i have some wiring Q's

[bmws50b30]

more q's. i'm glad you guys are patient. i connect my ignition lead(red wire) to the rd/grn(constant 12V). i don't see any wire from the deck harness to be connected to the acc wire (purple/grey). what do i connect to this wire and am i right connecting the ignition lead to the constant 12V? the diagram show the constant 12V as red/white but i don't have that wire. these are just test fits that's why the wire are just twisted. i'll crimp themtogether when everything is finally working.


i finally test mounted the amps and i started measuring and cutting the wires i need. my firewall is missing the card board, i hope it's fine to mount the amps on bare metal.


some pics of my setup. i'll connect everything and fire it up. if all is fine then i'll disconnect and mount the amps again and clean up the wires. i'm having a har time finding a nice grounding spot. i might just drill through the fire wall and put a bolt to it.




luke i'll need help with setting the amps gains and such before imount it back. it will be hard to access these settings once the amps are mounted. thanks

[AndrewBird]

i have a power ant and remote wire coming from the head unit harness. i connected the white (pwr ant/rmt on) wire fron the car to the pwr ant wire. ahould i connect the amp turn on wire to the head unit remote wire? should i combine the white wire and the amp turn on wire and connect it to the head unit remote wire?

You would be using "power antenna" to run the antenna, and "amp remote" to turn those 2 amps on.

Looking good man. I also suggest using hot glue on the tweeters.

As far as rear components, I suggest trying the stock premiums first. If you don't like the way they sound, upgrade then. According to Luke, the stock premiums are pretty good when powered with an amp.

[bmws50b30]

i have couple more q's.

i have a power ant and remote wire coming from the head unit harness. i connected the white (pwr ant/rmt on) wire fron the car to the pwr ant wire. ahould i connect the amp turn on wire to the head unit remote wire? should i combine the white wire and the amp turn on wire and connect it to the head unit remote wire?

where can i find the inginition lead fromthe stock wires? where do i connect this wire?thanks

[bmws50b30]

Personally I would use hot glue to set it where you want, then come back with silicone or gasket sealer for a more permanent bond. Hot glue is great because it sets up fast and isnt permanent. The only downside is that it will loosen up in the summer heat. Thats why I recommend coming behind it with the silicone or gasket sealer. It takes longer to set up, it isnt permanent, but it will hold up to the heat.

thanks! that's what i'll do. i was concerned about the permanent bonding of the jb weld too and how it could pose a problem when something happens to the tweeter. i'm mounting the crossovers now and figure how to mount the amps. i'm thinking of bolting the amps to the firewall as oppose to using self tapping screws

thanks again guys

[Mtriple]

Personally I would use hot glue to set it where you want, then come back with silicone or gasket sealer for a more permanent bond. Hot glue is great because it sets up fast and isnt permanent. The only downside is that it will loosen up in the summer heat. Thats why I recommend coming behind it with the silicone or gasket sealer. It takes longer to set up, it isnt permanent, but it will hold up to the heat.

[bmws50b30]

thanks bob.

i'm getting there. i'm working on mounting the new tweets to the stock pods. all the wiring is done. i'll be using the stock premium rear speakers for now. should i buy another set of infinity components to match the fronts? is it fine to mount the amps on bare metal? my rear firewall doesn't have the card board panel anymore. should i used nuts and bolts or self tapping screws to mount. i'm thinking of putting some kind of dampener between the amp and the mounting screws. it's too friggin hot to work on the car right now, 90 deg here in NYC.

here's what i've done so far with the tweeter pods. should i use crazy glue or JB weld?

[Mtriple]

Looks like you're making out just fine Georgie.

[AndrewBird]

most amps require 2 channels of input, then "sum" the two internally...most decks have 2 RCAs for sub, too.

Learn something new everyday. I assumed decks had a mono output for the sub.

[StereoInstaller1]

Dude, you are all sideways! Or, at least your drawing is.

My rule of thumb is not more than 2 items turned on without a relay.

You would be using "power antenna" to run the antenna, and "amp remote" to turn those 2 amps on. I say no relay is necessary.

Neither are 4 ga grounds on those amps, but that is only overkill, no worries.

Luke

Luke

[bmws50b30]

i really appreciate all the help you guys have given me. this is the first install i'm doing with components and multi-amp setup and i want to do it right the first time, at least get the wiring done right with room to upgrade the amps later. i drew this setup from what i understood what you guys are trying to say. let me know if this is correct. i also read from cruthfield that if you combine your amp turn on lead that you'll need a relay to avoid burning your receivers turn on lead. do i need a relay or i'm fine here. again thank for all the help you've given me.

[StereoInstaller1]

Momo? No, mono...but 2 RCAs because most amps require 2 channels of input, then "sum" the two internally...most decks have 2 RCAs for sub, too.

Luke

[AndrewBird]

3 sets of RCAs'= front, rear and sub.

Duh, didn't think of rear. Although, why do you need a set of RCA's for the sub. It is mono yes/no?

[StereoInstaller1]

3 sets of RCAs'= front, rear and sub.

Yes,, only you would use 4GA to the fuse holder, then put BOTH 8ga into the other end of the fuseholder...no distribution needed, unless you want the look.

Ground is fine, I just do not recommend using an existing bolt.

Obviously, you will not be using the 5th channel of the 5 channel. It is puny power, and meant for a 2 ohm load, so your 4 ohm sub will only get about 50 watts at most. Your 2 channel will make plenty of power on that sub.

Luke

[AndrewBird]

Generally, the shorter the ground leads the better, so like Chris said, just ground them right there at the amps to the trunk firewall, sanding/grinding away any paint.

Hey Luke, why 3 sets of RCA's?

[NC325iC]

you would run the 4 guage to distribution blocks from bat and ground, then you would run 8 guage from the dist blocks to the amps, ground it just about anywhere really just clear off some paint, i have mine grounded on the rear seat back hold down bolts right now