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rack
I like your business model, uncomplicated and the components come to you. I had a local shop build something very similar for my Saab 9000t a few years ago. Love that form fit look and clean amp rack. Good stuff Luke.
Agreed, the lower end needs a dedicated source especially at higher volumes. We'll see how the money looks in the next few weeks. An 8" will be all I'd need.
I'll be in touch. Thanks again Luke!Leave a comment:
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Well, no. We don't sell gear, we only point it out! We are just not equipped to sell and have no desire to get into that mess. Besides, we are proud to say we only sell what we build!
Yes, you can easily grab a volume control/line driver and a 4 channel for under $200.
Get yourself one of these: http://www.jlaudio.com/cl-rlc-car-au...xpansion-98117
and your choice of 4 or 5 channel amps...BUT...if you want excellent sound, get one of our subwoofers, even the 8" LTW subwoofer will allow your front and rear speakers to play much cleaner and clearer, so the overall sound quality is terrific.
If you do it right, should run about $400, total, for really impressive sound.
Currently there are about 10 different 5 channel amps under $200 that will do just fine, but you gotta have a subwoofer. Four 5" speakers will not produce nice clarity at any volume level if the car is moving...but the solution is fairly painless.
If you are thinking "I ain't no kid, I don't need to be boomin' down the street", well, please think again. These are built for quality, but do produce quantity if you ask them to. There are no rattles because the sound is forced into the cabin, meaning you don't need a ton of power and most importantly, it sounds better. One 8" woofer in our box is plenty for most listeners.
Plus, all the sound stays in the cabin, so no one need know you have a real stereo unless you want them to.
Keep in mind too that every car that has decent sound stock has a subwoofer, it is how music is properly reproduced.
Have a sub for the bottom end and let the front and rear speakers do their job more efficiently, that is how it works.
LukeLeave a comment:
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Got the door tweeters and such. They sure sounded great. But it looks like the amp is certifiably dead. I tried each of the outputs and it's not the speakers. I'm considering running my iphone directly into a 4-channel. Pandora One is my go to. I think I spoke with you before on here about a simple audio setup a few months ago. Any chance you could put together an iphone line driver to amp and small 4-channel amp package for under $200?Leave a comment:
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I think I have a functioning cassette radio il check if ur interested...Leave a comment:
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There are plenty of new radios that do not have a light show, this is not 1999 anymore, thank god. Very few dancing dolphins these days. Look at the JVC, Sony, Kenwood and Pioneer, all offer color matching on some of their models. A personal fave is the Pioneer DEH64BT as it is subtle, matches color, has USB and AUX, sounds great and is very easy to use.
Once you have put 75 CDs or so on a thumb drive, you will never use a CD again. So easy, so quick, just wonderful. If you encode in .WMA 192K, the sound quality is as close as you are gonna get to CD with that level of convenience.
Is your car equipped with Premium Sound? The easy way to tell (but not for sure) is if you have tweeters on the doors. If it has the rear speaker pods and the door tweeters, likely it is Premium. At that point, you can safely say your stock amp is dead.
Otherwise, pop the deck out of the dash and connect a separate speaker to it, see if the noise continues.Leave a comment:
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OEM Radio heart beat
My '91 radio appears to have followed the yellow brick road and now has a heart. Whether I use the cassette or the radio, it sends a consistent 60bpm signal through the speakers. It does not come and go or fluctuate with engine speed, and it still occurs with the engine off.
I know I know I should just buy a new one, but I like the stock look and don't want the light show of a new radio.
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