here is the issue with big counterweights.
they will hit the bottom of the piston.
i machined off the entire skirt and shown is a 135 mm rod which would work but stick out of the block.
if you used a 130 mm rod it would put the piston close to the top of the block but it would foul the pin boss. you do would need to machine the crank counterweights to get this crank to work as per a fellow members 2.8L build.
by my calculations with a 89.6 mm crank the relative position would be unchanged from shown. the 89.6 mm crank has 2.5 mm smaller counterweight but has 2.8 mm bigger throw so much the same
there are 84mm cranks in oz and UK which have smaller counterweights dont know about the US (this crank came from a US car)
they will hit the bottom of the piston.
i machined off the entire skirt and shown is a 135 mm rod which would work but stick out of the block.
if you used a 130 mm rod it would put the piston close to the top of the block but it would foul the pin boss. you do would need to machine the crank counterweights to get this crank to work as per a fellow members 2.8L build.
by my calculations with a 89.6 mm crank the relative position would be unchanged from shown. the 89.6 mm crank has 2.5 mm smaller counterweight but has 2.8 mm bigger throw so much the same
there are 84mm cranks in oz and UK which have smaller counterweights dont know about the US (this crank came from a US car)
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