need help with subs...

[StereoInstaller1]

Luke, where is your shop located?

Loud & Clear Car Audio
2600 Main Street
Suite F
Spring-fucking-tucky, OR.

541-747-1171

[twistednut]

Luke, where is your shop located?

[1991 e30 bmw 318is]

ok so the box should be ported. that means i need to figure out the right way of doing this.

[StereoInstaller1]

Oh fuck, here we go...

OK, everyone has their groove...but let me see if I can explain this in very few words.

1. Ported plays louder with fewer watts: Ported with 10 watts will be about the same "loud" as sealed using 100 watts. Yes it really is that much of a difference.

2. Ported plays deeper and "punchier" with better clarity IF PROPERLY DESIGNED!

Right there is the catch. Most professional installers can't build a properly designed ported box. Very very few ported boxes are properly designed and most SOUND LIKE SHIT so there is this huge stupid misconception that sealed has better "response", whatever the fuck that is supposed to mean.

Sealed = easy, lazy, makes boom, WTF, lets go party, whatev.

Ported, sealed into the cabin, properly designed = Raging pain in the ass, difficult, possibility of having to do it 3 or 4 times to get it perfect, math, etc etc...but it fits the car, MUCH more trunk space, MUCH better sound from less shit, idiot kids go "is that 3 12s?" general feeling of being impressed with your work, blah blah blah.

Luke

[1991 e30 bmw 318is]

Were you planning on building a ported box?

no i don't think because i was told i would get better response if i its sealed. i listen to a little bit of every thing so i think sealed would be best right?

[StereoInstaller1]

Were you planning on building a ported box?

[1991 e30 bmw 318is]

so you guys are saying just don't wire up one sub so do i bridge it? or just do the same as wiring two but not put any thing in the other one. because they run at 200rms each so if i leave one unhook i loose half the power right? so too get it back i bridge it? then there is too much power going to the one sub right? so if it blows my warranty also wont cover it because its not the way they say to hook them up.

[DrMcDave]

why not drop the extra weight and do what luke is suggesting. It doesn't make sense to add an extra sub that is doing essentially nothing.

[1991 e30 bmw 318is]

I'm not saying you don't know your stuff I'm sure you do. its just that its a set i bought and i thought that thats what its made for. any way it works just fine as it is set up in this box in the store. http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/prodde...on=&langid=EN#
so i would say the cubic size is for each sub. what exactly will be the difference if the box is smaller or bigger? thinking about 14.5x28x15.5 but it might be too small. gives me 2.79cubic feet.

[StereoInstaller1]

Luke, so what do you use to seal the box to the ski hole opening? I have a decent sub but I just can't seem to get any sound from the trunk. I am using an image dynamix 12" driven by a planet audio 4 channel amp with 2 channels bridged driving the sub which should be delivering around 150watts. But compared to the same set up in my old hatchback it is seriously "dead" in my 325.

E30s are about the toughest cars to get decent bass in, and hatches the easiest.

One of the many reasons I do ported boxes, generally.

Look a few posts above this to see how I build E30 boxes...angled front that fits perfectly to the angle of the trunk. Then, I cover the section of the box that actually meets the trunk wall with 1/2" closed cell foam as a gasket. You can see the foam in the picture.

Good Luck!
Luke

[StereoInstaller1]

i thought you meant to like open seat where there is the thing that opens. my back seat is one big piece it wont open up. any way there staying in the back and I'm using the 2 subs because thats what that amp is made for too run the 2 subs are 200rms each. the box i am trying too find out how big to make it now. the front will be 14.5X28 so there will be about 1 inch between the subs now i just need too find out how deep to go too get the right cubic volume.

No, that amp is made to operate best on a 4 ohm mono load, or 2 ohms per channel.

That amp will perform best on one of those subs, they are 4 ohms each.

Repeat after me...wattage is meaningless.

If you want to ignore the advice of a guy who has been professionally building high performance Car Audio since 1980, go ahead. Bwaaahahahaa!



As far as your box, measure your space, multiply INSIDE measurements: (H)X(W)X(D) to give you your cubic inches, then divide by 1728 to get your cubic footage.


Luke

[twistednut]

http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/ee215/Stan141/91%20Car%20stereo/?action=view&current=91carstereo011.jpg
Or maybe something like this would work for you.

[Skoobeesnak]

Luke, so what do you use to seal the box to the ski hole opening? I have a decent sub but I just can't seem to get any sound from the trunk. I am using an image dynamix 12" driven by a planet audio 4 channel amp with 2 channels bridged driving the sub which should be delivering around 150watts. But compared to the same set up in my old hatchback it is seriously "dead" in my 325.

[Jean]

Since 12x12x12 = 1728 = 1 cu.ft and you need about 1.5 , that's 2592 / (14.5X28 ) = 6.8 ". You can go slightly bigger or smaller, it would be nice if we had more specs on the woofers though...

Now I don't know if they listed 1.5 cu.ft total for both, or for each sub.

[1991 e30 bmw 318is]

i thought you meant to like open seat where there is the thing that opens. my back seat is one big piece it wont open up. any way there staying in the back and I'm using the 2 subs because thats what that amp is made for too run the 2 subs are 200rms each. the box i am trying too find out how big to make it now. the front will be 14.5X28 so there will be about 1 inch between the subs now i just need too find out how deep to go too get the right cubic volume.