2.8L M20 build - Now with 2.7L!

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  • acolella76
    replied
    Originally posted by Wanganstyle
    what CEL's do you have?
    None, it is throwing no codes!

    Also, forgot to mention this, but with the intake boot and everything off it will actually run. Of course I have to hold the throttle open cause of all the unmetered air, but it doesn't need the starter to be engaged. Even still... it has to be WOT just to start. Doesn't really make sense to me.

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  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    what CEL's do you have?

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  • acolella76
    replied
    Bump! I need help!

    -Getting 3bar fuel at the fuel rail
    -Getting 12v at the injectors
    -Injectors are showing 14.7ohm resistance

    -Sparking at the plugs
    -Plugs, cap, rotor all clean and good

    -Timed correctly

    It will only start with the throttle wide open. What could this mean? Bad TPS, not getting enough air, getting too much fuel... ?

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  • acolella76
    replied
    compression is there

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  • UserError
    replied
    If there's fuel and spark, check for compression. That'd be step 1 in my book.

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  • acolella76
    replied
    The motor won't start! It will turn over like it wants to start and will kind of stumble a little bit like it is about to start, but never actually does.

    -Getting spark at the plugs
    -REEKS of fuel, so I'm assuming there is fuel.
    -Timed properly.

    What do?

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  • acolella76
    replied
    Yeah, went back to stock gasket. Even with the copper spray the MLS gasket was still giving me some trouble.

    So frothy oil... bad? Change the oil?
    Last edited by acolella76; 04-09-2012, 12:37 PM.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Stock gasket?

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  • acolella76
    replied
    Checked VTP clearance and all is well in the world. .093" with the head gasket uncompressed which should be plenty, no?

    Assembled the motor and everything, primed the oil pump, and the oil is frothy... is that bad? And if it is how should I fix that?

    Piston deck height:


    So beautiful




    Can you tell I had an exhaust leak :rofl:

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  • Massimo
    replied
    Didn't Xworks have a method that didn't require removing the head.

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  • Simple_Smith
    replied
    Putty, play doh, tootsie rolls, whatever it takes

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  • SkiFree
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
    don't assume anything.
    I cannot agree more, break out the putty. Looking forward to hearing this thing run properly.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by acolella76
    Valve clearance should be fine, it is only sitting 0.042mm closer to the deck than the 2.8 motor, which had plenty of clearance.
    don't assume anything.

    It makes an ASS out of U and ME.

    "Supposedly" I was safe on the eta pistons to take .025" off a head with .080" VTP clearance. I took .015" off the head and .020" off the head gasket and my valves are making a racket.

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  • acolella76
    replied
    Valve clearance should be fine, it is only sitting 0.042mm closer to the deck than the 2.8 motor, which had plenty of clearance.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by acolella76
    Got the block and everything back from the machine shop! Had the block shaved .080" (2.032 mm) and honed. They even cleaned and painted the block for me. It looks fucking good, I dont even want to put it together now.

    Plastigage'd the main and rod bearings and everything is dead nuts. Went to install everything and I forgot the assembly lube and ring compressor at a friend's house! Will update with pictures tonight or tomorrow!
    Check valve to piston clearance.

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