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  • ortholithiation
    replied
    dederic how much to ship your kits to Montreal? I had a look at your website before you revamped it. The kits look nice! PM me with shipping to montreal and I want to know the specs on the turbo you use in all your stages.

    Leave a comment:


  • Denny
    replied
    Originally posted by blueapplesoda View Post
    Ill just share my build, I had similar goals to yours. and very close results.

    motor is built for 20+ish psi, but i haven't upped the boost yet. still waiting on a friend to open up his dyno so i can extract more power.
    15psi, no dyno time yet, only track tuned using old school plug checking, afr/egt logging, and good ol ear knock sensing. roughly calculated using known comparisons about 300whp on 91 pump gas. So far, about 5,000 miles and 2 track days of burning brakes up to keep up with e46m's and e92m's

    starting from bottom up
    • stock crank
    • s50 rods
    • arp rod bolts
    • mcmaster special 12.9 main bolts
    • wiseco 8.5:1 pistons w/ceramic crown coating (i don't recommend the coating)
    • o-ring block using ISKY tool
    • stock headgasket
    • stock cylinder head, shaved 12thou
    • matched stock valve springs
    • ARP headstuds
    • stock intake mani
    • stock ignition system
    • NGK BPR7EIX iridium plugs (2steps colder)
    • Blitz SS dual drive BOV
    • medium intercooler (26"x9"x2.5")
    • 42lb lucas injectors
    • AEM Wideband
    • old style ebay manifold (chinese manifolds are really hit or miss, mines lasted everything I put it through)
    • custom big comp wheel FP garrett gt3071ish dualbb (negligible facts, .50 a/r comp, .82 a/r turb)
    • 3" straight ss w/ mandrel bent tubes all to muffler
    • DIYPNP (aka microsquirt pnp)
    • noisy as shit walbro 255lph


    don't ask how much it took for me to get to this point. although the current setup probably landed somewhere in the 3,000 mark for the engine alone, all the engines i went through "testing" and what not...ignorance is a bliss.

    Since you want to leave your bottom end stock, I would do this:
    • O-ring block
    • stock headgasket
    • ARP studs
    • whatever your head/porting/cam dreams
    • NGK BPR7EIX plugs
    • some tubular turbo manifold (home built, 666fab, or ebay)
    • dual ball bearing turbos spool. I went from the ebay t3/t4 hyrbrid, which is a great journal bearing internal wastegate turbo for 300whp, to the FP dualbb garrett, and was blown away on boost response. For the price difference....I'd still go for the Chinese turbos. They even have Chinese dual BB gt35r's. for the money you cant go wrong. i have yet to see one fail, in person.
    • DIYPNP
    • LC-1 Wideband
    • 42lb Bosch injectors (good for 400whp at stock fuel pressure)
    • 3" exhaust
    • maybe a fuel pump. I've heard rumors that stock fuel pump at stock fuel pressures can support 400whp, but please take this with a grain of salt. I have not tested this.


    This setup would support 350whp no problem, mild cam+15psi. Watch out for knock/ping, stock pistons are pretty fragile around the crown/1st ring land, so tune with caution my friend. This setup can be relatively cheap; stressing on the "relatively".

    In my 3 years of turbo m20 tuning experience, I've destroyed 2 sets of stock pistons and a cylinder block, "learning" how to build and tune m20s. My advice is only what I found to work.

    Of course, it's your responsibility to make sure everything is assembled correctly, and you won't blow anything up. Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible for you going destructo.



    like they say: Fast, Reliable, Cheap. Pick two.



    toodaloo motherfuckers,

    Derek
    DedericMS
    LOL...Fuc*$#%$$^ing great write up!

    Leave a comment:


  • blueapplesoda
    replied
    Ill just share my build, I had similar goals to yours. and very close results.

    motor is built for 20+ish psi, but i haven't upped the boost yet. still waiting on a friend to open up his dyno so i can extract more power.
    15psi, no dyno time yet, only track tuned using old school plug checking, afr/egt logging, and good ol ear knock sensing. roughly calculated using known comparisons about 300whp on 91 pump gas. So far, about 5,000 miles and 2 track days of burning brakes up to keep up with e46m's and e92m's

    starting from bottom up
    • stock crank
    • s50 rods
    • arp rod bolts
    • mcmaster special 12.9 main bolts
    • wiseco 8.5:1 pistons w/ceramic crown coating (i don't recommend the coating)
    • o-ring block using ISKY tool
    • stock headgasket
    • stock cylinder head, shaved 12thou
    • matched stock valve springs
    • ARP headstuds
    • stock intake mani
    • stock ignition system
    • NGK BPR7EIX iridium plugs (2steps colder)
    • Blitz SS dual drive BOV
    • medium intercooler (26"x9"x2.5")
    • 42lb lucas injectors
    • AEM Wideband
    • old style ebay manifold (chinese manifolds are really hit or miss, mines lasted everything I put it through)
    • custom big comp wheel FP garrett gt3071ish dualbb (negligible facts, .50 a/r comp, .82 a/r turb)
    • 3" straight ss w/ mandrel bent tubes all to muffler
    • DIYPNP (aka microsquirt pnp)
    • noisy as shit walbro 255lph


    don't ask how much it took for me to get to this point. although the current setup probably landed somewhere in the 3,000 mark for the engine alone, all the engines i went through "testing" and what not...ignorance is a bliss.

