Need Help with Central Locking Troublshooting

[Sladek]

Yes all the actuators have to be plugged in for the locking to work. Also nothing can be seized (actuators, Lock’s) .While you’re doing all this work you should eliminate the loops in the doors as well.


What I’ve done in the past is used a good working actuator and swapped it for all the ones in my car to figure out which one was bad (assuming only 1 is bad if any).


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I actually figured this out the other weekend, added back in the trunk actuator, swapped the two front actuators and boom, everything works now. I also eliminated the loop and cleaned the door pins (which actually fixed my power mirror issues).

added keyless entry while I was at it! now I just have to get a set of doorcard pop clips since half of them broke from being probably original lol


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[968Reckless]

Yes all the actuators have to be plugged in for the locking to work. Also nothing can be seized (actuators, Lock’s) .While you’re doing all this work you should eliminate the loops in the doors as well.


What I’ve done in the past is used a good working actuator and swapped it for all the ones in my car to figure out which one was bad (assuming only 1 is bad if any).


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[Sladek]

If you try to activate the CLU with the seized actuator in the loop hooked up, it can overload the CLU due to the enormous resistance.

There is a overload link in the CLU. It’s a soft soldered link that melts and pops if there is too much resistance on the motors. If it’s still making noise but not working, then it hasn’t popped yet. Disconnect the seized actuator and try using the key in the trunk/ passenger door etc.
Also, the gas lid has an actuator also, so make sure that one is not seized also.

cleaned the pins and tested continuity to the actuator in the driver's side door and everything is good. you mentioned if I unplugged an actuator the central locks wouldn't function. I was investigating the trunk and realized there's no actuator back there at all, just the plug for it.

I assume this is needed to make a full circuit for the lock system to function at all?


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[Sladek]

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sorry I guess by "using it" I meant a jumping it on the pins at the unit by the ETM porcedure I assume that was simulating a door switch input, I just found it odd that none of the actuators in the cars responded. if cleaning the pins doesnt work would that point to a faulty CL relay?


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[Todd Black 88]

first it sounds like your drivers door actuator is seized. That will blow the overload link inside the clu if you keep trying to use the clu with it seized, so disconnect it before continuing. Yes, this will stop it from working.

next, i have found that when the clu will make noise when attempting to use it, it’s usually down to loss of power somewhere, and for me it’s always been at the drivers door loom pins. Pull the plug and clean the pins gently.

[Sladek]

If you try to activate the CLU with the seized actuator in the loop hooked up, it can overload the CLU due to the enormous resistance.

There is a overload link in the CLU. It’s a soft soldered link that melts and pops if there is too much resistance on the motors. If it’s still making noise but not working, then it hasn’t popped yet. Disconnect the seized actuator and try using the key in the trunk/ passenger door etc.
Also, the gas lid has an actuator also, so make sure that one is not seized also.

wouldn't the actuators still make noise if they were getting power? I feel like the module is fine but none of the signals are making it to the actuators. with the seized actuator unplugged and disconnected from the lock mechanisms there is no change other than I can physically turn the key to lock the door now.

I'm wondering if there's a way to disconnect the CLU and manually jump the connection to test the system that way since I know the CLU to be good


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[Todd Black 88]

If you try to activate the CLU with the seized actuator in the loop hooked up, it can overload the CLU due to the enormous resistance.

There is a overload link in the CLU. It’s a soft soldered link that melts and pops if there is too much resistance on the motors. If it’s still making noise but not working, then it hasn’t popped yet. Disconnect the seized actuator and try using the key in the trunk/ passenger door etc.
Also, the gas lid has an actuator also, so make sure that one is not seized also.

[Sladek]

First it sounds like your drivers door actuator is seized. That will blow the overload link inside the CLU if you keep trying to use the CLU with it seized, so disconnect it before continuing. Yes, this will stop it from working.

Next, I have found that when the CLU will make noise when attempting to use it, it’s usually down to loss of power somewhere, and for me it’s always been at the drivers door loom pins. Pull the plug and clean the pins gently.

what about if the central lock unit never attempted to function while it was all assembled? the only time it attempted to function was during testing with jumper wires at the CLU itself


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[Todd Black 88]

First it sounds like your drivers door actuator is seized. That will blow the overload link inside the CLU if you keep trying to use the CLU with it seized, so disconnect it before continuing. Yes, this will stop it from working.

Next, I have found that when the CLU will make noise when attempting to use it, it’s usually down to loss of power somewhere, and for me it’s always been at the drivers door loom pins. Pull the plug and clean the pins gently.

[Sladek]

First clarification all my lock tumblers function with my key, and the driver's side door will not physically lock unless the lock motor is removed, then it with lock/unlock/double lock.

next item, my central lock module is new.

ok so I need help figuring out why nothing is attempting to fire the power locks at either door or the trunk. I followed the first step of the ETM to check voltage at the CLU pin 3 to ground and pin 3 to 4 and both show car voltage/12v. I tried the next step of the the ETM with jumper wire and the CLU makes noise but no locks even attempt to actuate then the next step with the CLU unplugged and jumper wires and nothing happens.

what should be my next step? will the driver's door motor being jammed cause the system not to try and fire?


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