Someone diagnose this

[acolella76]

Nevermind, fixed it. For some reason my tune got wiped out of the ECU so there was no timing data or anything for it to start up with. Plugged in my laptop, downloaded tune, started right up. Still kind of bucked a little on the road, but I think that is because the CPS isn't torqued down to tightly and is able to move around.

[CarsSuck]

Have you checked to see that you're getting good, clean power from the alternator? You had the bouncy read from the coil, right? My car did all kinds of whacky shit when the voltage regulator wore out. Its like a 10 min fix if you have the bosch alternator.

[1fastETA]

Sounds like a bad afm

[jlevie]

No spark and no fuel means:

No timing data to the DME
A DME power or ground issue
No START signal to the DME
Bad DME

[acolella76]

Well now I am stuck in my school parking deck. Now I am getting no spark and no fuel. CPS tested fine per the tests in the Bentley, ECU is getting power. What do?

[jlevie]

I don't see a problem in undoing what you have done. Clip the power and grounding wires at the splices and crimp on new lugs.

[acolella76]

CPS has not even 1k miles on it.

Trust me, if this was something i could 'undo' I would undo it. But it's not possible for me to 'undo' spliced wires unless I go buy a new harness... which at this point I'm not willing to do.

Just for chuckles I checked the volts at the coil and the reading on the multimeter was very very shaky. Went and tested our Chump Car and the reading was smooth... changed coils and nothing different. So I am going to go back and re-solder all of the splices I made. Anyone have any other suggestions?

[CarsSuck]

Another part in that vicinity would be the CPS and its wiring. Ohm that bish out.

When i had to change the CPS on my car, the wires were very brittle and it was close to spec but not quite. It would go on the fritz whenever it got cold out, and act like your car but not nearly as bad.

[Andy.B]

Uncover the coil wires.
"I changed something, and my car now runs like crap. What do you think is wrong?"

When I worked @ a Land Rover dealer a Range Rover came in with a bolt forced into the suspensions air pump intake, where a plastic intake should have been. Owner took off plastic and threaded in bolt, because who knows why, then, when the suspension immediately faulted out, had it towed to the dealer. Removed bolt, charged customer an hour diagnosis.

Op, undo the last thing you did, THEN, if you still have a problem start checking other systems.

[acolella76]

I was leaning towards stuck AFM.

Then I read how it changed after you did something.

Pull the looming. I don't see how that could really affect anything, but stranger things have happened.

But I'm still leaning towards stuck AFM too.

Thats what I thought too! Took the AFM out and popped the cover off, but it was pretty clean inside and out. I cleaned the inside with MAF cleaner and the contacts with rubbing alcohol just to be safe though.

Doesn't the resistance of the wire change with length?
You should put it back to stock configuration and ohm out the coil itself.

Don't know, does it? Like I said before... the problem didn't start after I extended the wires, it's been running for a while with the extended wires. The problem started when I decided to cover the wires with plastic looming

[paperplane94]

Doesn't the resistance of the wire change with length?
You should put it back to stock configuration and ohm out the coil itself.

[TurboJake]

I was leaning towards stuck AFM.

Then I read how it changed after you did something.

Pull the looming. I don't see how that could really affect anything, but stranger things have happened.

But I'm still leaning towards stuck AFM too.

[acolella76]

Wires, plugs, cap, rotor, etc. all done this past summer. Still look brand new. I doubt shortening the wires is going to make a difference... splicing wires is splicing wires, not really much to mess up there. I made sure to use the same gauge wire by cutting off the coil wires from a spare harness that I have. Even in the same mounting location the coil is still acting up.

[jlevie]

Yeah, TPS is fine.

About a week ago I extended the coil wires (12v and ground) so I could hide the coil behind the headlight. No problems happened after that, but just the other night I thought it would look cleaner if I put the wires in that plastic wire shielding so I did. Didn't take the wires off of the coil, I just covered them. Ever since I covered the wires the car has been doing this, so I'm just guessing it's coil related. Didn't really think about that until now. But idk what is going on/how to fix it.

???? Sounds like a case of remove gun from holster, point at foot, pull trigger. Then yell loudly in pain.

Put the coil back where it was in the OE configuration and return the wiring wiring to its original state. Go from there. Oh yeah, unless new, replace the ignition wires with new parts.

[gath]

Check your grounding points, especially the oil pan to body cable and clean them well.