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    Need Help with Central Locking Troublshooting

    First clarification all my lock tumblers function with my key, and the driver's side door will not physically lock unless the lock motor is removed, then it with lock/unlock/double lock.

    next item, my central lock module is new.

    ok so I need help figuring out why nothing is attempting to fire the power locks at either door or the trunk. I followed the first step of the ETM to check voltage at the CLU pin 3 to ground and pin 3 to 4 and both show car voltage/12v. I tried the next step of the the ETM with jumper wire and the CLU makes noise but no locks even attempt to actuate then the next step with the CLU unplugged and jumper wires and nothing happens.

    what should be my next step? will the driver's door motor being jammed cause the system not to try and fire?


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    #2
    First it sounds like your drivers door actuator is seized. That will blow the overload link inside the CLU if you keep trying to use the CLU with it seized, so disconnect it before continuing. Yes, this will stop it from working.

    Next, I have found that when the CLU will make noise when attempting to use it, it’s usually down to loss of power somewhere, and for me it’s always been at the drivers door loom pins. Pull the plug and clean the pins gently.
    Originally posted by codyep3
    I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
    2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
    1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
    1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
    2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
    2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
    2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
    2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
    2010 F650gs twin
    2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
      First it sounds like your drivers door actuator is seized. That will blow the overload link inside the CLU if you keep trying to use the CLU with it seized, so disconnect it before continuing. Yes, this will stop it from working.

      Next, I have found that when the CLU will make noise when attempting to use it, itís usually down to loss of power somewhere, and for me itís always been at the drivers door loom pins. Pull the plug and clean the pins gently.


      what about if the central lock unit never attempted to function while it was all assembled? the only time it attempted to function was during testing with jumper wires at the CLU itself


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #4
        If you try to activate the CLU with the seized actuator in the loop hooked up, it can overload the CLU due to the enormous resistance.

        There is a overload link in the CLU. It’s a soft soldered link that melts and pops if there is too much resistance on the motors. If it’s still making noise but not working, then it hasn’t popped yet. Disconnect the seized actuator and try using the key in the trunk/ passenger door etc.
        Also, the gas lid has an actuator also, so make sure that one is not seized also.
        Originally posted by codyep3
        I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
        2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
        1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
        1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
        2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
        2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
        2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
        2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
        2010 F650gs twin
        2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
          If you try to activate the CLU with the seized actuator in the loop hooked up, it can overload the CLU due to the enormous resistance.

          There is a overload link in the CLU. Itís a soft soldered link that melts and pops if there is too much resistance on the motors. If itís still making noise but not working, then it hasnít popped yet. Disconnect the seized actuator and try using the key in the trunk/ passenger door etc.
          Also, the gas lid has an actuator also, so make sure that one is not seized also.


          wouldn't the actuators still make noise if they were getting power? I feel like the module is fine but none of the signals are making it to the actuators. with the seized actuator unplugged and disconnected from the lock mechanisms there is no change other than I can physically turn the key to lock the door now.

          I'm wondering if there's a way to disconnect the CLU and manually jump the connection to test the system that way since I know the CLU to be good


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by todd black 88 View Post
            first it sounds like your drivers door actuator is seized. That will blow the overload link inside the clu if you keep trying to use the clu with it seized, so disconnect it before continuing. Yes, this will stop it from working.

            next, i have found that when the clu will make noise when attempting to use it, itís usually down to loss of power somewhere, and for me itís always been at the drivers door loom pins. Pull the plug and clean the pins gently.


            Originally posted by codyep3
            I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
            2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
            1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
            1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
            2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
            2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
            2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
            2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
            2010 F650gs twin
            2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
              [/b]


              sorry I guess by "using it" I meant a jumping it on the pins at the unit by the ETM porcedure I assume that was simulating a door switch input, I just found it odd that none of the actuators in the cars responded. if cleaning the pins doesnt work would that point to a faulty CL relay?


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Todd Black 88 View Post
                If you try to activate the CLU with the seized actuator in the loop hooked up, it can overload the CLU due to the enormous resistance.

                There is a overload link in the CLU. Itís a soft soldered link that melts and pops if there is too much resistance on the motors. If itís still making noise but not working, then it hasnít popped yet. Disconnect the seized actuator and try using the key in the trunk/ passenger door etc.
                Also, the gas lid has an actuator also, so make sure that one is not seized also.


                cleaned the pins and tested continuity to the actuator in the driver's side door and everything is good. you mentioned if I unplugged an actuator the central locks wouldn't function. I was investigating the trunk and realized there's no actuator back there at all, just the plug for it.

                I assume this is needed to make a full circuit for the lock system to function at all?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes all the actuators have to be plugged in for the locking to work. Also nothing can be seized (actuators, Lockís) .While youíre doing all this work you should eliminate the loops in the doors as well.


                  What Iíve done in the past is used a good working actuator and swapped it for all the ones in my car to figure out which one was bad (assuming only 1 is bad if any).


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  /// MTech Belts ///


                  S52 BUILD


                  Instagram: @martino_motorsport

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 968Reckless View Post
                    Yes all the actuators have to be plugged in for the locking to work. Also nothing can be seized (actuators, Lockís) .While youíre doing all this work you should eliminate the loops in the doors as well.


                    What Iíve done in the past is used a good working actuator and swapped it for all the ones in my car to figure out which one was bad (assuming only 1 is bad if any).


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


                    I actually figured this out the other weekend, added back in the trunk actuator, swapped the two front actuators and boom, everything works now. I also eliminated the loop and cleaned the door pins (which actually fixed my power mirror issues).

                    added keyless entry while I was at it! now I just have to get a set of doorcard pop clips since half of them broke from being probably original lol


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