Originally posted by mzollo
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M20 No Start, Cranks All Day
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well, the main issue with that plug is that the rubber boots hold back water and sometimes coolant which leaks from the throttle body, granted my coolant lines to the TB were deleted but my boots still had loads of coolant(OLD) and water. so i had to delete the plug all together.yes my corrosion was green and looked like an old battery terminal
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Originally posted by mzollo View Post**EDIT** i see you checked it, but make sure its not coroded etc
please check plug C191 it is underneath the intake boot and throttle body it is a round 7 pin plug that controls your injector harness. notorious for corrosion and holding water. i had a similar issue
Edit: Checked that plug, doesn't seem out of the ordinary. In your experience was the evidence of corrosion fairly obvious? Mine is a little dirty but doesn't seem bad. I don't think it was ever exposed to rain or anything.Last edited by eskimo810; 06-21-2013, 10:13 AM.
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**EDIT** i see you checked it, but make sure its not coroded etc
please check plug C191 it is underneath the intake boot and throttle body it is a round 7 pin plug that controls your injector harness. notorious for corrosion and holding water. i had a similar issue
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostWhen cranking is there spark, correct rail pressure, and injector firing?
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I should have said this earlier, but the fuel pump is good. Sends a nice healthy flow of fuel out of the line leading to the fuel rail. A good blue spark is also present.
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If you smack your fuel pump will trying to start the car and it starts you have found your problem its a fuel pump that's an easy check
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So the fuel pump is for sure not turning on? If the cps is good and the relay is good you should have power to the pump. Test for power at the pump while cranking, it must be cranking not just key on. If no power is present look at the relays
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When cranking is there spark, correct rail pressure, and injector firing?
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Update: Bought a new CPS and got it this morning. Still no start, in fact, the only change is that my multimeter is now showing the resistance as a touch over 500ohm. I'll keep investigating today, welcome to any suggestions! Thanks for the help so far.
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Change the cps , check the main relay or fuel pump relay. Try doing a stomp test? Did you get the cps and that spark plug wire adapter mixed up? They look the same.
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Alright so I've gotten around to trying some things.
-I swapped in my old 153 ECU with no chip and it acted exactly as it has been. I put the new 173 back in.
-I can hear the fuel pump click when I turn the key to the "on" position.
-I started going through the troubleshooting guide that jlevie posts often: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...CPS+resistance
Resistance across DME pins 47 & 48 is higher than it should be at around 670 ohm (+/- 15, analog meters FTL.) I get the same reading when I test the pins on the connector near the front of the engine. Is this the sign of a failed CPS? Or would there be no resistance if it was failed?
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Check your cps. After that check your cps again, and right after that make sure to check your cps
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