    Since you want to leave your bottom end stock, I would do this:
    • O-ring block
    • stock headgasket
    • ARP studs
    • whatever your head/porting/cam dreams
    • NGK BPR7EIX plugs
    • some tubular turbo manifold (home built, 666fab, or ebay)
    • dual ball bearing turbos spool. I went from the ebay t3/t4 hyrbrid, which is a great journal bearing internal wastegate turbo for 300whp, to the FP dualbb garrett, and was blown away on boost response. For the price difference....I'd still go for the Chinese turbos. They even have Chinese dual BB gt35r's. for the money you cant go wrong. i have yet to see one fail, in person.
    • DIYPNP
    • LC-1 Wideband
    • 42lb Bosch injectors (good for 400whp at stock fuel pressure)
    • 3" exhaust
    • maybe a fuel pump. I've heard rumors that stock fuel pump at stock fuel pressures can support 400whp, but please take this with a grain of salt. I have not tested this.


    This setup would support 350whp no problem, mild cam+15psi. Watch out for knock/ping, stock pistons are pretty fragile around the crown/1st ring land, so tune with caution my friend. This setup can be relatively cheap; stressing on the "relatively".

    In my 3 years of turbo m20 tuning experience, I've destroyed 2 sets of stock pistons and a cylinder block, "learning" how to build and tune m20s. My advice is only what I found to work.

    Of course, it's your responsibility to make sure everything is assembled correctly, and you won't blow anything up. Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible for you going destructo.



    like they say: Fast, Reliable, Cheap. Pick two.



    toodaloo motherfuckers,

    Derek
    DedericMS

    Leave a comment:


  • Denny
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    just thought I'd point out.. metric blues aren't head bolts, or at least they probably weren't designed to be head bolts. They're a bolt from the mcmaster catalog that happen to have similar dimensions to the stock E30 bolts. I'd rather have new OEM bolts than MBs personally. of course ARPs are full of win :)

    also the stock cam being best for a turbo isn't true either. It does work fine though.
    Cool! I did not know that...

    ARP's are best .. they are more expensive but worth it tried and true!!

    For the gasket is the stock one good enough or MLS, cometic, better

    for a starter turbo kit...http://cgi.ebay.ca/BMW-E30-Turbo-Int...item27ae4976c5
    Last edited by Denny; 01-29-2010, 09:15 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by mrsleeve View Post
    Holset hx35
    generic ebay header
    generic a2a intercooler
    other normal up grades needed for forced induction, Fuel pump, FPR, injectors and a MAP sensor to replace the MAF, Wide band o2 blow off and waste gate springs, and a MLS head gasket
    Mega squirt with a moderate tune and 17-19lbs of boost will get you to your goals

    You dont really need to do that much, stock cams are generally the best for turbo apps unless you are going all out for every last oz of power. IIRC stock comp ratio in for the m20 is 8.8:1 which is nearly perfect for a turbo car. I would stud the head though or at least upgrade to the metric blue head bolts.

    just thought I'd point out.. metric blues aren't head bolts, or at least they probably weren't designed to be head bolts. They're a bolt from the mcmaster catalog that happen to have similar dimensions to the stock E30 bolts. I'd rather have new OEM bolts than MBs personally. of course ARPs are full of win :)

    also the stock cam being best for a turbo isn't true either. It does work fine though.

    Leave a comment:


  • Denny
    replied
    Originally posted by mrsleeve View Post
    I totally agree with that but the blues are a bare bones requirement. I am a race wear guy my self as to get the same tensile strength you have to go to the arp 2000's
    I\m in the same boat as the OP. The ARP's are for a different car if am not mistaken as in the catalog the ARP's are not specified for our M20b25 engines...but they work anyways.

    Ebay headers look like they will all break with time...a good solid cast manifold is hard to find.

    Ebay turbo\s T3/T4 are apparently a LOT better then people think...for 200$ I will give it a shot and see...

    ETDMOTOR\s on ebay has a good barebones kit for under 1500$ ...then all you need is fuel/tuning..

    Taken from another site:

    joeuser528e - this guy knows what he is talking about.

