So now I'm just talking to myself... But here's where I am and hopefully someone will answer my plea for help.
Attempt 1)
a) 3 brown ground wires (2 from e30, 1 from e36 switch)
b) 2 wires soldered into e36 switch connected to black ground on module
c) power wires connected (e30 green/white + module red fused wire + red/gray e36 switch)
d) remaining 2 wires connected to soldered module wires (2 pairs, not all 4 together)
Result:. Just a clicking sound on module. No window movement.
Attempt 2)
Same as above, but connected the module's green (motor up) to e30 black/gray and module's blue (motor down) to e30 purple/gray. This wasn't in the instruction, but zooming in on the pictures I saw this.
Result: windows up/down only on switch's 2nd click. No 1 touch.
Attempt 3)
same as above but with the 3 brown grounds connected to module ground + 2 wires soldered on switch. I did this because it wasn't clear to me in the instructions where it says connect brown grounds to ground on module, then it later says connect connect soldered wires to module ground.... So that implies that all 6 go together(?)
result: windows go up/down with either 1st or 2nd click on switch. No 1-touch.
I also tried other combinations of the modules "-switch down" and so on. No change from attempt 3.
Please help!?
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but perhaps my almost old brain can't learn new tricks.
I'm trying to emulate the same setup you have (no remote or anything fancy), but I'm confused on which wires connect where.
I have 3 green e36 switches and they have 2 different sets of wire colors, none of which match what you posted AFAIK.
Also, I seem to have 4 wires while your picture shows 3?
If anyone can give me some clarity as to which wires connect to what, that would be greatly appreciated!1 Photo
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Originally posted by Garrick2007 View PostCan this be done with e38/e39 switches....but not for one touch
Long answer is yes, but not without modifying the switches, and enough wires that would look like a bowl of spaghetti connected to 4 relays (4 for each window, 8 relays for a 2 door, 16 for a 4-door! Yikes!) - the number of connections needed would be maddening. It would take the better part of the day just to mock up - assuming you knew what you were doing.
The next question people ask is "can I steal a module out of a e36/e38/e39 and use that? No. After the e36 BMW added some electronics into the motors that that make in not work with the e30 wiring and motors.Last edited by george graves; 08-17-2017, 03:18 AM.
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Can this be done with e38/e39 switches? I rather the look of these switches and someone hacked them for use in e30's before but not for one touch, they fit nicely with a little bit of filing. If anyone knows how please let me know. If not I kind of think I may be able to rap my head around this guide and add the module onto it. Resource: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...One-Switch-Mod
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Originally posted by george graves View PostA bit better way to do things...
New custom circuit board - my own design, fully rebuilt switch. New LED, resistor.
Ah yes, that looks nice:
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not a bad idea, but highly doubt i would do it. the thought of opening and closing it lol
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I didn't say it couldn't be done, I said I wouldn't do it because I 100% believe you wouldn't like it. :) Maybe that's what you meant.
If you really want a "clean look" and only 2 switches, maybe consider hiding the rear switches in the ash tray? Hope that helps.
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can this do 2 windows with one switch? i asked george if his kit can and he said no. just looking for a cleaner look on my vert and delete two switches, plus not to mention 150x4 is kind of a rip off imo.
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Please make sure you post your questions here, I get a lot of PM's with the same questions, other members will be able to see question/answer in the thread.
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@Yanal Thanks for your writeup. I'm currently partway through implementing it. Soldering is done but have a question about the wiring.
Your write-up doesn't mention what to do with the switch up & down wires coming out of the module. Do they connect up to the switch itself somehow or just stay unconnected (you mention connecting the switch to the wires soldered directly to the module's board).
Any additional detail you could provide on the wiring would be a huge help!
Thanks in advance.
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