Tips on tuning a sound system?

[Turf1600]

cool. This sounds like fun. I have it now so that it sounds great and the amps don't get hot. Tonight I'll level out my HU EQ and kinda start over - that is after I run my new speaker wire on the driver's side.

How big of a difference in clarity does speaker wire make?

[StereoInstaller1]

He has the exact same speakers as my car, the Exile Xtech 6.5's running on a decent 4 channel amp, tri-amped. He won't have an issue being too bass heavy, nor will his mids and tweets be crappy sounding. Plenty of power and excellent clarity, plus individual adjustment of midrange and tweeter levels make up for damn near any issue.

The gain structure on these amps is very gentle, but not exactly linear. 3/4 of the way to full gain is about 50% of the amps output. He has 500WRMS on a single 12, in a highly efficient box that couples 100% into the cabin of the car, but with a seat that muffles the upper bass horribly. Midbass is of highest concern, thus the dial the bass/midrange first approach.

[dinanm3atl]

Deck EQs do suck.

I would still worry about interior speakers and then bass. Regardless of the vehicle but that is my personal preference. I hate bass heavy vehicles that the rest of the stuff sounds like shit!

My current setup in the 86 535iA

Panasonic CQ7413U

eD Nine.4
Polk Momo Carbon Series 4x6
Rainbow Audio Soundline 5.25" Comp Set

RF 400.2
BSW f110 Enclosure
BSW Alchemy built by Alumapro

Jams :)

[StereoInstaller1]

I will reserve my other qualms with a couple of comments but thats just wrong. Unless the headunit is lacking in xover adjustability then I don't understand why you would call it a band - aid solution. Most car audio enthusiasts use the deck because its easier to adjust since the controls are right at your fingertips.

It is not wrong. The bullshit sloppy EQ settings found in decks sucks, and they cause piss poor clarity. Just exactly how much circuitry do you think can be packed in a deck?

"Most car audio enthusiasts use the deck because its easier" tells me it is bullshit, too. Just how fucking hard it is to adjust it on the amp? Damn near everything in life that is "easier" is bullshit or band-aids.

Deck EQs suck, and the crossovers are rarely worth a shit. They sound like ass, and they are a band-aid. Use them for final tweaking AFTER you know what you are doing.

He will be far better off to do it the way I suggested, using the amps crossovers. He does not need EQ at this point. He needs training.

Also to be absolutely safe with setting gains then use a DMM and follow this method:

Yeah, I am sure Patrick has a DVM (we are measuring voltage, right?) and a bunch of test tones on disk, right? I am sure this self admitted "car audio newbie" will be comfortable in setting that up...

Actually, the CORRECT way to adjust gains is using a reference disk and an oscilloscope to analyze the waveforms looking for clipping...but Patrick is not equipped for that, either.


Since I have installed about 30 of these amps (I am the ONLY dealer in Oregon) I think I can make my recommendations pretty accurately. In some cars that are "bass challenged" like an E30, you should dial in the bass first, then midrange, then lose the bass before bringing in the tweeters, THEN add the bass back in.


Oh yeah, Patrick, if the bass sounds a bit "tubby", try lowering the low pass on the bass amp. A tiny bit should do it, like 80Hz or so.

Luke

[Dozyproductions]

Use ONLY the amp crossovers. Do NOT use the fucking EQ on your deck, that is a bullshit bandaid, for hacks ONLY...you have immense adjustablity with just gains and crossovers on your amps.

I will reserve my other qualms with a couple of comments but thats just wrong. Unless the headunit is lacking in xover adjustability then I don't understand why you would call it a band - aid solution. Most car audio enthusiasts use the deck because its easier to adjust since the controls are right at your fingertips.


Also to be absolutely safe with setting gains then use a DMM and follow this method:

turn your deck up 80%, with amp crossovers off, deck processing off, speakers disconnected from amp, gains set to 0. Set your voltmeter to measure AC. Take one channel of the amp, and put the voltmeter ends aganst the postive and negative sides of the channel. Slowly turn up gain until volt meter registers desired voltage while playing a -3 db or -6db test tone. 1000hz for highs, 60 hz for subs. Turn HU down, reconnect speakers, and add desired processing at deck.

Use equation to get desired voltage beforehand: Voltage=Sqrt(power*resistance).

Eg: 90 watt rms speakers, 110 watt per channel amp. Use the lower of the 2 for power, multiply by resistance. Eg: 90*4(4ohm speaker)=360. Take Sqrt of 360, = 18.97 volts.

