2.8L M20 build - Now with 2.7L!

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Simple_Smith
    replied
    Update?

    Leave a comment:


  • acolella76
    replied
    Originally posted by Rustyduktape
    Good luck man! I wish I had the knowledge to help, haha. Can't wait to get back home and start working on my car! I want to go 2.8 at some point, but after reading this whole thread, I'm going to wait a long time before I even attempt anything like this. I'm going to buy an m20 this summer and disassemble the whole thing, just for fun and to get a good understanding of how these engines work. Can't wait to read more about your progress!
    Well if there's one thing you should learn from all of this, it is to be very meticulous! haha I normally am but I guess I must have just gotten lazy towards the end of all this.

    Originally posted by TS87325IS
    Make sure you have your evap purge line attached to the bottom of the throttle body.
    It is attached... now ;P


    Not the problem though :(

    Leave a comment:


  • TS87325IS
    replied
    Make sure you have your evap purge line attached to the bottom of the throttle body.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rustyduktape
    replied
    Good luck man! I wish I had the knowledge to help, haha. Can't wait to get back home and start working on my car! I want to go 2.8 at some point, but after reading this whole thread, I'm going to wait a long time before I even attempt anything like this. I'm going to buy an m20 this summer and disassemble the whole thing, just for fun and to get a good understanding of how these engines work. Can't wait to read more about your progress!

    Leave a comment:


  • acolella76
    replied
    Cool. I will have to try that tonight.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Ostrich won't tell you codes, but if you data trace you can see if the AFM, TPS, CTS etc are all working like they should.

    Leave a comment:


  • acolella76
    replied
    Originally posted by Wanganstyle
    perhaps there is a vacuum leak on the bizzach tube, intake manifold or TB?
    I know the bitch tube is sealing well...as is the TB and intake. I think it would have to be a pretty big vacuum leak to do this though!

    Originally posted by dinanm3atl
    Did we try the TPS? Like it is not reading unless floored?
    Code reader didn't show any codes for the TPS. I floored your mom.


    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
    this reminds me, Alex. You have an Ostrich and can monitor all of the engine's sensors to make sure they are all working properly...
    Oh? I didn't know I was able to do that. I used a code reader to see if I have any codes, so I'm not sure if the Ostrich will be able to show much more?

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by dinanm3atl
    Did we try the TPS? Like it is not reading unless floored?
    this reminds me, Alex. You have an Ostrich and can monitor all of the engine's sensors to make sure they are all working properly...

    Leave a comment:


  • dinanm3atl
    replied
    Did we try the TPS? Like it is not reading unless floored?

    Leave a comment:


  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    perhaps there is a vacuum leak on the bizzach tube, intake manifold or TB?

    Leave a comment:


  • acolella76
    replied
    It buzzes when it's on and the little toy inside moves freely, so it's definitely working!

    I am thinking about trying out another ECU, and if that doesn't work I will probably give up and take it to a shop.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bmwman92
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
    Highly likely.

    Turn the key on and hold the IAC, is it "buzzing"?

    Mine just went out on me on Friday, had to use the throttle cable to hang it open a bit for my car to run until the new one gets here. Sucks, I have about 5-6 straight IAC's on the shelf and my boot requires the 90* IAC, FTL.

    If your referring to me the icv is working. if you have any ideas my thread is here.


    sorry im not trying to thread jack

    but yeah id check your idle control valve, tps, and if you have one your cold start injector.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by tinkwithanr
    bad idle air control valve...
    Highly likely.

    Turn the key on and hold the IAC, is it "buzzing"?

    Mine just went out on me on Friday, had to use the throttle cable to hang it open a bit for my car to run until the new one gets here. Sucks, I have about 5-6 straight IAC's on the shelf and my boot requires the 90* IAC, FTL.

    Leave a comment:


  • tinkwithanr
    replied
    bad idle air control valve...

    Leave a comment:


  • Bmwman92
    replied
    The problem your having sounds like mine have to hold the gas to start but mine will idle fine just no response from the pedal

    Leave a comment:

Working...