Holset m20 turbo Q's

[Farbin Kaiber]

Yes. Find the parts car we spoke of. Buy, and partout while getting your needed bits. The money you make from the rest of the car will more than cover the needed parts for the 24v swap, and likely net you 40% of what you would need to buy a used TRM kit. One sold, or was up for sale, from Duskin (the guy with the wb e36 m3/acs wb e36/r35 GTR) in the $4,000 range IIRC. You could do it in two stages. I would suggest that, 24v in, work out bugs, then get tarbo majik mystical unicorn noise making device.

[ST1G]

An m52 is a great motor for boost. Relatively cheap as a motor itself.
I'm on a phone so linking is annoying, but browse bimmerforum's forced induction section. It's literally all just boosted e36's.

Look at it like this:
Built/reliable/quality m20 turbo with meth and management making 400hp = $$$$
Stock swapped m/s5x turbo conservatively making same 400hp = $$$$
Stock m20 turbo being strained/abused making 400hp = $$ + $$ long run when shit breaks.
Stock m20 turbo conservatively making happy 300hp = $$

Well shoot, you guys are making me change my mind. My think is with budget constraints it would be eiser to get parts over time. Should I try to just first assemble parts for the motor swap, then move to the turbo?

I'll do some searching and reading and what i can find about which 24v turbo like you said. I really appreciate your help.

[ak-]

An m52 is a great motor for boost. Relatively cheap as a motor itself.
I'm on a phone so linking is annoying, but browse bimmerforum's forced induction section. It's literally all just boosted e36's.

Look at it like this:
Built/reliable/quality m20 turbo with meth and management making 400hp = $$$$
Stock swapped m/s5x turbo conservatively making same 400hp = $$$$
Stock m20 turbo being strained/abused making 400hp = $$ + $$ long run when shit breaks.
Stock m20 turbo conservatively making happy 300hp = $$

[Farbin Kaiber]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=171728

[ST1G]

What farbin said.
Even with a .140 MLS gasket lowering conpression, an m52 or s5x is anything but a dog daily driving and makes very good useable power literally anywhere in the power band with a 35r slapped on.

If I had 2 years with a second car to daily and the knowledge ahead of time, that's what I would of done slowly but surely.
So many tuning solutions out there for 24v now.

Just 24v then TRM tarbo.

I know Farbin has gone over this with me before, may times, i'm just retarded. My big thing is cost, i'm still in college and it seems like doing a 24v swap and then a turbo is quite a bit more expensive, but then again, maybe its worth it.

Farbin has stated that the best way to do this is get a 328i or m3 and that gets me pretty much all I need.

If i'm going to turbo wouldn't an m50 be fine?

Do you have any links to good 24v turbo builds? please excuse my noob.

[ak-]

What farbin said.
Even with a .140 MLS gasket lowering conpression, an m52 or s5x is anything but a dog daily driving and makes very good useable power literally anywhere in the power band with a 35r slapped on.

If I had 2 years with a second car to daily and the knowledge ahead of time, that's what I would of done slowly but surely.
So many tuning solutions out there for 24v now.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Just 24v then TRM tarbo.

[ak-]

M20's are stupid. It's hard to find a happy medium of power delivery that's quick as a daily and a monster when you want it to be without going into a higher liter build or corn juice/meth. They just don't flow that great.

With that said, an hx40 is too big. You need an hx35 w/ a 12cm housing for that proven m20 setup everyone does.

[ST1G]

I have an H1C with a 12cm housing and wish I had gone with something smaller. I started with an 18cm housing and didn't hit full boost (15psi) til mid-5k range. with the 12cm housing I hit full boost around 4500-5000, still not great. On the other hand it's been super reliable and was cheap as dirt. I've been running it for two years without burning any oil running an oil restrictor.

It's fun when it hits but you have to be on it to really get to the meat of the power band.

Hmmm. That's no good. I would ideally like something that hits in the 3k rangeish.

Maybe i'll skip it, a deal is only a deal if you need it.

[codrum]

I have an H1C with a 12cm housing and wish I had gone with something smaller. I started with an 18cm housing and didn't hit full boost (15psi) til mid-5k range. with the 12cm housing I hit full boost around 4500-5000, still not great. On the other hand it's been super reliable and was cheap as dirt. I've been running it for two years without burning any oil running an oil restrictor.

It's fun when it hits but you have to be on it to really get to the meat of the power band.

[ST1G]

I ran an H1c and its very late spooling and lazy turbo, works well if all you do is drag race and do freeway pulls. For Daily driving and auto-x I would suggest getting something quicker spooling like a gt30 or 20g.

Your car will still be stupid fast in a straight line with a holset but driveability will be lacking.

Meh, I don't auto-x. But maybe I would like something that spools up a little faster. What range was yours spooling?

[saturnv7890]

It's fun as hell when the boost hits though! It's not like I need boost for daily driving anyway

[TheTacoMan]

Bottom line holsets are way too bug for m20s.

[kamotors]

I ran an H1c and its very late spooling and lazy turbo, works well if all you do is drag race and do freeway pulls. For Daily driving and auto-x I would suggest getting something quicker spooling like a gt30 or 20g.

Your car will still be stupid fast in a straight line with a holset but driveability will be lacking.

[ST1G]

I'm guessing you have gotten cracked out on kamotors build thread already, right?

Actually no, I've read that thread, but until you mentioned it I didn't even realize that was the turbo he was using. Better go get cracked out.