m20b27 loss of enigne power....

[Xmedina]

No, not sure how u would do that care to explain?

[andrewm]

Normal is going to vary from gauge to gauge, I typically look for consistency. Did you do a leak down?

[Xmedina]

No one wants to help me?

[Xmedina]

bump for some help....

[Xmedina]

ive tested 2 and they both read 175, is that what normal m20b27's run?

[andrewm]

Try a leak down/compression test.

[Xmedina]

any one else care to take a stab at it?

[Xmedina]

no i havent but how would that affect the way the ar drives if that controls idle? the car idles fine.....only cuts out under a load after 10 min of driving...

[TurboJake]

Did you replace the green box thats next to the ECU? It's the idle control module.

[Xmedina]

Im so lost with this thing....some one plz help

[Xmedina]

Well we changed both CPS and still nothing.

Whats next guys? A lighter and a gallon of gas?

[Xmedina]

Well thats def. one of the things i have not checked is there a way to test it before trying to change it? And is it the one with the black clip or the gret clip?

[SLEEPYDUB]

My 86 325es would start and run, then as it got warm would just quit. It wouldn't start until it cooled off. Turns out I had a bad crankshaft position sensor. It was in the process of failing, but would work well enough cold to start and run for a bit.

There are 2 in an ETA located on the bell housing. They're both the same. I'd suggest trying to swap them first, as one is critical to the engine running.

In my case, when I swapped them, the sensor gave up the ghost and completely failed . . . thus I knew I had the right part.

Good advice

[mrgraphics]

My 86 325es would start and run, then as it got warm would just quit. It wouldn't start until it cooled off. Turns out I had a bad crankshaft position sensor. It was in the process of failing, but would work well enough cold to start and run for a bit.

There are 2 in an ETA located on the bell housing. They're both the same. I'd suggest trying to swap them first, as one is critical to the engine running.

In my case, when I swapped them, the sensor gave up the ghost and completely failed . . . thus I knew I had the right part.

[SLEEPYDUB]

Im his roommate and I've been trying to help him fix it as well.

Crucial parts he has changed:
Spark plugs - From autolite to NGK
Wires - Old ones came apart
Cap - Old one was very worn, new one made no change
Rotor - Same as above
Coil - No change
02 Sensor - No change
Both Fuel pumps - Helped a little, but problem came back
Fuel filter - Helped, but problem came back yet again
DME - no change
AFM - Every AFM he has tried has net a different outcome. Some ran better, some ran worse. The one on there now seems to work ok, but still hesitant, and the car back fires very loudly under heavy load

TPS - Disconnecting the TPS currently does nothing when the car idles. He changed it out from another car, but we really dont know if it worked on the other car or not

IACV - unplugging makes a big difference in idle, but it should have no effect on cruising and wot

FPR - No change
No vacuum leaks as far as we can tell. Did the starting fluid test, no luck.
Injectors have been changed twice with no results

He has also replaced the sensors associated with the cooling. Theres quite a few of them, but he replaced them with used junkyard parts so theres no telling if they worked or not. But, the only sensor that I can deem useful for replacing would be the CTS that sends a signal to the ecu.

Those are the wrong injectors. Put the originals (or ones from a 9/87 or earlier ETA) back in.

The problems that show up after the car has run for 5 minutes or so suggest that the cause is something that comes into play once the engine goes into closed loop operation or, this being an ETA, when the cold start system drops out. My first suspicion would be intake leaks.

Exactly what I was thinking. Although, I have thought of a lot of things wrong, but this sounds the closest. However, wont the eta run in open loop once its at wot? His issues are at wot and cruising.