glad you went with your gut
jeez
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thanks everybody for the replies and tips.
went with my gut on this one and just turned the crank that last bit to align the bottom mark with the belt off.
got it all back together nice and neat, fired right up with a nice sound.
feels a lot less sluggish too.
...so glad I dont have to worry about a questionable belt for a while.Leave a comment:
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This is how I have had the marks line up. My setup was like the second picture. For some reason, if I lined the crank perfect and the cam, when the belt got tensioned the crank would be off half a tooth to the right (clockwise from the mark).
What I did last time, was set the crank a hair early on the crank. Wrapped the belt around the crank, the intermediate shaft (with the slack on it taught, youll see), then over the crank. It just barley slips on the tensioner. Usually it goes just perfect for me, but thats how ive done it. Always triple+ check the marks.Leave a comment:
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Remove the pulleys and harmonic balancer. Then rotate the engine until the mark on the crank hub lines up with the notch in the lower inner timing cover (see post #5) when the mark on the cam sprocket is close to the mark on the head. If the belt was installed incorrectly the cam sprocket may not be lined up. Remove the belt and rotate the cam until the marks are lined up and install the belt, starting on the load (left side). With the belt and the tensioner free to move, rotate the engine through two revolutions stopping when the crank marks line up and then check the cam/head marks.
The cam rotates at half crank speed, so rotation is done until the crank lines up. Then one looks at the cam sprocket marks.Leave a comment:
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My crystal ball is acting up so i can't say for sure.
I would do what i said in the first part of post #11 if i was in your shoes.
The chances of someone for some reason putting a pulley on wrong and compensating for it by shifting the timing belt and not making a new mark would be very, very small in my book.
Someone prob put the belt on wrong, it wouldn't be the first time. A leakdown test will tell you if your valves are still sealing (not bent).Leave a comment:
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so would it be okay to turn the crank clockwise that last bit to get it on the mark?Leave a comment:
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The pulleys on the cam and crank can't be on wrong in relation to their shafts unless their locating pins/keys are missing.Leave a comment:
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I would put the new belt on by lining the marks up (properly) and turn the motor over very gently by hand with no plugs in it to feel for valve contact. If the motor spins freely put it all together and probably enjoy a massive bump in HP.
Your could also do a compression test the way it is now and see if the numbers are wrong indicating bad cam timing. Or bent valves.Leave a comment:
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it cranked and ran, though if it ran like a good m20 or not I couldnt tell you. the car has been parked for at least 5 years with a bad auto transmission. so I threw one on there, fixed the vac leaks and it idled smoothly.
took it for a few test drives before this and it was pretty good. I just couldnt get it to rise above 60 mph quickly.
I assumed it had something to do with cable adjustments.
so should I just do the belt change in the position it is in? would hate to take it back off if its not optimal lol.Leave a comment:
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It's hard to believe it could run with the cam advanced that far and not be having valve to piston contact. But maybe.
How loud did you say it sounded? Did it idle smoothly?
EDIT, looking at your last pic i think it might be only one, maybe two teeth off.Leave a comment:
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