e30 M10 engine cuts out

[3bimmersover25]

Try cleaning your afm. Possible vac leaks.

Have cleaned AFM and flap is moving freely

Problem solved - replaced the aftermarket fuel pump that appeared to be fault, replaced the FPR with a proper 3 bar unit (PO had fitted a 2.5 bar unit) - problem remained - then I decided to swap the tps due to it being an easy job.

The old one was full of mayo from the HG failure and was not clicking. Car is now running great.......well fault free at least!

[Smelser]

fuse 28 is power antenna/cig lighter. (Hot all times)

was pulling 50 whatevers on the multimeter.......[/quote]

thats kinda general. Its AMPS that get used when looking at draw.
I HIGHLY doubt you are pulling 50 amps. I would damn near bet the farm on it. is it 5.0 .50 .05 .005 look for a symbol and where the decimal is.

[glnr13]

My FP set up seems a bit unusual. I appear to have a external pump under the car and a sender unit with a screen and no pump in the tank....? that normal?

i've been running my m10 like this for nearly a year with a new pump and previous owner had the same setup for unknown mileage. seems to be ok.

[3bimmersover25]

Bought a fuel pressure gauge and pressure starts out at 3 bar but is dropping to around 2 bar after 10-15mins running. That's also when problems start. Looks like new pump required.

[3bimmersover25]

I'm confused. The plastic piece is probably broken by now. I know mine was. Just throw some zip ties on there if u feel like its moving around. Of course this should only be a temporary fix.

What i mean is it starts off good, revs ok under gas then dies when i button off - if i plant the boot again there is no response for a couple of seconds then its away again. Then, it starts dying when under gas until it only runs well on light throttle.

I think can hear the fuel pump so i highly suspect the pump.

Fixed the coolant loss issue, it was that short piece of hose between the hardline under the alt and the water pump. Looks like i over tightened the clamp........faaaaark!

My FP set up seems a bit unusual. I appear to have a external pump under the car and a sender unit with a screen and no pump in the tank....? that normal?

[3bimmersover25]

fuse 28 is power antenna/cig lighter. (Hot all times)[/quote]

was pulling 50 whatevers on the multimeter.......

[E30_Pare]

I'm confused. The plastic piece is probably broken by now. I know mine was. Just throw some zip ties on there if u feel like its moving around. Of course this should only be a temporary fix.

[3bimmersover25]

After the last drive it almost feels like the throttle is flapping shut and the accelerator cable is not working for a moment. Where the cable connects to the throttle body it is held in by a large plastic block that the cable passes through. Should the cable pass through the gap at the end of that block (furthest away from the pivot point) or the one close to the middle?

[solo318]

check the engine grounds at the intake manifold. your symptoms all point to a loose ground and the coolant temp sensor grounds throught the engine.

[E30_Pare]

Pull the coolant temp sensor & if it looks corroded then it's most likely toast. That goes for any coolant sensors.

[3bimmersover25]

I think he means coolant temp sensor.

... I'm kinda "eh" on that idea. but they're so cheap there's nothing wrong with replacing it.

So is it the white one that can affect the running, i thought it was the brown one, the thermo-time ? I have one of those also.

[E30_Pare]

I was poping my fuse 28 constantly for a while. Turned out that my cig lighter was grounding itself somehow. So I replaced it with a used one. No more blowing fuses :| oh btw I deleted my antenna a long time ago.

[Jaxx_]

Which one is it, out of the three that are fitted in the alloy housing?

it's the white one. I think there's only one white one... I hope. :)

fuse 28 is power antenna/cig lighter. (Hot all times)

[3bimmersover25]

I think he means coolant temp sensor.

... I'm kinda "eh" on that idea. but they're so cheap there's nothing wrong with replacing it.

Which one is it, out of the three that are fitted in the alloy housing?

Started up after some battery charging, checked voltage at battery with battery light of and was pretty healthy so alternator looks ok. Found a current drain until fuse 28 removed. At least that solves the dead battery.

Ran fine to start revving to 4000rpm (woohoo) with and i thought "YES!!!" but then erratic temp readings began and its playing up again. Got home to find major coolant loss from bad choice of used rad cap.

.....seems ok under gas but cuts out when i lift off. Tacho drops to around 1500rpm then away again. Done for the night but will be checking accelerator cable and CTS.

[Jaxx_]

Cts?

I think he means coolant temp sensor.

... I'm kinda "eh" on that idea. but they're so cheap there's nothing wrong with replacing it.