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Got my head back today from the machine shop. I have to go and clean up the ports from the porting I did yesterday. I just need to smooth out the surfaces, I just wanted to get it to the machine shop so when it was done I could get right on re-assembling it. After cleaning up the ports I need to lap the valves and then I can put it all back together. Got a couple cans of brake cleaner to clean it up after the work to be sure there is no metal shavings left in the head. Hopefully it will be going on tomorrow!! I will try to get some pics up for those who are following, if any at all. -
Anybody still following this thread? Just wondering if I am talking to myself, if so, give me a bump.Leave a comment:
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Got my "i" head, paid $200 for it but it is in good shape and picked it up pretty locally. Tore it down today and bagged all the parts. Tomorrow I will begin cleaning all the casting marks and imperfections in the intake ports. The intake ports look to be good so no real porting will be done there, just smoothing out some lines and taking a little material out of the valve bucket. The exhaust ports however, there will be some porting work done there. The exhaust gaskets are a bit larger than the head so gasket matching and smoothing of the ports will be done on that side. If all goes well the head should be off to the machine shop in the next couple days to get decked. re-assembly will begin shortly after, then we will see if all this work will be worth it. If I can leave 2 fat black marks on the street and some nice black circle in the parking lot next door, I think I will be happy! We'll see!!Leave a comment:
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I am going to search out an i head and in the meantime get this thing all cleaned up and figure out where all the parts go. I have most of the left over parts figured out except one, it looks like some sort of cover, but I am sure I can find during re-assembly. BTW, Tut, found out that plastic piece is either the top radiator support of the top coil support. Regardless, I know where it bolts to the car. I think the only thing concerning me now would be the order of the pulleys for the crank, and there is a thick tapered ?washer? that appears to go to the crank pulley setup too, but I will check the manual for that. Hopefully, the is a illustration showing the breakdown of that section.........hopefully. Today I am just cleaning up the engine bay and I found a control arm bushing in the trunk, so I need to check them.Leave a comment:
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Got the head set today and finished port matching the intake/exhaust manifolds. Friday I should be able to commit to buying a decent i head, and when I get it, a port job and valve lapping will be in order. After that is all assembled I will pick up the water pump and timing belt and (hopefully) get this running! Cant wait!!Leave a comment:
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You have a pretty steep learning curve ahead of you, bubba.
The M20 is about the easiest motor I have ever worked on, outside of the aircooled VW motors.
If I were you, since you need a head anyway, buy an M20B25, AKA the "i" motor. Pull the head off, taking a ton of pictures, take the head off to the maching shop, get it inspected/cleaned and replace the valve guide seals, plus a fresh resurface.
GL!
LukeLeave a comment:
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I thought an M50 was a complete motor. I may have to look into that. I submitted a thread request for noobies like me who dont know the "lingo" yet but I guess the moderators dont think it is important enough to post. All I know is I have an E30 with an M20 motor, anything beyond that is still unknown to me. I know they are all codes for year/engine model but I am still unsure as to what they are. I will be headed to the junkyard in the next few days so I will have to see what I can find. Thanks for all the help!Leave a comment:
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Here's your solution... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=137595 (if you can find a way to get it to you.)
The question to ask is do you still have the old head? If so, you can use it's cam & springs to upgrate the s-eta head. Otherwise, a quick search on Ebay found an 885 head starting at $20 with a Buy it now of $200.
Keep looking... The parts are out there.Leave a comment:
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Sure you can... It's called an M50 swap.
The differences between the motors (M20 & M5x) would require substancial creative engineering to solve fitment and drive issues. The first and formost on my mind is the M20 is belt driven, while the M5x is chain driven.
If I remember correctly, a few M20 24 valve prototype heads were made once upon a time, but haven't seen the light of day in many years.Leave a comment:
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So, I am guessing I cant put a 24v head on my m20 bottom end, huh? I havent seen any posts about this and I seen a couple in the classifieds and they appear different.Leave a comment:
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What a let down. Well, I guess I found the flaw in my deal. Hopefully this is the only problem I face re-assembling this thing........but I doubt it. I just keep looking at this thing sitting in my yard and it looks so sexy, I cant wait to get it up and running!Leave a comment:
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The 200 head from an eta is wrong in so many ways for your car. First, it has a 4 journal eta cam, not the 7 journal one for your "i". Second, it has the wrong size intake ports (smaller as you mentioned), and will not match properly with your intake. Third, smaller valves, 40mm intake and 34mm exhaust. Forth, the combustion chamber is different than what you need for your pistons. (And smaller too!)
So the answer is no, it won't work. I suppose it might (emphasis on might) work if you were stranded in the Mojave. But to go through all that work to get the head installed correctly (porting, chamber reshaping, etc), it still would be a dog.
Find a "i" head or even a s-eta head (cheaper option). That way you'll know it correctly connects with your other pieces.Leave a comment:
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