$30 scosche sub box arrived today...

[E30 Cabrio]

where would you put the spare tire? :)

In the trunk?

Or run without one and keep a can of "Spare tire in a can" in the trunk.

Or run-flats?

Just wondering how it would sound if someone utlitized the existing well in the trunk.

[robspeed325i]

Just a thought - would using the spare tire well work for a subwoofer?

It seems to be an ideal place for one. Maybe not quite deep enough, but if you laid some carpeting to line it and put a sub in there it would not use up trunk space and you would have a built in sub box, although you would have to have some kind of grille to protect the subwoofer if you planned on putting anything in the trunk.

Opinions?

where would you put the spare tire? :)

[E30 Cabrio]

Just a thought - would using the spare tire well work for a subwoofer?

It seems to be an ideal place for one. Maybe not quite deep enough, but if you laid some carpeting to line it and put a sub in there it would not use up trunk space and you would have a built in sub box, although you would have to have some kind of grille to protect the subwoofer if you planned on putting anything in the trunk.

Opinions?

[Stephen]

hehe i feel that emotion... if i already didnt have everything else i needed, i wouldnt be spending a dime on this stuff. that and my bass addiction!! ;-p

Yeah, exactly, any money i spend on subs cant be spent on wheels :(

[robspeed325i]

Hmm, If i could get a setup for cheap, it might climb the priority list a bit, haha

hehe i feel that emotion... if i already didnt have everything else i needed, i wouldnt be spending a dime on this stuff. that and my bass addiction!! ;-p

[Stephen]

just get a 4 ohm woofer and you dont have to worry about compatibility too much. also check the woofer specs to see if a 1.25cu.ft. box is big enough. Im guessin for 90% of 12ers it will be. I guess mostly you want to get a woof designed for sealed boxes. i think shipping is free at certain places if you spend enough $$. dont expect too much at a budget level like this, and be aware that bass is addictive! once you have a little, typically you end up wanting more! that being said, an el-cheapo setup can probably match a high-dollar one up to a certain level. if anything, get a bigger amp than you need, just dont turn it up all the way (or enough to blow the woof). more power is always better since you are just as if not more likely to kill a woofer with clipping distortion (too little power) than by smoking it or breaking it physically (too much power). a trick is to set the amp gain so that the woofer is making all the sound it can safely make without distorting or bottoming out at the level that is comfortable to listen to as far as the other speakers go. that way, you can never blow anything without blowing your hearing too (which you will naturally avoid i hope). one other thing that would be useful is an amp with speaker-level inputs so you can just tap into one of the rear speakers (which you will likely remove) for signal...

Hmm, If i could get a setup for cheap, it might climb the priority list a bit, haha

[robspeed325i]

i should amend that, if you get a 2-ohm dual voice coil sub, aka one with two, 2-ohm coils, you can wire it for 1 ohm, and thus using a 1-ohm stable amp, make the most power for the least $ per watt. trouble with that is 1-ohm stable amps are more $$. You can also compromise and get one with dual 4-ohm coils, and thus wire it for 2 ohms total, and just get a 2-ohm stable amp (or a 1-ohm stable one with a margin of safety--which never hurts in the "budget" class of amps)...

[robspeed325i]

well if i got a hifoncs 30$ sub and a 80$ amp, with a 30$ box... thats like 130 [+shipping i guess]

Although i wasnt paying attention to compatibility...

just get a 4 ohm woofer and you dont have to worry about compatibility too much. also check the woofer specs to see if a 1.25cu.ft. box is big enough. Im guessin for 90% of 12ers it will be. I guess mostly you want to get a woof designed for sealed boxes. i think shipping is free at certain places if you spend enough $$. dont expect too much at a budget level like this, and be aware that bass is addictive! once you have a little, typically you end up wanting more! that being said, an el-cheapo setup can probably match a high-dollar one up to a certain level. if anything, get a bigger amp than you need, just dont turn it up all the way (or enough to blow the woof). more power is always better since you are just as if not more likely to kill a woofer with clipping distortion (too little power) than by smoking it or breaking it physically (too much power). a trick is to set the amp gain so that the woofer is making all the sound it can safely make without distorting or bottoming out at the level that is comfortable to listen to as far as the other speakers go. that way, you can never blow anything without blowing your hearing too (which you will naturally avoid i hope). one other thing that would be useful is an amp with speaker-level inputs so you can just tap into one of the rear speakers (which you will likely remove) for signal...

[Stephen]

well if i got a hifoncs 30$ sub and a 80$ amp, with a 30$ box... thats like 130 [+shipping i guess]

Although i wasnt paying attention to compatibility...