[dinanm3atl]

I would personally fully tune the 4channel with the subwoofer completely off and then slowly work in the bass till I get it to the point that it sounds good and is equal with the rest of the audio. Simply putting it at 3/4 gain and then starting to tune just makes for a bass heavy system IMHO.

[Mtriple]

No, who uses an RTA for sound quality?

[dlmrun2002]

Hey Luke. I know in theory running an RTA with a dual mic pickup to EQ to a flat response is the way to go . But car interiors and all the standing waves make it a little unrealistic to " pink" out the car. Wouldn't this be a good start in either case and then just make tweeks with a competent EQ?.
dlm

[StereoInstaller1]

First, understand that tuning of a tri-amped system is NOT easy, nor is it something that the average noobie should attempt. The fact that you have gotten this far is pretty impressive. You told me you would be working with Jordo: I would not have thrown you to the wolves alone had I known you would be trying this on your own.

You are way over your head, be patient...it will be awesome.

Keep in mind that the smallest adjustment can be HUGE, and that adding bass can make the treble seem less, or vice-versa. Make small adjustments!!!


OK, start off with the deck:

EQ settings need to be "FLAT" or everything at "zero" (no added bass or treble from the deck) Make sure fader and balance are both at center, too.

Subwoofer level set to "0" (assuming your deck goes to negative numbers), "LOUDNESS" off (!!!)

So, now we know that the deck is not fucking with the sound. You can do that later, lets get the basic tuning dialed in first.

Use a good sounding CD, NOT the fucking iPod, and not "I really like this song" bullshit, but a known good sounding CD, and a REAL store bought CD, not even a burn.

Go raid your parents CDs, BB Kings "Dueces Wild" or Boz Scaggs "Come On Home" would be nice, Fleetwood Macs "Tango In the Night"...NOT rap or hard rock...listen to that shit later, get the fucker dialed FIRST!!!

Now, off to the amps. Turn the sub amp to "low pass", set it to about 100Hz or a bit lower. Make sure bass boost is at "0", set the level to about 3/4.

Turn the levels to minimum on both midrange and treble amps, basically, turn them off...but leave them playing.

Set the high pass on the midrange to about 100Hz, and turn the high pass all the way up on the tweeter amp.

Now, go fire up your stereo. Turn it up until the bass is just starting to sound distorted, like 95% of the way up...now turn it down a tiny bit. Should still be booming like mad, but clean as hell.

Now, slowly adjust your midrange. Turn it up until the mids just start to blend with the bass. You should still have no treble at all, but listen for distortion. If you cant get it loud enough without distortion, bring the high pass up slightly, to like 120Hz (that will increase the power handling).

OK, so now you have the bass and the mids playing loud as hell...turn the sub off. Not down, 100% off. Now you are left with the mids playing loud as hell, and the car sounds like shit...time to bring in some treble. Slowly bring the gain up on the tweeter amp until the tweets add a nice clean sparkle and shine...then maybe a bit more, but just the tiniest bit more.

Now bring back the bass.

You should now have clean, crisp, LOUD music, dynamic as hell.

So, expect the next step to take literally months...add the tiniest bit more bass, take out a tiny bit of midrange...but DON'T FUCK WITH THE DECK!!! Adjust ONLY level settings on the amp. Use ONLY the amp crossovers. Do NOT use the fucking EQ on your deck, that is a bullshit bandaid, for hacks ONLY...you have immense adjustablity with just gains and crossovers on your amps.

Get used to the sound as it is, let your ears learn a bit, then fuck with the other stuff.


Post some pics, fucker...you owe me!

Luke

[Turf1600]

Correct 4 channel.

http://www.titaniumpower.com/Details...27133314127001

And no, it does not turn off. I got some 14ga for the speakers and tweeters on the drivers side.

[dinanm3atl]

Let's worry about the subwoofer amp getting super hot.

Does it shut off from temp protect?

[Turf1600]

Don't know really.

What does it say in the owners manual?(It does help to read them) ;)

I told you I'm a stereo noob. It's all gibbirish to me.

[Turf1600]

This is te sub BTW

http://www.exilecaraudio.com/2007/products/subwoofers/?model=s12

[dinanm3atl]

Don't know really.

What does it say in the owners manual?(It does help to read them) ;)

[Turf1600]

What's the config all mean?