e30 cab audio build

[German Audio Specialties]

So yeah, those rear speakers don't fit. It's not that they're too deep - they just don't taper enough.

Which ones? Sorry, have lost the ability to actually read a thread...

If they are Premiums, they do fit, they are just a "wiggle into place" deal.

[Turf1600]

So yeah, those rear speakers don't fit. It's not that they're too deep - they just don't taper enough.

[clayparkley]

holy crap, now I have condemned you to doing more stuff.

See, the deal is this: once you have learned a skill, life will conspire to make you use that skill. Worse than that is now you have the tools to do more crap too...you are screwed.

Sorry

Luke

I've always wanted more power tools in my box, just didn't have a really good excuse to buy one. Thanks to you, yes, now I have more tools to do more crap :D

[German Audio Specialties]

Yes sir, whatever you say Luke. I think I'm pretty close to getting this done. I already spent like $200 just on tools, lol. Reciprocating saw, blades, hole saws, hole saw arbor....

holy crap, now I have condemned you to doing more stuff.

See, the deal is this: once you have learned a skill, life will conspire to make you use that skill. Worse than that is now you have the tools to do more crap too...you are screwed.

Sorry

Luke

[clayparkley]

I would do it on the inside. Remember, this is not a typical dynamat install, as the goal is actually building part of the box.

Guys, this install pitches everything you knew about car audio out the window.

It really is that different.

Luke

Yes sir, whatever you say Luke. I think I'm pretty close to getting this done. I already spent like $200 just on tools, lol. Reciprocating saw, blades, hole saws, hole saw arbor....

[German Audio Specialties]

So does the dynamet has to go inside the chamber? Can't you just put it on outside of the chamber? Does it make any difference? I'm asking because I just don't have any experience with sound deadener.

I would do it on the inside. Remember, this is not a typical dynamat install, as the goal is actually building part of the box.

Guys, this install pitches everything you knew about car audio out the window.

It really is that different.

Luke

[clayparkley]

So does the dynamet has to go inside the chamber? Can't you just put it on outside of the chamber? Does it make any difference? I'm asking because I just don't have any experience with sound deadener.

[German Audio Specialties]

Sweet! Progress is awesome.

That "chamber of horrors" is no joke, my hands are still healing, and Justin did most of it!

Having done 2 of these installs now, I think I can get through one in a full day. I just wisdh there were an easier way. I will tell you this: at the Abe B-Q last weekend, the car was a major hit. everyone who heard it was amazed. I just hope you guys like yours as much pain as you have gone through to get this far!

Luke

[Turf1600]

After weighing my options I went with stinger roadkill instead of dynamat or peel and stick.

BTW - I made a mistake. My subs are 4 ohm SVC.

[dunebuggyjay]

Finally starting this week.

So, my vert has an engine bay mounted battery. Do I just run a big ol' power cable from the battery to the trunk via the stock battery to distribution block wire location?

I too am starting my cab system.

I ran the pos 4 gauge power wire from the battery, to the trunk. Drilled as hole behind the battery, put a nice grommet in there, and ran the wire down the wire channel on the left side sill. (mine didnt have a ton of wires in there, so the 4 gauge fit fine. Yes I undid all the clips.

I am also running the same amp, Cadence front speakers, and luke cab box with kicker comp subs. Though mine are not DVC. For rear speakers I went cadence co-ax. slim mount...they are actually the exact same speaker as the front stage, with a tweeter mounted in the middle. No ext crossovers on the rears. I hardly ever even use the rears anyway, but figured I might as well throw something better than the paper 24 year old woofer in there.)

Have you started cutting metal yet? Def buy the recommend hole saw. Made things much easier with those triangles.

I am in the process of sealing up the chamber of horror. I have ripped my hands to shreds trying to get the dynamat in there. I also used silicon caulk to help seal of some of the holes/gaps on the side of the chamber.

Hope this helps. You will also want to elongate the slots in the your front speakers, so It will line up with the factory speaker mounting holes. Rears are even worse.

-Jay

[Turf1600]

I'll be following your build closely. I ordered a cabrio luke box last week.
What subwoofers did you buy? The picture didn't seem to work for me.

MM

Kicker comp 8 dvc



I want to say I got the pair for well under $100 shipped.

[MoreMayhem]

I'll be following your build closely. I ordered a cabrio luke box last week.
What subwoofers did you buy? The picture didn't seem to work for me.

MM

[Turf1600]

Finally starting this week.

So, my vert has an engine bay mounted battery. Do I just run a big ol' power cable from the battery to the trunk via the stock battery to distribution block wire location?

[Jean]

Some of the stuff you said above is correct but not all....for example.

The amount and/or size of crossover components does not directly indicate that the higher count/size is better. Also, Coax speakers infact DO have best tweeter location , but the BIG IF is if you can mount them but in the default car location you usually CAN'T.

If you look into very high end home audio, you'll notice lower count and coax or VERY close tweeter to mid location is what many designers strive for :)

[Turf1600]

why don't you want coaxial? i admit i am a bit of a retard when it comes to stereo equip.

You know, I'm also not a stereo expert. I listen to luke for mostly everything - he pretty much told me what to buy for my last audio build and it was awesome - I trust his judgment. From what I can gather coaxials generally can't handle as much wattage, have cheaper components (magnets, frames, tweeter domes, woofer materials) and have internal crossovers. Conventional logic would suggest that if a 4x2x2 crossover is required for components then the tiny amount of circuitry found in coaxials won't perform as well. Also, tweeter position is crucial to quality sound. If it wasn't then every tweeter would be in the center of the speaker. Overall, components pretty much allow you to route frequencies to speakers that are well suited to play them without losing sound quality and without damaging the speaker. Separating them also allows better tuning capacity as well as strategic placement - with the result hopefully being improved clarity and a fuller sound.

Someone correct me if I'm off base here - I'm not an audio pro.