[robspeed325i]

So i wonder what it would be for this box+ a cheap but decent sub+ amp, and i guess anything else you need

Id like to add a little more bass

And yet i have little $

:D

Amps have come down a lot in price, although its still possible to spend a lot. check out www.sonicelectronix.com or www.etronics.com for the best pricing. I myself have been out of the loop for the past few years, so I donno what is the best budget brand these days. Ive heard good things about Hifonics tho, being that they run cool and have good output. I really cant say for certain tho. As for subs, im going to run an alpine type-S, which is a budget woof that i had previously in a sealed-to-cabin sealed box that actually approached infinite baffle in size (3cuft+stuffing which made it like 6cuft). it produced a lot of low-end rumble but not a lot of punch. I do like my rumble! this setup is kind of an experiment. normally my sealed boxes are much larger than manufacturer recommendations and this one is spot-on the recommended size for my woof.

All told you can probably get a decent class-D amp and decent woofer, and this box for around $200-250.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_f...r-class-d.html

oh and you need an amp kit. I saw one on amazon by Legacy which is a 4gauge kit, designed to run from a underhood battery, so if you have a trunk batt you'll have a lot of extra wire. anyway the legacy kit was like $30 shipped. again its easy to spend a lot more on this stuff and beware some amp kits SAY they are 4 gauge when they just use a lot of fat insulation and the actual conductor is very small. copper aint cheap, plastic insulation is!

[Stephen]

So i wonder what it would be for this box+ a cheap but decent sub+ amp, and i guess anything else you need

Id like to add a little more bass

And yet i have little $

:D

[robspeed325i]

Transfer function has nothing to do with why you face woofers backwards.

Phase cancellation is why you face to the rear. I may write an article on it someday, but not here, not now.

I love how some retards say "you need to face it to the rear to get more sound inside"...no, if you seal the entire output of the woofer (as in woofer AND ports) into the cabin you will logically get the best performance...but it is so much more work to do so that I understand that some people out there just don't want to deal with the hassle or expense of doing it my way.

As far as sound, facing rear or up (or sideways, for that matter) makes virtually no difference, as long as you aren't facing the woofer forward.

100% "cabin sealed" or point that woofer elsewhere, guys.

phase delay (not sure what you mean by cancellation) *is* transfer function, or vice versa. the idea being that the long bass wave needs more room before it hits its peak. the other day I was in a stereo store and standing right in front of a 12" sub in a vented box with 1000w on it, and other than the room shaking, i felt almost nothing. when i walked around the room, the bass grew and shrank in intensity by dramatic amounts depending on where I was standing.

It is for that reason that I am putting my sub on a "leash" and am going to experiment on the best location and orientation within the trunk. Ive never listened to your box, and im sure its fine. you may overcome cabin-size issues with sheer brute force. no need to call other people names just because they disagree with you or are trying something else. (hmm, defensive much?) and its not about how much sound you get inside, its the quality of that sound, aka how much low bass you achieve vs 60hz boom. Again, not saying anything about your setup, for all I know it is 100% fantastic. This is just a way, way, way less expensive and simpler setup, which MAY suck a lot of ass! we shall see...

[NOMAD]

At a total cost of $50 for my used sub in a box I'll be ready for when you start building your boxes again...

[StereoInstaller1]

Transfer function has nothing to do with why you face woofers backwards.

Phase cancellation is why you face to the rear. I may write an article on it someday, but not here, not now.

I love how some retards say "you need to face it to the rear to get more sound inside"...no, if you seal the entire output of the woofer (as in woofer AND ports) into the cabin you will logically get the best performance...but it is so much more work to do so that I understand that some people out there just don't want to deal with the hassle or expense of doing it my way.

As far as sound, facing rear or up (or sideways, for that matter) makes virtually no difference, as long as you aren't facing the woofer forward.

100% "cabin sealed" or point that woofer elsewhere, guys.

[robspeed325i]

If this is a make it yourself box, is there a way to just get a different piece for the speaker opening so that the sub mounts on the angled side? Although, the sub facing back is supposedly the best sound.

nah its pre-assembled. what i would do is just get a piece of MDF and cover existing hole, then cut a new hole on opposite side. but from what ive read about transfer function, its best to face it backwards. key for us is to let the sound back into the cabin, opening as many holes as is possible! im gonna remove the stock mids, passthrough is already punched out, and possibly put a new hole in the middle of the package shelf (covered by a 6x9 grille or something...)