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E30 "era correct" stereo recommendations needed.

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    Much more expensive, but also kind of perfect. Blaupunkt brought back the Bremen headunit from 1986 that looks nearly identical but has been modernized.

    Click image for larger version

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    I’ll probably be using this in my current project

    Here’s the link for more photos and information.


      Id rock, But i love playing MP3 Cds...

      If only the Cd43 could do mp3 cds...

      I think I'm going to try flush mount my Conti radio.. Its killing me, if that works ill send out for Red LEDS.

      I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.


        Go with the Conit and change the LEDs I cant believe they would be that much of a stickler.
        Euro Delivery Thread///E30 Project Klaus///COTM August 2021


          Anyone got some help from earthwormjim for inverting?
          Try to get hold of him to get some help ,but no luck,Thank u


            Didn't see your PM till now, what's your question about inverting? I'd prefer to talk here so others can see the information.


              Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
              Id rock, But i love playing MP3 Cds...

              If only the Cd43 could do mp3 cds...

              I think I'm going to try flush mount my Conti radio.. Its killing me, if that works ill send out for Red LEDS.
              You would have to dremel away material on the OEM panel and come up with a custom cage or modify the existing cage mounting. The included cage with the radio cage clips onto the front of the OEM dash panel, so you'd need a cage that is hard mounted or something to the inside of the dash so it sits further inside, rather than clipping onto the front OEM panel.

              You're not going to get it completely flush. It would look weird too, because the bezel around the radio has a chamfer to it, so if you did make it round, that champfer would have part of the bezel sitting inward.


                For reference, if you want to change the backlight LEDs, you want orange ones with 605nm as the primary spectral output. Those match the rest of the E30 interior lighting perfectly. I have been using those on head units for years to great effect.

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                  Some input regarding the Conti radio.

                  - You can find them at the CAT dealer. I was able to pick mine up locally for 150 after tax. ( Only difference is the logo and the bluetooth saying CAT BT on my phone. )

                  followed EarthWorm's LED advice and have flipped from the yellow to the orange.
                  - If you are not advance at soldering do not attempt. I was able to get a buddy local to do it for me for a decent price. figured it was worth it. Here you can see how close the SMD's are to the buttons.
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                  Its impossible to take a picture that shows it properly, but this is about what the difference is. Personally I think its still a bit on the lighter orange side. but maybe the flipped screen will send it all the way. I used the linked LED's

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                  Polarizer Flip
                  - Working on finding a source for the Polarizer film. Seems impossible to find a supplier right now for the high temp stuff for a good price. I ordered an iPhone LCD polarizer film to see if it works until then.

                  - the process is easy and you can practice on old calculators! Carefully lift the film with a razor blade. clean off remaining adhesive. Place new film down 90˚ to the previous. You can ensure the film is in the correct direction by holding it up to the radio and turning it until the screen turns black.

                  Logo Removal
                  - I was able to remove the logos using acetone based goof off. I took the entire thing apart and took the buttons off to minimize exposure to the other surfaces. (NOTE) the black is painted so use extreme caution doing this, you can burn through the black as I did in a spot. Luckily I was able to sand it down with micro mesh pads and the black plastic matches pretty well.

                  Not pictured but the knob removes and screws apart allowing for the chrome to be sanded for a bushed look or painted. I ended up painting it matte black.
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                  Sitting Flush
                  - The radio sticks out about 11mm

                  - Regarding the flush mount. I am working on finding a solution. the biggest issue is that the radios hidden bezel is wider and taller than the hole so it will need to be ground down to fit in. Or you could mount the entire thing from behind but you're totally screwed if you need to service. aka remove the entire lower dash and center console screwed.

                  Current plan is to make a two part mount using a 3d printed attachment that screws behind the opening to hold the cage and a new bezel that slips on the front. (Blockers: the cage sits on the lip of the opening so it will have to be forced through or mounted from behind. Mounting from behind works here because the radio could still be removed

                  Edit. Plans changed. Read further down.
                  Last edited by theanchored; 09-15-2020, 08:00 PM.


                    Yeah, I had to cut out the inner "ring" in the HVAC panel's radio opening in order to get my RMT-200 to fit. It's what a lot of newer radios seem to require. A 3D printed mount plate is a good idea. If I'd had a printer back when I did my stereo I would have gone that route, but instead I got clever with epoxy and sheet metal to make some little tabs for the radio to clamp onto.

