Do i need an equalizer???
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OK thanks...now one last question...
The ppi amp pushes 2x200rms bridged or 4x50rms.
Do you think it would sound better with the 200rms or with two seperate 50rms channels. I have to believe that they are pretty power hungry woofers (130rms). I am just worried that i am going to loose mid base by running less watts through the components, but i a some what newb to car audio so what do i know.Any further information would be greatly appreciated.Last edited by brn2ply7; 10-06-2008, 11:06 AM.Leave a comment:
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OK, so see how the JL crossovers have a"Bi-Wire" input? That means you can use all 4 channels to run your front seperates...as in true "tri-amp", with or without an additional electronic crossover.
You would run the front 2 channels to the tweeters and the rear 2 channels to the midranges.
If you decide to run an additional electronic crossover, you need to match the slope and frequency of those passive crossovers pretty closely.Leave a comment:
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I will go ahead and get pictures hopefully tonight of my crossoversLeave a comment:
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Luke speaks the truth. Unless you have an insanely exspensive and elaborate hu an eq will make a world of difference. Even with stock speakers the difference is night and day.Leave a comment:
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Post a pic of each of your crossovers for the component speakersLeave a comment:
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I am not running rear speakers in my car....Do you think that running 50rms to the woofers and 50rms to the tweeters will be enough for the speakers in an active setup. I don't want to lose any midbase by not having the amp bridged as apposed to putting out 200rms to each passive crossover in a passive set up.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, you could run an aftermarket crossover, and it will sound better and be more adjustable than your deck...but you would use the same setup.
You are currently running 4 channels to your front and rear speakers. 4 channels = 4 speakers, so if you wanted to use a 4 channel amp to run the front speakers, you would need at least 2 more channels to run the rear. The sound is dramatically better, but WAY more hassle and money and space.
You could also drop the rear speakers altogether, which is how I run, then the added crossover would really come into play.
The passive crossovers that came with your speakers are a necessity to use if you stay with the current 4 channel 4 speaker setup. Even with the added crossover, you should still use something for tweeter protection.
So, turn the crossovers on in your deck. You already have them and they will make a huge difference.
LukeLeave a comment:
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Tom, go into your owners manual.
Find the settings of "High Pass Filters" (as others have said)
If you have 18db/oct or higher, set your high pass to 100Hz.
if under 18db/oct, set to 120Hz.
If you want your car to play louder, safely, set the crossover point higher.
Set the "Low Pass" on the bass to about 80Hz.
See whatcha think.
LukeLeave a comment:
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I build my own passive ones usually, but I also love my old rodek (zed audio is great)Leave a comment:
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a/k/a "crutch" :), but just my opinion.. does the HU have sub-out RCAs? If so, dial back the low ends in the head unit (iow, don't run loudness, and lows at a +4..) then use the sub amp's settings to raise the lowe end back up where you want it..
I've noticed that in my e30 coupe, the single 10 on 140wRMS is sad... UNLESS, I pop the trunk open. The trunk area is so sealed off from the pass. compartment, that no compression is making it's way up front.. Popping a couple of 4" holes in the back deck tray (below the carpeted cover) made a world of difference, allowing the sub 120Hz notes to pass through..
I run (on my deh-7600MP) the loudness on low, the low-range on a 0 or +1, and it's just fine. Oh, I'm running the OE 4 speakers off head unit power (est. 40wX4 PkPk), no xovers, nada.. It's definitely not concert-quality, but it does a fine job, for what I'm using..Leave a comment:
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crossovers are what will keep the low frequencies from the comps. An eq for the most part is just a booster to fix dips in soundLeave a comment:

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