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DIY: Delete M10 IAC and cold start injector.

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    DIY: Delete M10 IAC and cold start injector.

    I've run this setup for about 60,000 miles without any issues.














    $12 Z1 intake flange

    $2.99 vacuum caps

    #2
    Will try this but Do you have any pics of where the hose from fuel rail goes to? Thanks!

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      #3
      I've also seen the E21 mechanical warmup regulator used...

      t
      now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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        #4
        Originally posted by AEdward View Post
        Will try this but Do you have any pics of where the hose from fuel rail goes to? Thanks!

        you'd run one piece of fuel line from the rail to the fuel filter.

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          #5
          Thanks for this. How's your idle when the engine is cold and warmed up?

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            #6
            That should be fine in warmer climates, but warm up here in the north would be difficult.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Pavane View Post
              Thanks for this. How's your idle when the engine is cold and warmed up?


              i have my cold idle set at about 950 and warm idle at about 1200. in the winter i have to bump it up maybe a 1/4 turn to account for the colder air decreased the idle.

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                #8
                Just ordered a cover today.. mine has all sort of wierd going on.. everything tests okay, but rpm is steady at 1500.. gonna do the delete as a “test” and see if anything changes.

                UPDATE: So, it seems my fuel system is set up slightly different (or I’m just being dumb).. there are 2 separate hard lines that come into the engine compartment by the driver side wheel area.. one line goes to the filter, which is then connected to the rail.. The second is routed straight to the pressure regulator.. there’s no T junction to the cold injector, it was routed directly to a second port on the rail.. I’m not sure which fuel line to connect where..
                Last edited by jRonin; 12-22-2018, 03:08 PM.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by jRonin View Post
                  UPDATE: So, it seems my fuel system is set up slightly different (or Iím just being dumb).. there are 2 separate hard lines that come into the engine compartment by the driver side wheel area.. one line goes to the filter, which is then connected to the rail.. The second is routed straight to the pressure regulator.. thereís no T junction to the cold injector, it was routed directly to a second port on the rail.. Iím not sure which fuel line to connect where..

                  Looking for some guidance on fuel line plumbing.. Iíve checked a few other posts, but havenít seen anything regarding what lines to connect where for the cold injector delete.. Gonna start a thread tomorrow if I donít find anything by then.

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                    #10
                    I'm doing this now, anybody notice downsides of doing this?

                    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

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                      #11
                      When i get my car back running I will try this ! I am so tired of all the mess on the m10 motor :(. My one buddies s2000 is so tidy, and my buddies supra with 2jz is super tidy as well... I just want a clean engine bay and reliable e30 :P

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                        #12
                        How the heck do you adjust your idle with this mod ?
                        Pulling the accel cable a bit or what ?
                        I already bought the plate , but here gas aint cheap to do this :/

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Alex18i View Post
                          How the heck do you adjust your idle with this mod ?
                          Pulling the accel cable a bit or what ?
                          I already bought the plate , but here gas aint cheap to do this :/
                          there is a butterfly valve stop adjustment on the throttle body.
                          '84 318i M10B18 | 93whp/90ftlbs | 147- Safari Beige | MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step

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                            #14
                            Keep in mind that if you make this modification, you might need to play with the throttle switch as well. After you adjust idle at the throttle plate, the throttle switch will likely be off now.

                            If you do it: Use a 325e/325i distributor cap bolt and a tail light nut (8mm) to make a new butterfly stop screw. You will need to tweak it here and there so it will be easier with a better piece of hardware there. Put a drop of blue thread locker on the threads so it will not wander. The nut is for locking it in place

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