                    Regarding removing the ring, I opted to work at it in multiple passes with an X-Acto knife rather than a Dremel. That way I could avoid any unwated "oops" scuffs, and get a clean break of the lip.

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                      I had considered cutting the ring on the cars DIN hole. It would be easier to cut, especially with a plunging cut with a oscillating multi tool.

                      I put that lower down on the possibility list due to that being a permanent change to the car. Also makes it a bit harder to mount a bezel. I am working with my e24 and center consoles are way harder to come by. I have not seen a parts car in ATL at all this year. .

                      My plan is to trim the excess hidden bezel on the radio there is plenty before getting to the mounting parts. . but I need to measure again. my last measurements showed 3mm on both sides which seems like that might be too much to remove. If it turns out that this plan would work I think I will use a belt sander to carefully remove material to the line. fortunately the cutting/sanding will be hidden behind the bezel and would even be hidden behind the radios OEM bezel if you needed it too.


                        Cool, take photos if you go that route. I'd be interested to see how it works out.

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                          New plan. Got bored duing a meeting and designed a new mount. This method requires the center console to be removed, but on the e24 it's pretty easy. Lower dash on both sides, glove box and then its just 5 screws. Not sure how hard it is for the e30.

                          Printing tests right now. will update soon.

                          Click image for larger version

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                          Last edited by theanchored; 09-17-2020, 08:11 PM.


                            Keep us updated on how well the volume knob paint holds up. I used VHD vinyl/plastic paint and after about 2 years, it's starting to wear away.

                            For the display backlight, I suggest you adjust the bias resistors for the LEDs. You're seeing more orange, because the LEDs don't maintain the same color across different currents.

                            Lower the current, and the LEDs get a little more red. The Kingbright LEDs I bought have about 50% more lumens output for the same current as the stock amber ones, so I usually just increase the bias resistors by 50% to compensate. R936 and R935 are the resistors I'm talking about. They're 1206 sized, 300-350 ohms would do.

                            Inverting darkens the display too, so it ends up looking slightly more red.

                            One of these days I plan to make a new mounting bracket adapter, so you can retain the continental cage, and just mount it deeper inside the dash. Would still need a dremel or knife to modify the OEM dash opening.
                            Last edited by earthwormjim; 09-18-2020, 03:12 PM.


                              Not going to lie. My electronic skills are purely in the ballsy DIY category so I definitely do not know how to adjust the bias resistors haha.

                              Alright. Has a little scare with the heat from soldering having fused the diffuser and acrylic light tube. I was able to separate them and sand down the acrylic to get it smooth and frosted again. the diffuser survived which was good. Definitely remove them before soldering and mask everything with aluminum foil.

                              Flipped the screen. It was super easy, just took it slow. peeled off the film. Wiped down the screen with IPA 90%. Traced the old film onto the new one with a razor and placed the new one on. if you can replace a screen protector you can change the polarizer film. I ended up buying a pack of polarizers for the iPad Air 2. Definitely not as thick as the OEM one but if a phone or iPad can last in a car in the heat this should be ok.

                              If anyone needs some I have WAY more than I need so I can cut and mail them for super cheap.

                              Still working on the mount. I think I have it perfected I just need to tweak a couple things and sand and paint.

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                              Last edited by theanchored; 09-18-2020, 05:54 PM.


                                Here's a radio I'm working on. Pictures are a little blurry, phone was refusing to focus correctly. The bias resistors are relatively easy to adjust, they are big SMT parts, you flow extra solder onto each end, and heat each end up simultaneously if your tip allows it. If not, then you heat up one end, heat up the other, and go back and forth until the part is floating, then flick it off with your iron.

                                It's the same process for the LEDs, but they are much smaller and harder to reach. I can't really photograph adding new LEDs, too small to handle and photograph, but I can show removing one. It's the same process as the resistor though, just scaled down.

                                Bias Resistors for display backlight:
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                                Heating up the pads:
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                                Lifting the part off with my iron, just using surface tension to lift it, it's stuck to my iron, a little hard to see:
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                                Cleaning the pads with solder braid:
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