http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Product...s=oil+leak+dye
I bought mine at a local oreilly but inventories can vary
Leaking from valve cover gasket or cam seal, & is this cap fried?
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I've never seen an oil UV dye but I would bet the trans dye would work in motor oil if you were in a pinch but if you can't see what's leaking after cleaning everything off then looking around I doubt the dye will be all that much help, it's probably a matter of just moving stuff out of the way to find the leak.I realize I could replace all nearby seals & gaskets, but my goal is to find the cause so that I can learn if there is a larger problem behind it. Hell, maybe the seal just wasn't installed correctly. It would be a shame to replace it in the same fashion it sits now.
If I find the source, I can say "this is where I did something wrong, now I need to look into what caused it and how to prevent it from happening again."
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Also, the guys at O'Reilly's have never heard of a leak dye "for oil." The store only carries dyes for trans and cooling. What store should I go to and possibly what brand?Leave a comment:
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I realize I could replace all nearby seals & gaskets, but my goal is to find the cause so that I can learn if there is a larger problem behind it. Hell, maybe the seal just wasn't installed correctly. It would be a shame to replace it in the same fashion it sits now.
If I find the source, I can say "this is where I did something wrong, now I need to look into what caused it and how to prevent it from happening again."
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Also, the guys at O'Reilly's have never heard of a leak dye "for oil." The store only carries dyes for trans and cooling. What store should I go to and possibly what brand?Last edited by Chilezen; 06-16-2014, 05:17 PM.Leave a comment:
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if you're doing the cam belt just replace the cam seal. it's not very difficult. loosen the bolt before you remove the timing belt (but don't take it out of course) and torque it back down after you reinstall it.Leave a comment:
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Aye.
Rebuilt engine = everything's already clean. I just can't see behind the cam gear. The dye will therefore be used, thanks.Leave a comment:
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I recommended that leak detection dye cause I've used it. For $6 you will save yourself a lot of fussLeave a comment:
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hot oil runs a long way. Clean everything down with degreaser and see exactly where it's coming from if the front timing cover is filthy.Leave a comment:
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That cap and rotor is TOAST.
Do not re-use the valve cover gasket. It will leak. Just replace it.Leave a comment:
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You're right, I was hoping that wasn't true. Thanks.
I'll look for that, thanks. Has anyone used this before with good results?
My train of thought too. Oil wouldn't(?) reach that far if it were only the valve cover leaking.
I spent $2k on the rebuild, I didn't have much extra to spend on every part of the car. It's a project car, not my daily.
Yes I have the correct plugs (Bosch WLCR or something, don't remember of the top of my head). New cap and rotor are on the way, guess I'll get a new belt and cam seal too.
Can I reuse the valve cover gasket (if I seal it with black RTV)?
Thanks all.Leave a comment:
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Wait you "rebuilt" the engine and did not replace the fuel pump or cap and rotor?
how south of the border was this "rebuild"
did you also re-use the old spark plugs?
CHANGE WEAR ITEMS; otherwise nothing will ever work properly.Leave a comment:
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If the cap is all covered in oil like that, wouldn't it be the front cam seal?Leave a comment:
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Oreilly sells an oil dye that glows under UV. Great way to locate a leak.Leave a comment:
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oil degrades rubber too, so if you are saying the belt is wet, if it's oil drenched and has started to absorb the oil, you really should replace the belt.Leave a comment:
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You are going to have to start pulling things apart to find the source. The timing belt is going to have to be removed regardless of the leak location, so while you don't want to do it, it won't be wasted effort.Leave a comment:

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