of the shift knob. What am I doing.

    SamHurly on flickr

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      I took this picture with my mouth.

      SamHurly on flickr

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        Originally posted by Heyrr View Post


        I found the wrapped pairs, and the brown ones running into these clear taped stopping points, and the other wire continuing down to the black thing to the right of the shift knob. What am I doing.
        LOL for mouth pics...

        OK, so look at the pairs.

        You have yellow/red (left front +) twisted with yellow/brown (LF-), yellow/black (Left Rear +) twisted with yellow/brown (LR-).

        So, blue is right, same pattern.

        Ignore all other speaker wires, simply cut them out.

        Closing SOON!
        "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

        Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

        Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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          So what is that black thing, it needs a name, to the right of the shift nob. I can cut above that and just use the each twisted pair as their respective positive and negative?

          ...and just forget about the solid blue and solid yellow, and two solid brown wires that were originally connected directly to the stock unit?

          SamHurly on flickr

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            Because it seems when i cut the yellow/brown's and blue/brown's they will have made the solid browns that are connected to them in the plastic wrap (by my thumbs) obsolete.

            SamHurly on flickr

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              Originally posted by Heyrr View Post
              Because it seems when i cut the yellow/brown's and blue/brown's they will have made the solid browns that are connected to them in the plastic wrap (by my thumbs) obsolete.
              Yes, please...just cut all that fader bullshit out, use ONLY the 4 twisted pairs.

              I cut all wires the same length to keep it tidy, that is up to you.

              Closing SOON!
              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

              Comment


                Done did it. The only problem is the crackliness, which I assume should be fixed by bypassing the amp?

                And the right rear isn't getting sound, but sitting in the drivers seat, I can't say I can tell the difference, making me wonder if it ever played sound. Lol.

                SamHurly on flickr

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                  Did the bypass and everything, including the left rear, sounds great.

                  Thank you.

                  But... even when the key is out of the ignition, car off, the radio still has the ability to be turned on. The antenna motor was extremely hot too, so I unplugged that as the radio still works without it popping up. Is this a common occurrence? Possibilities?

                  SamHurly on flickr

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                    no, and you will likely find your memory does not hold stations...I would guess you got switched and constant backwards

                    Closing SOON!
                    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                    Comment


                      Which ones are those?

                      Also, my aftermarket units harness didn't have the (+12V ACC) Red, (ILL) Orange, or (AMP REM) Blue/White cords coming out of it, so their respective cords got capped..

                      SamHurly on flickr

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                        So, Luke after I called you twice I kept staring at it more and more and my brain turned off. I went out and bought the 50' of cable. From here I go ahead and run wire from the deck to the back of the amp correct? My brain has a habit to forget information when hungover and half asleep. Just a preemptive sorry for making you repeat yourself more than once. Car is a 1985 325E, no amp, fader.

                        Heres some pictures for fun:




                        Stupid early model always making things difficult.
                        I feel like I am over thinking this way to hard.
                        Last edited by Wardie; 07-05-2013, 08:50 PM.

                        Schwarz 1985 325e

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                          Originally posted by Wardie View Post
                          So, Luke after I called you twice I kept staring at it more and more and my brain turned off. I went out and bought the 50' of cable. From here I go ahead and run wire from the deck to the back of the amp correct? My brain has a habit to forget information when hungover and half asleep. Just a preemptive sorry for making you repeat yourself more than once. Car is a 1985 325E, no amp, fader.

                          Heres some pictures for fun:




                          Stupid early model always making things difficult.
                          I feel like I am over thinking this way to hard.
                          NO!!!!

                          OK, here is the deal: you connect the back speakers to the front speakers behind the deck, then cut into the speaker wiring behind the back seat.

                          You are in the wrong thread! You need the $500 stereo thread....

                          Luke

                          Closing SOON!
                          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                          Comment


                            This thread helped me so much! Thanks! My car is an 88' 325iX with premium sound, fader, and 5 wire setup (no twisted pairs). Stereo is an aftermarket Blaupunkt Acapulco... And it sounded awful!

                            Originally, it was wired all wrong under the dash and kept causing fuse 23 to blow and take out my dash lights and right side taillights.. It turns out that my wires for constant and switched power were different than what's shown on page 1 of this thread. Red/gray ended up being power.

                            So I rewired the deck and only the rears worked (with stock wiring and amp). After doing some digging, I realized the front speakers had been disconnected by a previous owner. So I ran new wires to the fronts, directly from the head unit. Finally, all four speakers were working! But.... It sounded like shit! Horrible engine whine through the speakers, weird cracklings and distortion. Thought one of the rear speakers was blown so I replaced them with some Alpines (SPS-510). Still sounded pretty bad. Finally just got up the courage to disconnect the factory amp, and repurpose the 4 yellow and blue wires to run the rear speakers, and, lo and behold, unbelievable sound! It was a bitch working in the trunk and trying to get the amp out, but once I did, the wires were easy to see and it only took me ten minutes to make the right connections.

                            As I said, the stereo sounds awesome now, unbelievable... I might even take the Alpines out and go back to the stock rears, seeing how you've all given them great reviews. Besides, the stock speaker covers won't fit over the Alpines now.

                            But, I do still have one strange issue. Like Heyrr said in one of his posts, my stereo will still turn on without the key in the ignition. I am baffled, as everything seems to be connected perfectly. I wonder if it has anything to do with bypassing the amp? Anyone have a solution? Thanks guys!

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by ringmeister81 View Post
                              , my stereo will still turn on without the key in the ignition. I am baffled, as everything seems to be connected perfectly. I wonder if it has anything to do with bypassing the amp? Anyone have a solution? Thanks guys!
                              I am pretty sure that is a "Feature" of your Blaupunkt, like factory MBZ or VW decks. They turn on and off with the key, but can be turned on at will.

                              Might be an RTFM issue.

                              Luke

                              Closing SOON!
                              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                              Comment


                                Thanks Luke... You must be right, and I don't have the stereo manual to see if that "feature" is mentioned. Radio came with the car... I checked and rechecked all the wiring, and its all good. Red/gray is constant power, violet/gray is ignition, and red/green is illumination. It turns off when I turn off the car, so I don't have to worry about it draining the battery... At the end of the day, it sounds a million times better than it did, so I'm satisfied. What do you think about putting the stock rears back in? Will they be better than the newer Alpines?

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