    "Just FYI, the engine internals are very strong in these cars. You don't need to buy forged pistons, turbo cam, different crank, etc...

    People have reliably ran 400+hp on stock m20 internals. These motors are already the perfect compression, the secret is in tuning.

    Stock m20b25 engine. 9.0:1 compression.
    Welded head coolant channels. ~$200
    o-ringed block. ~$150
    ARP headstuds. ~$245
    Refresh the bottom end (bearings, rings) and replace all engine seals. ~500

    Right there you will have a bulletproof engine that will easily run 450+hp. Take the money you were going to spend on engine internals and spend it on tuning and making sure every other component of the setup is top quality. The internals are not the weak parts on these motors, just the headgaskets."
    Last edited by Denny; 01-29-2010, 08:04 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrsleeve
    replied
    I totally agree with that but the blues are a bare bones requirement. I am a race wear guy my self as to get the same tensile strength you have to go to the arp 2000's


    Originally posted by 1mz View Post
    I've been doing research on this topic for a while now, and I agree with just about everything he said - EXCEPT, the metric blues. If you read through a bunch of the old turbo build threads, you'll see all over the place people cautioning about the blues. Make the investment for ARP's.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1mz
    replied
    Originally posted by mrsleeve View Post
    Holset hx35
    generic ebay header
    generic a2a intercooler
    other normal up grades needed for forced induction, Fuel pump, FPR, injectors and a MAP sensor to replace the MAF, Wide band o2 blow off and waste gate springs, and a MLS head gasket
    Mega squirt with a moderate tune and 17-19lbs of boost will get you to your goals

    You dont really need to do that much, stock cams are generally the best for turbo apps unless you are going all out for every last oz of power. IIRC stock comp ratio in for the m20 is 8.8:1 which is nearly perfect for a turbo car. I would stud the head though or at least upgrade to the metric blue head bolts.

    I've been doing research on this topic for a while now, and I agree with just about everything he said - EXCEPT, the metric blues. If you read through a bunch of the old turbo build threads, you'll see all over the place people cautioning about the blues. Make the investment for ARP's.

    Leave a comment:


  • ortholithiation
    replied
    Thanks for the advice.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrsleeve
    replied
    Holset hx35
    generic ebay header
    generic a2a intercooler
    other normal up grades needed for forced induction, Fuel pump, FPR, injectors and a MAP sensor to replace the MAF, Wide band o2 blow off and waste gate springs, and a MLS head gasket
    Mega squirt with a moderate tune and 17-19lbs of boost will get you to your goals

    You dont really need to do that much, stock cams are generally the best for turbo apps unless you are going all out for every last oz of power. IIRC stock comp ratio in for the m20 is 8.8:1 which is nearly perfect for a turbo car. I would stud the head though or at least upgrade to the metric blue head bolts.

    Leave a comment:


  • ortholithiation
    replied
    Yea the kits are nice. But for 5 grand I can put together something way better, unless he is willing to take it to 3500. Plus I am dead set on tuning the car myself with megasquirt.

    But there is something to be said about a bolt on kit in a weekend.

    Leave a comment:


  • foofopps
    replied
    check out e30 tech and there is an entire turbo write up. From what I hear TCD kit in the end saves time and money and most importantly is reliable.

    http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74816

    Leave a comment:


  • Dominic49
    replied
    if i were to do it all over again i would of just bought it all at once from TCD


    http://www.turbochargingdynamics.com...5i_Stage_2.php


    sure it seems a little pricey but shoot him a call and he will cut you a deal. no headaches no heartaches just tire roasting fun :D

    Leave a comment:


  • ortholithiation
    started a topic Build it for me

    Build it for me

    There are many builds out there. I want your opinions, especially if you had to do it again.
    Goal: 300-350 hp with decent spool with a M20 from a 325is. I am willing to pull off the head, and change the cam, do a head job/arp head bolts/gasket etc, but would like to leave the bottom end stock.
    ebay kits = garbage
    I’m doing body work for the next 2-3 months, but want to start shopping early to try to snag good deals and to start piecing it together.
    The most important parts I’m considering:
    Which turbo and trim would be best for the described goals? Good one with an internal wastegate, or do I really need an external.
    Fuel management: Thinking megasquirt.
    Machine work: Cams? Porting? O-Ring vs just metal head gasket? Welding water jackets? What’s necessary and what’s not for my power levels.
    A good exhaust manifold that has clearance. I already have headers, so adapters (may or may not work)
    Obviously going to run a FMIC, injectors, pump, (probably keep the stock intake manifold)
    If you know a good thread or link to a great build, or just tell me what you are running and what you would change. Obviously speed= money and it’s not hard to rattle off the best stuff, but if you could keep in mind my modest power goals and share a good combo that would be great.
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