Originally posted by Gubernaculum
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Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass
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Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostAbsolutely, yes. Thanks for bringing this up.
My reasoning is simple: no one who uses a diagram like this even knows who Bruce Brisson or Noel Lee are, much less Ray Kimber (who sells wire that ISN'T snake oil) so the quality of the wire you are gonna get at Monoprice or Home Depot (or get 1000X screwed on at your local car stereo whore shop) is WAY worse than what is already in your car: twisted pair, high copper content, generally excellent condition, neatly ran, no noise, etc...the stock BMW wires kick that shit out of 99.999% of the professionals out there, much less the neophyte installer.
Another advantage is that should you decide to add am amplifier to your system, you can simply connect in the trunk. Run your RCAs and all else is done!
Guys, again: please use the stock wire wherever possible.
Luke
Hey thanks for all the info you posted up about the car audio for the e30, I have a question about this, what can I do since I have an aftermarket stereo in my car and aftermarket speakers and it seems to me as if all stock wiring was pulled for aftermarket wiring, I pulled my stereo a few months ago and it seems theres no real harness behind the deck, just wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape.
Same goes for the speakers, all connections are just twisted wires with elec tape around them
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Originally posted by siazul View PostHey thanks for all the info you posted up about the car audio for the e30, I have a question about this, what can I do since I have an aftermarket stereo in my car and aftermarket speakers and it seems to me as if all stock wiring was pulled for aftermarket wiring, I pulled my stereo a few months ago and it seems theres no real harness behind the deck, just wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape.
Same goes for the speakers, all connections are just twisted wires with elec tape around them
Go look at the stock color charts for reference. Depending on the car (earlier cars are different, again, depending on model) you should have the same colors.
As far as what to do, that kind of depends on what you are looking to accomplish, right? I have helped literally hundreds of guys (and girls) get decent sound in their car, so we can get you set up too. Shoot me a PM wiuth what budget you have, or even post a thread about what it is you want to accomplish with your stereo install.
Thanks!
Luke
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89i model with non premium sound no fader and never jacked with bone stock HU. Wired via Luke's synopsis. The 9v battery and testing the speaker leads did the trick. Pulled kickpanel on left side and voila the twisted pairs for rears and left side were there. Had to strip back factory harness behind HU and found the twisted pair leads. Snip,snip,snip and snip. Confirmed with the 9v before hookup. Job done in 1hour. 9v battery tool removes any question before going to the crimpers.
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Originally posted by klavender1 View Post
[ATTACH]42910[/ATTACH]
Originally posted by klavender1 View PostI take it this is the amp?:
[ATTACH]42911[/ATTACH]
Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostI just wish I had the skills to draw a diagram and show it on the computer...you guys kill me.
Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostWhat year/model is your car? Do you have "Premium Sound"?
Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostYes, you sure can.Originally posted by Gubernaculum View Postyou don't have to be a genius to fix these cars, you just have to be patient, curious about how things work, and have a certain mindset. It's a good car to learn on. And you're spot-on about making a thread to help other people out if you find something interesting, weird, or helpful.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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89 E30 S52
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Transaction Feedback.
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Originally posted by Eddie Haskell View Post89i model with non premium sound no fader and never jacked with bone stock HU. Wired via Luke's synopsis. The 9v battery and testing the speaker leads did the trick. Pulled kickpanel on left side and voila the twisted pairs for rears and left side were there. Had to strip back factory harness behind HU and found the twisted pair leads. Snip,snip,snip and snip. Confirmed with the 9v before hookup. Job done in 1hour. 9v battery tool removes any question before going to the crimpers.
Luke
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This is driving me nuts. I have a JBL Arsenal that I'm trying to install in place of the 1996 crappy aftermarket CD player that someone put into my car.
It is a premium sound 1988 325is with 4 pairs of wires into the fader and an amp in the trunk, but the wires aren't the same colors as the ones mentioned in the OP. To complicate matters the previous owner cut 4 of the wires coming from the fader and connected them to the old head unit. The fader oddly still worked with the new head unit installed. The wires in the trunk are the right color for the speaker wires but there are some other randomly colored wires just hanging out. I might need to seek professional help with this...
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Originally posted by mikeb23ft View PostThis is driving me nuts. I have a JBL Arsenal that I'm trying to install in place of the 1996 crappy aftermarket CD player that someone put into my car.
It is a premium sound 1988 325is with 4 pairs of wires into the fader and an amp in the trunk, but the wires aren't the same colors as the ones mentioned in the OP. To complicate matters the previous owner cut 4 of the wires coming from the fader and connected them to the old head unit. The fader oddly still worked with the new head unit installed. The wires in the trunk are the right color for the speaker wires but there are some other randomly colored wires just hanging out. I might need to seek professional help with this...
Pull the left kick panel, look for a 4 pin plug with yellow and blue wires on it. Those are your rear speaker wires. Cut them and run new wire the 3' or so to your deck. That should have the rears up and running in about 4 minutes.
Beware, the black stripes (from the car, not your deck) are positives!
Now, to do your fronts: use the 4 wires in the dash (they were connected to the fader originally) that are yellow/red, yellow/black and blue/red and blue/black. Those were the 4 positive wires that ran to the amp.
You will need to re-purpose those wires by connecting them to the front speaker wires that are connected to your amp, the 2 grey pairs. Look up the colors on the chart at the top of this post. Cut them near the connector and connect them to the 4 you will be re-purposing, and then the fronts are done.
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Originally posted by mikeb23ft View PostRemoved aftermarket alarm system, and the panel under the wheel and the speaker cover. Not seeing said 4 port plug, the wiring bundle from the fader just goes on its merry way over the rocker panel by the seat and presumably back to the trunk. Help?!?
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Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostMike, if you pulled that left speaker cover (AKA "Kick Panel") you should see that 4 pin connector just above the top of that panel
Edit---going to try again tomorrow, don't wanna run new wire and speakers if I don't have to.Last edited by mikeb23ft; 02-23-2012, 12:03 AM.
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